From the airport to the city centre India
India is a huge country with several international airports served from Europe, including New Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Bengalore. To get from Delhi's Indira Ghandi airport to the city center (23 km), you can take a prepaid cab (office in the terminal), a comfortable bus (every 30 minutes) or the orange metro line (ticket machine in the terminal). Similarly, from the Chhatrapati Shivaji airport to central Mumbai, you can take a prepaid cab; choose the company with the longest queue - it's the best!
Arrival by train India
Delhi has 8 main railway stations. It's worth identifying them on a map and selecting a stop or two before the terminus, depending on where you're going in Delhi. For example, it's better to get off at Delhi Cantt (provided your train passes through there) if you're going to the airport, rather than going all the way to the city center and back.
If you arrive in Mumbai by train, you'll be passing through the city's magnificent Chhatrapati Shivaji station, a World Heritage Site and an exceptional cathedral station where the final scene of Slumdog Millionaire was filmed.
All major railway stations are generally crowded. You have to step over people sleeping on the floor while waiting for their train, slaloming between porters and bundles of goods on the platforms. You'll always find toilets, food (restaurant or snack bar) and waiting rooms.
The rail network is efficient throughout the country. Train travel is very economical, but the carriages are usually full to bursting. There are several classes, and booking a ticket takes some practice, as the system seems obscure at first glance.
The Indian rail network
India's rail network is the second largest in the world, serving virtually every region of the country. Far less expensive than air travel, the train is often the best solution for covering long distances. This is less true for short distances, as only the major cities have well-serviced stations. And don't forget the journey time: you need to allow for an average speed of 50 km/h, if the train doesn't stop for hours at a station or in open country for no apparent reason. In most cases, it's a matter of waiting for a train coming in the opposite direction. The rail network is not double-tracked everywhere. Travelling at night means you can "save" a day's vacation if you're short of time, especially as the train is quite comfortable. How the network works, the different train categories and the class system may seem confusing at first.
The different comfort classes: there are 5 different classes. Not all trains offer these five different levels of comfort. It depends on the distance travelled and whether they are sleeper or seat trains.
For sleeper trains, the different classes are : 1AC (AC First Class) - 1st class with air-conditioning (closed compartments with 2 or 4 berths); 2AC (AC 2 Tier) -2nd class with air-conditioning (open compartments with 4 berths + 2 on the other side of the gangway) ; 3AC (AC 3 Tier) -3rd class with air-conditioning (open compartments with 6 berths + 2 on the other side of the gangway); Sleeper Class (SL) - identical to 3AC, but without air-conditioning, with simple ceiling fans; General Car or Chair Car - benches or seats for people traveling without reservations.
For trains with seats, there are three different categories: CC (AC Chair Car), air-conditioned cars with reclining seats; 2S (Second Sitting), non-air-conditioned cars with fans; General Car or Chair Car, benches or seats for people traveling without a reservation.
If you're traveling by night train, sheets, pillows and blankets are provided from classes 3AC to 1AC. If you don't like promiscuity, you can travel in 2AC or 1AC, which are more expensive but more comfortable and secure. The carriages are locked at night, making it impossible for wine merchants to climb up the gangways. Travelers on a budget will opt for sleeper class, especially in winter when it's not so hot. Why pay extra for air conditioning, which is useless at this time of year?
The seat you've reserved may already be occupied when you board the train. It's usually someone who hasn't made a reservation and who is taking over a free space. Kindly reclaim your seat. Similarly, the middle berth is often folded down during the day. If you occupy the lower or middle berth and wish to lie down, kindly let the people traveling with you know.
Fares
In India, the train is a really low-cost way of getting around. Fares are proportional to the distance traveled and the class chosen. The longer your journey, the lower the price/km ratio. Expect to pay around Rs 350 for 500 kilometers in sleeper and express class, Rs 880 in 3AC, Rs 1,200 in 2AC and Rs 2,000 in 1AC.
