A botanical paradise, from the mangrove to the high forest
Although two centuries of human presence have obviously condemned many of the species of the primitive forest to rarefaction, or even extinction, the Seychelles' plant cover is nonetheless of major interest, from mangroves and coastal forests to lowland forests and the hygrophilous forests of the summits. Four levels, each with its own precious heritage.
While the great Seychelles mangroves are now to be found on Aldabra, other, less extensive mangroves still exist here and there, notably on Silhouette (in Grand Barbe) and Mahé (between Port Glaud and Port Launay, as well as in Anse Boileau). Few species enjoy this environment, apart from trees generically known as mangroves.
Located beyond the mangroves or directly on the beaches, the coastal forests have obviously evolved since the islands were colonized. Only the La Veuve reserve on La Digue has retained the appearance of the forests of yesteryear. At the end of the 19th century, the painter and traveller Marianne North was astonished that they had been planted as high as 200 m on the slopes. These heights don't frighten the majestic, stocky takamaka, whose trunk can exceed one meter in diameter. Long used for marine carpentry and house building, it was the delight of cabinetmakers until a disease made it an endangered tree a few years ago. It is therefore strictly forbidden to transport takamaka wood.
Other tree species include gayac, badamier and bonnet carré. In addition to the flamboyant, which blooms in November, we should also mention rosewood, whose large yellow flowers are reminiscent of hibiscus, and tablewood, with its silvery leaves. The most common shrub, velvetleaf, helps to fix the sand in the coves, while several creepers brighten up the seashore, such as patatran, whose mauve-pink flowers open in the morning, while those of white patatran bloom at night. Two of these are endemic to the Seychelles: the seaside vacoa, which thrives on rocks, and the rare three-leaf cafoul wood.
As for the so-called low-altitude species, they are spread by birds and even the wind, as the endemics, whose seeds and fruits are larger, are unable to travel. The centipede and leaf lataniers belong to the latter group.
These same heights are home to the rare bois méduse, a small endemic species that reaches 8 m in height. Sandalwood is only found on Silhouette. Ile Aride, on the other hand, is home to bois citron, the archipelago's prettiest flowering shrub. Bois de natte, bois de ronde, bois chandelle, bois calou and bois cuillère are more common.
The glacis are also home to the brown vacoa, whose stilt roots can reach 10 m, and the river vacoa.
Among the abundantly naturalized trees are the calice du pape, with its pale pink flowers, and filao, used to build Creole houses and model ships. Mahogany has also enjoyed considerable success in forestry. It grows at higher altitudes, around 300 to 400 m. The most common is redwood mahogany.
Under mixed deciduous-palm forests, you'll find some rather unpleasant herbaceous species, such as the brown coco, with its thorny petiole, or the little brown coco, which gives off a nauseating odor. It's better to remember the vertical smile of the coco de mer, which has made the Mai Valley one of the most precious nature reserves on the planet. Five species of palm, three of vacoas and many other wonders grow freely in this fascinating plant cathedral.
Another type of vegetation covers the ridges between 600 and 900 m, where the albizzia rises so proudly, spectacular with its immense spreading branches, serrated foliage, silvery trunk and highly fragrant honey-scented flowers. This remarkable tree only grows on mountainsides in a humid environment, the most typical hygrophilous formation being that of the Morne Seychellois capuchin forest, where ferns abound. Another curiosity is the latanier hauban, a miniature palm tree that is often only 5 cm in diameter and scarcely more than 2 m high.
Bright flowers
If you're looking for flowers, stroll through public gardens and courtyards. You'll see frangipani, bougainvillea and hibiscus. The most famous plants of the tropical world display their colors in multiple shades, with exotic orchids also successfully cultivated. Coco and pigeon orchids have even adapted so well here that they now grow wild. A number of ornamental trees also inspire wonder, such as the creamy-white flowers of the reseda (Seychelles' name for henna), which give off a raspberry fragrance. The most imposing is without doubt the sandragon, which can reach 25 m in height and whose trunk sometimes exceeds 1.50 m in diameter. Along the roadsides, you can still marvel at the banyans and their aerial roots.
