General climate
The climate in Kerala is moderate and pleasant all year round, with hot weather in the plains and along the coast, while temperatures can be cool in the mountainous regions, especially at night. However, there are four main seasons, the dates of which vary according to the monsoons: winter, from November to February; summer, from March to the end of May; and two rainy seasons, the southwest monsoon from early June to late September, and the northeast monsoon from October to November.
Winter. Winter sets in after the retreat of the northeast monsoon, usually around the beginning of November, and lasts until the end of February. Temperatures become milder and very pleasant, between 28° and 18° along the coast and in the plains, and between 25° and 10° in the Western Ghats. This is also the period when humidity levels are lowest. Days are generally sunny, and rainfall is low (only 25 mm on average). Winter is therefore the ideal time to visit Kerala, and coincides with the peak tourist season. The peak season is between mid-December and mid-January, and it is strongly recommended to book accommodation in advance for the most popular destinations. Logically, this is also the period when hoteliers charge their highest rates. From mid-February, temperatures begin to rise until summer arrives.
Summer. In March, the thermometer rises and humidity levels begin to rise. From April to May, the climate is hot and humid, with temperatures reaching 36°. Yet it's much cooler than in the rest of the country, as Kerala is protected from the hot northern winds by the natural barrier of the Western Ghats, and benefits from cooling breezes thanks to its proximity to the Arabian Sea. Caution is advised, as since 2015, record-breaking heat waves have regularly been recorded at this time of year, with the same dangers as the heatwaves we experience in France. Staying in the sun for long periods can prove fatal, and the coolness of the Western Ghats is the only alternative to the heat along the coasts and plains. Rain is rare, but thunderstorms do occur, usually accompanied by lightning and thunder. Power cuts are also frequent at this time of year. Rivers and streams dry up, and water shortages can even affect certain areas of the state. This is a busy season, with everyone working. The arrival of the south-west monsoon in June, along with the vacations, is a real relief for most of the population.
Edavappathy: the south-west monsoon. This monsoon arrives in the first week of June. It is called Edavappathy in Kerala, because it arrives in the middle of the month of Edavam in the Malayalam calendar. This period accounts for 85% of Kerala's annual rainfall. One long rainy day follows another, and the state slows down. Heavy rains, overflowing rivers and streams, storms that sweep away everything in their path, floods and landslides are all factors that drastically alter daily life. Transport is also greatly affected. For the traveler, this season is not ideal and can even be dangerous, even on the beaches. And yet, it's not without interest: nature is in full bloom, and it's fascinating to see the white-clad locals strolling through the torrential downpours, armed only with a small umbrella, and yet remaining completely dry and clean! This is the season when the waterfalls are at their most spectacular. From September onwards, rainfall is less intense, but still relatively consistent.
Thulavarsham: the north-east monsoon. The second monsoon, known locally as Thulavarsham, begins in October and ends in late November. Partially slowed by the Western Ghats mountain range, this monsoon is born of the return of the south-west monsoon winds. It is much less severe than Edavapatthy and does not really affect travellers' stay. Days are often sunny, with sporadic heavy showers accompanied by thunderstorms, usually in the late afternoon or early evening.
Potential natural hazards
Kerala is subject to a number of natural hazards: torrential rains, floods, landslides, coastal erosion, tsunamis... Rest assured, however, that natural disasters occur only in extremely rare cases, and Kerala remains a safe destination.
Tsunami 2004. On December 26 2004, Kerala was hit by the Indian Ocean tsunami. Despite the fact that its coastline was on the opposite side of the wave's origin, the state was nevertheless badly hit, particularly in the districts of Ernakulam (Kochi), Alappuzha and Kollam. The wave devastated almost 200 villages, completely destroying over 6,000 homes, damaging more than 11,000, and forcing the evacuation of almost 85,000 people. The toll is devastating: the tsunami claims 176 lives and injures 1,600 along the coast, seriously affecting the lives of more than 250,000 people.
Exceptional monsoon in 2018. Everyone remembers the tragic events of August 2018: exceptional rainfall, coupled with poor dam management by the authorities, led to the worst floods in Kerala since those of 1924. By August 9, 2018, the state was experiencing rainfall 75% higher than average for the period, the Western Ghats dams were at maximum retention capacity and the authorities had no choice but to open the floodgates and release the water... The rivers overflowed their banks, flooding the surrounding area, and numerous landslides occurred. The toll was heavy: more than a million people were displaced and almost 500 perished. An enormous solidarity movement, at regional, national and international level, enabled the victims to be helped quickly and the affected areas to be rebuilt in record time. Rest assured, rainfall of this intensity is exceptional and normally only occurs once a decade..
Floods of 2019. From August 9 to 29, Kerala was again hit by large-scale flooding due to heavy monsoon rains. Warmed by the dramatic experience of the previous year, this time the government takes preventive measures and evacuates thousands of people from at-risk areas to relief camps in safe regions. Even so, the floods claimed over a hundred lives.
Floods of 2020. For the third year running, a heavy monsoon hits Kerala, and in August, five districts are flooded: Idukki, Wayanad, Malappuram, Thrissur and Kottayam. A landslide in Idukki claimed the lives of 66 people, and an Air India plane from Dubai crashed on the flooded runway after two failed landing attempts, killing 21 people including the two pilots.