Buying your ticket
There are two distinct ticket offices, depending on whether you wish to book or buy a ticket for immediate departure. For immediate departures, the ticket offices are usually located in the departure hall. You'll often have to queue. In theory, there's a counter reserved for women. If this isn't the case, and you're a woman and don't want to queue with a bunch of men, go up any queue and make your mark. It often takes some elbowing, but it works. A ticket bought without a reservation is only valid on the day it is issued. In some major stations, where traffic is dense, queues can be very long. Don't show up at the last minute. For short distances, there's no need to book in advance. Buy your ticket for the destination at the ticket office and climb into any carriage. The ticket inspector will charge you the difference between an ordinary ticket and your chosen class and assign you a seat.
Booking your ticket
You can book your ticket at the station ticket office, on the Internet or through a local agency. Reservations open 3 months before train departure. Seats on overnight and long-distance trains can sell out very quickly, especially in high season. It's best to book well in advance.
If you go to the ticket office , you'll need to fill in a form indicating your identity, age, train name and number, departure station and arrival station. There's also a handy website where you can get all the train information you need in just a few clicks: www.erail.in. Enter your point of departure and destination, choose the date and the site will show you all the trains with their days of operation. You'll also get the fare (move your mouse over the desired class) and the number of seats remaining (click on the desired class). Stations in major cities sometimes have a booking office for foreign tourists. To get a seat on the tourist quota, you'll need to show your passport. There's no point queuing if you haven't filled in your form. To obtain it, go back up the line and ask for it at the counter, then queue.
You can book online at www.indianrail.gov.in. The procedure is long and complex, but not insurmountable. You will, however, need an Indian telephone number. As when booking at the ticket office, make sure you have all your train details to hand. You'll also need to choose the quota under which you're traveling. Choose General or Tourist. Don't forget to print out your ticket.
If you go through an agency, you won't have to do anything, but you'll pay a bit more. This usually takes about an hour, as the agency will collect your ticket from the station.
Good to know
Waiting list: Indian Railways practices overbooking. Many cancellations occur just a few days or a few hours before departure. You can reserve a ticket by placing yourself on the waiting list. Up to the 25th seat, you take little risk. You can check the status of your reservation on the Indian Railways website (www.indianrail.gov.in). Choose the PNR Status tab and enter your booking reference. You're guaranteed a place on board as soon as your reservation status changes to RAC (Reservation Against Cancellation). The definitive list of reservation status is drawn up two hours before the train's departure. It is displayed in the station. If you are in RAC status, contact the ticket inspector, who will assign you a seat. If you have a confirmed seat, join the car and the seat number obtained. If you don't have a seat, you can get your money back at the station ticket office, before the train departs.
Tatkal tickets: if you haven't been able to book a train in time, or the waiting list is too long, nothing is lost. You can book a Tatkal ticket (which means "immediate" in Hindi), the day before the train's departure (be sure to check the departure time from the original station). Indian Railways keeps a quota of last-minute tickets. Prices are obviously much higher than for a normal ticket. Tatkal tickets are only available from 10 a.m. onwards.
Public transport India
India's major cities are plagued by monumental traffic jams. Public transport is generally slow and crowded. Only the metros (Delhi, Calcutta, Jaipur, Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad) are fast, as are a few streetcar or express train lines. Comfortable buses serve the country well, at fares equivalent to2nd-class rail. But roads are dangerous, and trains remain a better option for longer journeys.
Bike, scooters & co India
You can always try cycling, but it takes a lot of practice and attention! At least in town. In the countryside, this can be a pleasant way to get around. For decades, the bicycle was the preferred means of transport in India, but now it's being replaced by the motorcycle and scooter, which are far less tiring. The bicycle is now the means of locomotion for poor people.
Motorcycles. Few people bring their own motorcycle to visit India, but many buy one on the spot to travel more freely. That said, it's best to be an experienced biker, as driving in India is, if not reckless, at least adventurous. If you're cautious, a motorcycle remains a good option for discovering unexplored corners and getting away from the tourist circuits. For a second-hand 350 cm3, expect to pay between Rs 18,000 and Rs 40,000 (€270 to €600), compared with an average of Rs 50,000 for a 500 cm3 (€750). You can also organize your trip through an agency specializing in motorcycle tours. You'll have the chance to ride the famous Royal Enfield.
