The sega
It's hard to find more traditional Mauritian music and dance than sega. Originating with African slaves, who brought drum-based song and dance to the island to alleviate their daily suffering, sega originated in the 19th century. In its traditional form, the genre is known as " segatipik ", and features the island's three emblematic instruments: the ravanne, a wooden drum covered with stretched goatskin; the maravanne, a rectangular instrument made of sugar canes lined up and filled with seeds (it produces a maracas-like sound); and finally a triangle, sometimes simply replaced by two pieces of metal that are struck together. Lyrics are usually about love or everyday life, and are often improvised, like those of traditional blues.
The first great ségatier was Jean-Alphonse Ravaton, alias Ti'Frère (1900 - 1992). A tutelary figure of the genre, he popularized sega beyond Mauritian borders and became a star throughout the Indian Ocean. Iconic to the point where Le Clézio mentions him in his writings, Ti'Frère is the "king of sega", the author of such immortal hits as Roseda and Anita . A close friend of Ti'Frère, Serge Lebrasse (1930-2023) is another great name in sega. His hits Zarina, Sitocontent moi and Bal Bobesse made him the first segatier to tour outside the island.
Another more recent staple of traditional sega, the group Lespri Ravann is famous for placing the ravanne at the heart of its work - a new conception of segatipik. Less "traditional" but just as much focused on the ravane, the sega of Menwar, a charismatic pacifist poet, is highly recommended to anyone wishing to be bewitched by the instrument.
Over time, the sega has been updated to include Western instruments such as the electric guitar, bass, drums and synthesizer. This modern sega has its stars, including the late Roger Clency (sadly deceased in 2016) and the group Cassiya. Founded in December 1992, Cassiya enjoyed dazzling success, even earning the title of "Record of the Year" in 1994. In almost three decades, the group has established itself as the face of modern sega, becoming over time the ambassador of Mauritian music in Europe (and the world). A product of Cassiya, Alain Ramanissum, composer and keyboardist, has become one of the modern emblems of sega.
The 1980s also saw the emergence of a new form derived from sega: seggae. A fusion of reggae and sega, sung in Creole, the genre was born in the hands of the group Racine Tatane. Success was immediate in Mauritius and Reunion, and an icon was born: Joseph Topize, alias Kaya, the lead singer of Racine Tatane. The author of hard-hitting lyrics denouncing corruption and racism, Kaya was a troublemaker. Arrested and imprisoned in 1999 for smoking a joint in public, the artist was found dead in his cell the following morning. This suspicious death sparked riots throughout the country, particularly between the Creole and Hindu communities, and rekindled the open wounds of Mauritian society. Today, following in Kaya's footsteps, The Prophecy is the leading seggae group and by far one of Mauritians' favorite references.
The dance
Sega is also the name of the dance associated with the genre. It's a lascivious dance, performed barefoot, where the dancers brush against each other, rolling their hips but never touching. It's a dance of desire, with African roots and a strong dress code: women wear large multicolored skirts, while men wear puffy shirts and wide pants that stop below the knee.
Away from the island's main tourist areas, at nightfall you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a village still playing its traditional sega around a large wood fire. Or, more easily, you may come across a Mauritian family playing on a Sunday afternoon on the beach. As sega is often the preserve of private parties or family gatherings, it's not so common to hear it played live (except in hotels). That said, a good occasion is the national holiday on March 12, which every year gives rise to numerous shows and, above all, a huge night party, packed to the rafters and featuring the best sega bands around. Fancy fairs, the large Sunday village festivals that often take place in the open air, also invite local singers and musicians to liven up the event. They include their share of sega.
Otherwise, it's always a good idea to check out the Festival International Kréol program, a very popular week-long event featuring many famous local groups. Otherwise, virtually all the major hotels and several bars, such as Twin's Garden Lounge Bar & Restaurant or Kenzi Bar, both in Flic-en-Flac, regularly program sega bands on their stages.
Popular music
Although sega is at the heart of local music, it does not monopolize the entire creative process. That said... it's never far away either... For example, the group Otentikk Street Brothers mixes it with ragga, as does Blakkayo, the stage name of Jean Clario Gateaux, the island's leading dancehall artist, who incorporates the whole Mauritian identity into his tracks. Or David Ramen, the segatier best known for his zouk. But every rule has its exception. And today, one of the best-known Mauritian artists on the international scene is undoubtedly Hans Nayna, a musician who doesn't play sega, preferring soul, blues or rock. Eric Triton is also a key figure in the local blues scene. Travelling and curious, the young Mauritian generation often invites world music into their compositions, like the groups Patyatann and SAODAJ, who offer fusions of sounds from all over the world. As for vocals, the Mauritian scene is very strong here, with a number of inspired singers such as the young Emlyn and Annega, or the renowned Laura Beg and Linzy Bacbotte. As elsewhere, electronic music has also found its feet on the island, driven by the captivating Babani Soundsystem, which fuses it with local music, Matsonic, highly inspired by the Ninja Tune label, and Mo Kolours, an Anglo-Mauritian who blends Mauritian sounds with hip-hop.
One of the island's major musical events is La Isla 2068, which describes itself (and rightly so) as "the benchmark festival for following new talent from the region", and which magnificently showcases young talent. Spread over 2 stages and 5 spaces in the magical setting of the Château de Labourdonnais, this festival is guided by a dream: "to unite a multicultural audience, from Mauritius and beyond, around new Mauritian talent, foreign icons and educational associations". Aside from this latest event, the island is home to a host of other interesting events, including the 100% Mauritian Dombeya Music Festival, the Underground Rock Festival and Mama Jaz, both dedicated to these genres.
