Nicknamed the "tear of India" because of its shape and its proximity to the subcontinent, Sri Lanka concentrates treasures that can satisfy the most demanding travellers. Paradise beaches, mysterious mountains, isolated countryside, archaeological wonders, wildlife, religious footprints, colonial past, myths and legends give this island of 20 million inhabitants a multifaceted face
We land in Colombo, the former capital of the kingdom of Ceylon. Having undergone intense development since independence in 1948, the city retains little evidence of settlers. The monuments of interest are concentrated in the Fort district. If this one has disappeared, you can nevertheless admire the very beautiful Cargills building, the former British garrison transformed into the Grand Oriental Hotel in 1875 or the Dutch hospital that has become a trendy shopping centre. Colombo is full of a pleasant nostalgic scent in the eastern and southern parts of the city, dotted with former colonial villas sheltered under tall coconut and banana trees
Galle la coloniale
True nostalgics of a bygone era meet in Galle, at the southern tip of the island. Its development began in the 16th century, with the arrival of the Portuguese who made it their trading port. At that time, when you say port, you mean strong. So they built the foundations of a vast bastion on a peninsula surrounded by two quiet bays. Almost intact, Galle Fort is now the finest example of colonial architecture in Sri Lanka. It is nice to stroll through its narrow streets lined with beautiful houses sometimes bearing the acronym V.O.C, the East India Company. From the walkway that runs through the wall, the view embraces both the sea and the city's old tiled roofs. The view touches on old Portuguese churches transformed into mosques, the Dutch officers' quarter into a museum, the lighthouse watching over the sailors and Groote Kerk, the oldest Protestant church in the country. There is no doubt that Galle is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because time seems to have stopped there
Dream Beaches
Between Colombo and Galle, there are many opportunities to stop by. The west coast of the island is a succession of golden sandy beaches fringed with coconut trees. Each village has an incalculable number of resorts and guest rooms to satisfy all budgets. The descent from the coast can be done by taking the train, which looks like a child's toy. On the way, a stop in Bentota is a must. For its charming station first of all, which allows you to get to know Geoffrey Bawa, the country's emblematic architect. He has left a legacy of many hotels in Asia, including three exceptional hotels in Bentota. A second step is to be made in Ambalagonda for its Mask Museum. Through this private collection containing rare and ancient pieces, the visitor becomes familiar with the tradition of the mask and its subtleties. Next to the museum, a workshop allows you to observe the craftsmen at work and the shop to buy a unique souvenir
Surfing or hiking?
The more sporty will prefer to meet in Balapitiya for a kayak ride up the Madhu River, which winds its way through beautiful wild coconut groves. Hikkaduwa is another village appreciated for its surf spot and relaxed atmosphere. It is also possible to dive there, to explore underwater caves or shipwrecks. And for those who are attracted by the clean mountain air, Sri Lanka also has a lot to offer. The country is literally folded in its centre by a mountain range whose highest peak rises to 2,524 metres above sea level. Ella is a charming mountain resort where the dampness of the plains dissipates and gives way to cool nights. There are many medium difficulty walks available in the area, from hiking to the top of Ella Rock or Little Adam's Peak, to the health walk along the railway line that crosses tea plantations. A little further north, the extraordinary Horton Plains National Park is the site of a three-hour walk through crisp grass, rainforests and rocks. It is not uncommon to see reindeer grazing in the morning mist. But Sri Lanka's most famous ascent is that of Adam's Peak. This 2,243-metre peak is a holy place for Hindus, Buddhists and Muslims. It attracts thousands of faithful, especially between January and April, who climb the 5,500 night steps to reach the rocky cavity from peak to sunrise. For Hindus, this cavity represents the footprint of Vishnu's foot; for Muslims, Adam's footprint when he fell from the Garden of Eden on earth; Buddhists see it as Buddha's footprint and Christians as Saint Thomas' footprint, the apostle of Christ who came to evangelize Sri Lanka between 52 and 63
Exceptional landscapes
By reaching the centre of the country and the regions of Nuwara Eliya and Kandy, the visitor can only be dazzled by the beauty of the landscapes shaped by the tea culture. The short pruned shrubs planted in regular rows draw coils on the sides of the hills. Ceylon tea has been known worldwide since a Scot introduced the crop in 1850. A visit to a plantation and a processing plant are among the highlights of a trip to Sri Lanka. With the rise of tea cultivation in the centre of the country, the British built a railway line to bring crops back to the capital more quickly. The section between Nuwara Eliya and Kandy is listed as one of the most beautiful in the world. Kandy opens a door to the country's "cultural and spiritual triangle". The city is home to the most sacred temple in the country, the temple of the Tooth. Completed at the end of the 18th century, this beautiful wooden structure contains a Buddha tooth
Archaeological treasures
About 60 kilometres north of Kandy, the mountains are getting softer and the valleys wider. It is in this part that the country's archaeological reservoir is located, witnessing the successive struggles to seize power and the advent of Buddhism on the island. Polonnaruwa is an ancient capital founded in the 11th century. Successive kings built many temples that are still visible today, a palace with only a few traces left and a huge reservoir to irrigate the neighbouring rice fields. Then you must cross Minneriya Giritale National Park, where you can often see hordes of wild elephants in search of water, to reach Sigiriya. In the 5th century, King Kasyapa had an impregnable fortress built on the top of a rocky peak. There are still some beautiful royal gardens, temples and monasteries at the foot of the mountain. This is followed by a flight of 1,232 steps to the top of the rock and the ruins of the palace. From there, there is a 360° view of the thick jungle. The third major site is located northwest of Sigiriya in Anuradhapura. Founded in the 5th century BC, it was the capital of the country for fourteen centuries and the cradle of Buddhism on the island. The many remains of Buddhist monasteries and temples bear witness to this, as do the ruins of ancient palaces or the citadel, now scattered in a pleasant park of greenery
Relaxation in the East
Beyond the cultural triangle, the plain recovers its rights. In the north and east of the island, the region is inhabited by Tamils. At war for 30 years, it is now peaceful. Much less developed than the rest of the country, roads are becoming scarcer, the countryside is denser and the landscapes more wild. Stand proudly in the heart of cities and villages crossed by high Hindu temples with colorful deities. Although this part of the island is of less tourist interest, its coast is nevertheless developing rapidly. The fishing village of Arugam Bay is becoming the destination for trendy surfers when the beaches of Nilaveli and Passikudah host luxury resorts for high-end tourists looking for peace and quiet
Smart info
When? When? Sri Lanka enjoys a tropical climate with abundant rainfall. The West and Central coasts are pleasant in winter, from November to February. On the east coast the sun shines from May to September when the rest of the year is rainy
Getting there. There are no direct flights to Colombo from France. A stopover is essential
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