Scooters. Very practical for getting around town or covering short distances, if and only if you're experienced and careful. It would be very unwise to try your first two-wheeled experience in India. In any case, be vigilant and keep your eyes peeled! Rental companies rarely supply scooters in good condition. Always check the braking system before setting off into the wind. Expect to pay between Rs 250 and Rs 500 per day, depending on the location.
Cycling. Cycling is very pleasant in small towns and rural areas (where it's a pleasant alternative to auto-rickshaws)... but almost suicidal in the big cities, where people drive "on the horn". Bicycles can be hired in hotels, small stores in tourist areas and, in general, in most tourist spots (from Rs. 50 to Rs. 200 per day). Make sure the bike is in good condition and has a lock. Also make sure that the brakes are working.
With a driver India
You can't escape the rickshaw, the motorized taxi-tricycle that criss-crosses the cities day and night with great skill. It's an economical and practical way to cover the "last mile". Even in big cities, you can take the metro, then the rickshaw to complete your journey.
A chauffeur-driven car is the best way to get around India and discover the country. You can enjoy the scenery, stop whenever you like, meet the locals and take colorful photos.
Cabs. As a rule, cab drivers refuse to put their meters on. So you'll have to negotiate the price before you get in (allow around 10 Rs per kilometer). In fact, cabs are only available in very large cities, so most of the time you'll be dealing with auto-rickshaws.
Auto-rickshaws. You'll notice auto-rickshaws from a distance, thanks to their yellow, green, black or blue bodywork (depending on the city) and their characteristic backfiring. The meter is virtually unknown. Expect to pay Rs 20 for 2 km, but rates vary considerably from city to city. Manyauto-rickshaw drivers will try to lead you into hotels or stores that pay them commission. They will often tell you that your guesthouse no longer exists or is fully booked: this is systematically false. It's unfortunate to say, but never believe anauto-rickshaw driver... On the other hand, never let the driver take one of his friends with him - it's never a good sign. Bicycle rickshaws are much more discreet and environmentally friendly, and their brave drivers are generally much more honest. Count on Rs 10 per kilometer.
Meters. Whether in a cab or an auto-rickshaw, if you're lucky enough to have a meter, you're not out of the woods yet. Because of galloping inflation, drivers can't afford to change their meters every year, so they have a little sheet that allows them to update the amount displayed. Always ask to check it and see how it works before you set off, otherwise you'll soon find yourself with four times the amount shown on the meter!
Jeep-taxi. This is a very common means of transport in the mountains, and therefore in Himalayan regions. Ten-seater jeeps regularly leave the bus stations when they are full. It's a little more expensive than the bus (20% more on average), but more practical and much faster.
Tips. A driver or guide who has spent a day at your service will be very grateful for an extra Rs 200.
By car India
It is not advisable to travel by car in India. It's not even certain that rental companies are willing to entrust you with a vehicle from their fleet. Traffic regulations are almost non-existent, conditions in the cities are nightmarish and you won't be able to park your vehicle.
Accessibility India
In India, access to urban transport is rarely adapted for people with reduced mobility. As for sidewalks, they are not very safe and often difficult to negotiate, even for people without disabilities. However, there are reserved spaces in the metro.
Tourist traps India
India is a poor country, and scams abound. Anything is possible to make a sale or increase your income. Be vigilant, but not paranoid. When you arrive at the airport or train station, you'll have to fight off touts for cabs and rickshaws. They will always try to take you to a hotel that is not the one you have chosen. You have to be firm and show no hesitation. At main railway stations and airports, there is almost always a "pre-paid" counter where you can pay your fare and be assigned a cab.
Never get into a cab or auto-rickshaw without first negotiating the fare! Many of them inflate their fares at the sight of tourists.
Tip: download the Ola and Uber apps, which allow you to book a ride by car or auto-rickshaw. Even if you don't book on the app, it will give you a clear idea of the official fare!