The fruit tree heritage is also particularly varied. There are around fifteen varieties of banana alone. The mango tree is equally rich. Papaya trees are also widely cultivated. Breadfruit and jackfruit are planted close to houses, but their fruit is only used in cooking. As for jamalacs and Cytherean fruits, they make exquisite jams. Some species only exist in their naturalized state. Such is the case of the guava, whose tart fruit is delicious, and the cashew. But exoticism is also synonymous with spices. Acclimatized as early as 1772 in the King's garden on Mahé, cinnamon was spread by fruiting birds. Initially exploited for its essence, the cinnamon tree is now exploited for its bark, from which cinnamon powder or sticks are made. In addition to the clove and pepper trees, we should mention the cacao, coffee and tea trees. As for the famous vanilla, it still exists in many forests in a subspontaneous state. These pods end up in kitchens as fragrant souvenirs of an exotic stay in these paradise islands.
On the wildlife side, the archipelago of turtles
The French explorers and settlers who named these places had hunted the tortoise so extensively, for its meat and shell, that it could have become extinct if this mass extermination had not fortunately been stopped in time by the authorities.
Today, however, you have to have the immense privilege of setting foot on Aldabra, 1,100 km from Mahé, to come across them in the wild, as in the Galapagos Islands. But everywhere, around one hundred and fifty thousand turtles live side by side. When fully grown, Testuda gigantea can weigh up to 500 kg, measure 1.50 m in length and have an exceptional longevity, some exceeding one hundred and fifty years. On most islands, a few turtles can be seen, usually in enclosures, or at best in supervised freedom, as on Frégate. Sea turtles, once hunted as well, are few and far between. The two most common varieties, the hawksbill and tortoiseshell, enjoy the shores of Aldabra, where they dig 50 cm holes in the sand to lay several hundred eggs overnight and return to the sea. A few weeks later, when the baby turtles leave the holes, many of them serve as meals for crabs and birds... Only a few survivors reach the ocean, where other predators in turn play a regulating role. It is estimated that out of 500 eggs, only around 20 will give rise to an adult turtle, i.e. 1 to 1.30 m long, depending on the species, and weighing around 300 kg.
A birdwatcher's paradise
Whether on land or in the sea, the turtle is protected by the State. It even has the honor of appearing, under a coconut tree, on the Seychelles emblem, which also features the swordfish, representing the marine fauna, and the straw-tailed turtle, representing that of the sky. Recognizable by its white plumage with black wing stripes, powerful yellow beak and long, forked tail, the paille-en-queue nests on the ground all year round. Rock holes are also home to frigatebirds, whose wingspan sometimes reaches 2 m, and whose long forked tail makes them easy to spot close to shore.
Slender and graceful, the tern is another of the archipelago's emblematic birds (Air Seychelles has made it its logo). This bird lives along the beaches, nesting in the filaos. The most common species is the white gull. It has a very tapered beak and black eyes, but there are also dark-colored terns, as well as a sardine gull and a badamary gull, which contribute to making the Seychelles skies a soothing spectacle. This is enhanced by Dutch pigeons, one of which has a dazzling red crest, and turtle doves, the most common of which is the turtle dove, with its blue-gray head and black-striped beige body. A very familiar sight, it is a frequent visitor to restaurant terraces. The inevitable sparrow, the glowing cardinal and the ubiquitous kingbird, reminiscent of our European robin, also feast here at mealtimes. The shy lady sparrow, meanwhile, has colonized Victoria's bazaar. The archipelago also has its rare birds: the black parrot of the Vallée de Mai, the song magpie of Frégate and Aride, the toc-toc of Cousin, the banana bird of Mahé and, without doubt, the most elegant, the Seychelles widow. The latter boasts an interminable tail split in two, giving the impression that it's wearing a tailcoat! But this endemic species now numbers only a few dozen individuals on La Digue, in the reserve known as "La Veuve". Picture hunters may have a hard time getting this bird into their box, but they have no trouble freezing terns, gannets, frigate birds, puffins, phaetons and others on film - especially if they choose to visit Cousin or the aptly named Bird Island in May. At this time, several million seabirds, grouped by race, nest on these islands, which have become an extraordinary aviary. A fascinating spectacle..
Among reptiles, we must mention the gecko and, among insects, the orthopterans or leaf flies that blend in with the leaves of the trees. Finally, we can't mention the local fauna without mentioning the largest of the bats, the famous fruit bat.
