A long and painful installation
Whether on foot, horseback or donkey, the Himba followed the rhythm of the seasons, unconcerned with the outside world. The shocks of history, notably their involvement in the war of independence as auxiliaries or trackers with military units, did not upset their tribal structures. For almost thirty years, until the country's independence in March 1990, the Kaokoland region was off-limits on the grounds that it was a "military zone". Today, the Himba population in this region is estimated at between 20,000 and 40,000, depending on the source. They still live essentially in the traditional way, and livestock rearing remains the most common activity. Bartering is still practiced, but money is taking on an increasingly important role in exchanges.
Finally, the rapid development of international tourism in Namibia, with the arrival of large numbers of foreign tourists, is upsetting relations between the Himba and other local communities, as well as their own way of life. Unprecedented problems such as begging and alcoholism are appearing, and a sustained rural exodus is underway in favor of towns and more touristy areas. Severe droughts persist and continue to wreak havoc on livestock. The Himba language is Himba, a Herero dialect.
It is therefore recommended to use a local guide-interpreter to better grasp the richness and complexity of this people who, despite a particularly hostile history and habitat, demonstrate exemplary resilience.
Cattle, treasure of the Himba
The Himba village consists of a group of conical huts built around the cattle pen, the most important asset. The community lives to the rhythm of the movements necessary to graze the animals near water sources. A fire is permanently lit in the village, linking the world of the living to that of the dead. The Himba's daily life revolves around raising livestock, especially cows, for milk, meat, leather and the dung used to build their huts. A symbol of wealth, each family must own a certain number of cows to survive, but also to ensure a respectable social status.
Puberty rituals among himba girls
The Himba, like the Herero, do not observe any collective initiation rites for girls. When a girl starts menstruating, her initiation into adult life takes place within the village. During her period, she is considered impure and must leave the village. On her return, accompanied by another woman, she is taken to the shelter(otjiranda) next to the main hut, where she receives the necessary protection from the spirits during her period of impurity. A festive atmosphere is created by numerous visits from friends and offerings. After a few days, the girl is accompanied before theokuruwo, the sacred fire, where the spirits take note of the change in status of the young woman, now of marriageable age. They are asked to protect the woman until she gives birth to her first child, and beyond.
After the initiation rite, the young woman must plait her hair over the back of her head, rather than forward over her eyes (the plait being the characteristic sign of prepuberty). The shell worn between the breasts signifies that the young woman is old enough to have children.
The Himba are a traditionally polygamous society, and it sometimes happens that the man is with more than eight wives.
Secrets of himba beauty
Himba women's beauty rituals are immutable and rigorous. The beautiful mahogany hue that covers their bodies comes from a red stone (hematite) ground to a fine powder and mixed with cow fat. Women and children alike smear themselves from head to toe (including their hair) with this ochre-red ointment, which makes their skin silky and protects them from the sun and insects.
As for clothing, they wear goatskin skirts, greased beforehand so as not to harden, and perfumed with mopane wood.
Heavy necklaces complete the outfit; when they include a shell, it's a sign of fecundity, indicating that they're of childbearing age. Hairstyles (for both men and women) also have their importance and significance: they evolve as their lives progress. For example, a single braid on a man indicates that he is unmarried, while a young girl will sport small, fine braids worn on the back of her head.
Teeth are not forgotten, for both men and women, four lower incisors for aesthetic reasons.
Himba villages and crafts
Himba villages can be found near Opuwo and Epupa in Kunene. Visits should be made with a guide who speaks the local language, so that you can observe the daily life of this community. Try to learn a few Himba words to facilitate exchanges with your hosts and, in particular, to pick up a few souvenirs. Himba craftsmanship is based on leather and hide work (belts, aprons, wallets), jewelry (bracelets, earrings, copper wire), basketry, pottery, as well as interesting musical instruments and wooden neck-rests. Your local guide-interpreter will be able to advise you on the fair price of products, and negotiate on your behalf to avoid lengthy discussions. Please remember that your spending contributes to their survival.
Read: Rouge himba, travel diary in himba territory
Rouge Himba takes you to the heart of Himba culture. Solenn Bardet, the author of this funny, rich and fascinating graphic novel, knows the Himba well, since she went to live with them twenty years ago, when she was barely of age, and was even adopted by a family. In 2015, she convinced illustrator Simon Hureau to follow her on her next trip to Namibia. Alongside Solenn, Simon Hureau and the reader discover the beauty and strangeness of this country and its inhabitants. Exotic, instructive, magical.
