The Rub' al-Khali
Saudi Arabia is a vast desert terrain, punctuated by a few oases. Its most mythical desert is the Rub' al-Khali, one of the largest deserts in the world and the largest continuous area of sand. It occupies the south of the country, spilling over into Yemen and Oman, the Emirates and Qatar. It conjures up images of camel caravans laden with spices and incense; the hostility of an arid climate; a scenery that changes with the winds and is easy to get lost in. Its 650,000 km² are criss-crossed by golden or glowing sand dunes, some as high as 300 meters. The Rub al-Khali is considered the most inhospitable desert in the world. Temperatures can reach 60°C during the day and -10°C at night. Even the Bedouins rarely venture there. In Arabic, Rub al-Khali means "the empty quarter", and indeed, there is nothing here but sand. Only around twenty plant species have been recorded. A few spiders, scorpions and rodents inhabit the dunes. The Rub' al-Khali is a land for experienced explorers and adventurers with nerves of steel. The first Westerner to cross this desert was Bertram Thomas, a British diplomat and minister to the Sultan of Muscat and Oman in the 1930s. It took him almost a year to complete his adventure, which he recounted in a travelogue entitled Arabia Felix. St John Philby, British spy and eminence grise to Saudi Arabia's first king Ibn Saud, followed in 1932. He was the first to discover the Wabar craters, left by meteorites that are thought to have crashed into the region 140 million years ago. He left an abundance of literature recounting his expeditions and adventures, unfortunately untranslated. British explorer Wilfred Thesiger immersed himself for almost 4 years with the Bedouins of the Rub', between 1946 and 1950. He was the first to attempt to map the region, and recorded his experience in the story The Desert of Deserts. The Rub' al-Khali was not always so hostile and devastated. The once verdant region has dried up over the millennia. The last lake is thought to have disappeared 800 years ago, and some dried-up lakes are still visible. The sands may well have buried Iram, the "City of a Thousand Pillars", which flourished between -3,000 and the 1st century. To visit the Rub' al-Khali today, you need special authorization and to be accompanied by a local guide, as the dangers are numerous and real.
The Nefoud and the desert of ad-Dhana
The Nefoud desert, located between Hail and Sakaka in the north of the country, is an erg: the crescent-shaped "aeolian" dunes are fixed, and only the surface sand moves. The region is regularly swept by violent winds, imprinting strange shapes on the ground. It occupies a large oval depression stretching 250 kilometers wide and 90 kilometers high. Rainfall is highly unpredictable. Between 1998 and 2001, for example, not a single drop of water fell, whereas some years it can rain three times in the same winter. The red sand comes from eroded sandstone deposits. In some areas, traces of fossilized forests can be seen, and a 7,000-year-old elephant skeleton has been found here. On its western flank, on the edge of the Hedjaz mountains, water pours down to grow dates and barley. The Jubbah oasis, at the foot of the black mountain of Umm Senman, is an ideal starting point for exploring the Nefoud.
The ad-Dahna desert is a long ribbon of red sand linking the Rub' al-Khali and Nefoud deserts. Between 40 and 80 kilometers wide, it stretches for 1,000 kilometers in an arc to the east of Riyadh. Rich in iron oxide, it is the reddest of the Saudi deserts. The dunes form beautiful horizontal "veins". To the east of the Saudi capital, on the Summan limestone plateau, a network of underground galleries and cavities has been exploited for millennia by the locals. They use the natural cavities created by rainwater as cisterns. The proximity of the ad-Dhana desert to the capital makes it the busiest desert for Saudis at weekends (Friday and Saturday).
Walking in the desert
A rare experience, desert walking is also demanding. Saudi deserts are ergs, or sand deserts. Although the gradient is relatively moderate, walking on soft sand can be tiring. Good physical condition is therefore imperative. You'll be rewarded with spectacular scenery, brilliant colors and nights of total silence, where all you have to do is reach for the stars. Even if you're bivouacking in comfort, the desert is a unique place to let go of material contingencies, a perfect place to recharge your batteries. The best time to visit is between October and March. Temperatures are milder, but beware: the nights can be biting. It's generally between 20 and 30°C during the day and 0 and 15°C at night, depending on the month and the desert. The Rub al-Khali is warmer than the northern deserts, but the temperature range is also greater. We strongly advise against trekking in summer, between April and September. Travelling with a guide is absolutely essential. He or she knows the desert, knows how to read the landscape and avoid its pitfalls. He also manages all the logistics: bivouacs, meals, water, camel drivers... You need to budget accordingly, at least €200 per day. To beat the heat, it's best to start your trek early in the morning, take a long break for lunch and then walk again at the end of the day. Make sure you bring covering clothing. Desert nomads are accustomed to wearing two layers of clothing to protect them from the sun's aggressions, and also because between the two layers there is a slight movement of air. Remember to hydrate regularly, and if you can, with a hot drink. Evaporation of perspiration gives you a feeling of freshness. Sweating will cause you to lose a lot of mineral salts. The best way to avoid cramps and discomfort due to a lack of salts in the body is to eat very salty foods. Salted dried fruit to nibble on during the day will satisfy your cravings. If you're feeling hot, wet your hat or chèche.
What to put in your bag?
A trip into the desert requires preparation. Don't go out with your nose to the wind, or you'll end up with itchy eyes, itchy throat and burnt skin. You'll soon discover that sand seeps in everywhere, and the more you plan ahead, the more comfortable your expedition will be. The list of specific items to pack is proportional to the number of days. The more time you spend in the desert, the more equipment you'll need. It also depends on your mode of desert transport. Whether you travel by air-conditioned car, on the back of a dromedary or on foot, your needs are not the same. In all cases, you'll need light, covering clothing, a windbreaker, a scarf to cover your head, a pair of sneakers, sunglasses with category 3 or 4 UV protection, a very high SPF sun cream, a small rucksack and plenty of water. If you're planning a trek lasting several days, you'll need full-face anti-UV clothing, as well as special anti-sand shoes, gaiters, anti-UV gloves and walking poles with a special "sand" tip. Protect your belongings with a sand-proof backpack, and put sensitive items in zip-lock freezer bags (camera, phone, nomad charger, documents, etc.). Include in your toiletry bag saline solution for rinsing your eyes, toiletry wipes, blister plasters, a soothing arnica or aloe vera cream and a roll of toilet paper. If you're planning to bivouac for one or more nights, bring warm clothes for the evenings, even a compact down jacket in winter, gloves and a hat.
Bivouac in the desert
If you're going to push open the gates of the desert, you might as well spend the night. You'll be captivated by the bubble of silence that falls over this part of the world, and the pollution-free nights. Stars shine by the billions in an inky black night. Nothing seems to be able to disturb the extreme tranquillity that reigns here, with the exception of the wind, if it decides to blow. The day/night temperature amplitude is high, and if we add to this the fatigue of the day, the cold can quickly become biting as soon as night falls. In the depths of winter, the thermometer can approach 0°C just before daybreak. It's essential to have the right equipment for a truly refreshing night's sleep: a sarcophagus sleeping bag with a comfort temperature down to -5°C, a ground sheet or small self-inflating mattress, good socks, a hat and warm, comfortable clothing. For evenings under the stars, bring a flashlight, a down jacket and a sweater. Pack a garbage bag to collect all your garbage and leave the desert as you found it, immaculate.
Prepare your vehicle well
A 4x4 vehicle is essential for driving in the Saudi desert, whether sandy or stony. Make sure you have plenty of gasoline, at least one jerry can for emergency use and water cans for the radiator. Carry a shovel to remove sand if necessary, and a tow rope. The less electronics your vehicle contains, the easier it will be to repair in the event of a breakdown. When you reach the desert, reduce your tire pressure. This will increase the contact surface between the sand and the vehicle, and improve grip. To avoid getting stuck in the sand, keep your speed constant and drive smoothly. Strong acceleration may cause the wheels to spin and dig a hole under them. Take along a detailed map and a compass to help you stay on course. We strongly advise against setting off alone, especially if you have no experience of driving on sand. Some deserts, such as Rub al-Khali (Empty Quarter), require special authorization. You'll need to provide your detailed itinerary to obtain it.
