From the first expeditions to the democratization
On June 3, 1950, Frenchmen Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal reached the summit of Annapurna. Three years later, Edmund Hillary (New Zealand) and Sherpa Tensing Norgay reached the summit of Everest. These two feats ushered in the period of national expeditions, largely financed by governments, and the main Himalayan peaks were conquered within a dozen years. From the 1980s onwards, the routes became more technical, the equipment lighter, and over the past two decades, exploits in extreme conditions have multiplied, often with media coverage. At the same time, high-mountain trekking has become more democratic, often combining the pleasures of hiking with those of mountaineering.
The main treks
The best-known treks are organized around two main tourist routes: Annapurna and Mustang to the west, and Everest to the east.
The Annapurna tour. With over 350 km to cover in a minimum of 16 days, the Annapurna tour is the archetype of the great trek. In addition to the four peaks that crown Annapurna, the trek offers impressive views of Manaslu, Dhaulagiri and a myriad of other peaks. On the other hand, this mythical trek is very busy, so you won't be alone on the trail! The route can be shortened to 14 days by stopping at Jomson and taking the bus to Pokhara.
Everest. Anyone who is tenacious and motivated can circumnavigate Everest and contemplate the roof of the world at 8,848 m, and countless prestigious peaks: Pumori, Ama-Dablam, Lhotse, Thamserku or Nupse. All along the valley, this hike introduces you to Sherpa country and its courageous, laughing people. Called Chomolungma in Tibetan and Sagarmatha in Nepali, the world's highest mountain is named, for our atlases, after an obscure 19th-century English civil servant. Georges Everest was not the discoverer of the mountain that bears his name; an atlas of China produced in the 18th century under the direction of French Jesuits already mentioned the mountain and correctly indicated its Tibetan name. As with the Annapurna tour, this trek is very popular, so expect to meet plenty of other trekkers. Depending on the option, this route takes from 8 to 13 days. There are, of course, many other ways of approaching or even climbing Everest, including the Jiri approach or the ascent to base camp with a hike around the Gokyo lakes.
Mustang. Located 80 km north of Annapurna, Mustang is a Tibetan enclave in Nepalese territory. The region was brought to public attention in 1964 by Michel Peissel in his bestseller Mustang, royaume interdit. Long inaccessible, this valley is a Himalayan paradise where people still live out of time. With its red cliffs tumbling dramatically into canyons, troglodytic cities, fairy chimneys and demon traps, this ancient kingdom holds surprises worthy of its reputation. Modernization, however, is making its appearance.
The more confidential treks
Dominated by Langtang Lirung (7,234 m), the mountain range to the north of the Kathmandu valley comprises two valleys. Both are ideal for trekking, and can be completed in as little as a week. To the north, the Langtang valley is a glacial valley. To the southeast, Helambu is a Sherpa-populated pocket that abuts the Jugal Himal Mountains. Two main passes link the Langtang and Helambu valleys, from April to November. The glacial lakes of the Gosaikund, a Shiva pilgrimage site on the full moon in August, end at 4,640 m with the Surjakund pass to Tarkegyang.
The Langtang Highlands trek. This is one of the most beautiful treks in Nepal. In terms of views, it offers no less than 400 km of massifs, from the Annapurnas to the Gaurishankar. Just a 4-hour drive from Kathmandu, it's a real immersion like few other Nepalese treks offer.
The Naar Phu/Thorong La valley trek. This is the "new Annapurna Tour". A little more challenging than the classic tour, it is of major cultural interest.
Mardi Himal Base Camp. This is a week-long trek departing from Pokhara. Sumptuous and accessible to all, it is a trek in the making, entirely in lodges, which could become the future Balcony of the Annapurnas.
The Panauti mandala. This is a beautiful 8-day trek from village to village in the Kathmandu valley, in the Panauti / Namo Buddha / Bhaktapur / Godawari sector. With beautiful views of the Himalayas and many typical villages, this is an itinerary accessible to all, and a clear example of solidarity, as we donate Rs. 1,500 per day per person to the schools we meet and to a local association.
Some agencies also offer treks to discover other facets of Nepal. For example, the "Hidden Treasures of Nepal" tour comprises 3 mini-treks: ChepangHills, Chitwan on foot (not by elephant or jeep), and the hills above Pokhara. Or hike in Shivapuri National Park.
Some practical advice
The ideal seasons to visit Nepal, and in particular to enjoy unobstructed views of the Himalayas, are the mid-seasons: mid-March to May (for the rhododendron blossom) and October to November (for the autumn light). But these periods are the busiest, and even more so in autumn than in spring.
To choose the right trek, you need to ensure that its level of difficulty is compatible with your level of fitness and training. To each his own trek! When it comes to organization, in principle all options are possible: hire a local guide or a guide-porter without going through an agency, or ask an agency to recommend a classic or less common itinerary.
Important : since March 2023, a guide is compulsory for all treks in Nepal.
The ethics of the trek
The heavy use of the mountains in high season brings its share of problems to Nepal. The most obvious is the lack of respect for nature: it's not uncommon to see trails littered with garbage, and we can only remind you that it's essential not to leave your garbage behind. You can even go so far as to encourage other trekkers and even guides and porters to do the same. You may also see porters climbing the trails, overloaded and ill-equipped. This source of work, which enables mountain dwellers to make a better living, sometimes puts them under pressure from agencies. We can only recommend that you take care to respect both the sites and the local populations, and choose your trekking agency accordingly.
Choose your trekking agency
There are hundreds of trekking agencies officially recognized by the Nepalese authorities, ranging from the very serious to the not-so-serious. It's advisable to choose a correspondent who speaks your language. It's also a good idea to check the experience of the Sirdars (Nepalese guides), and whether they work with the agency on a permanent basis or are seasonal freelancers. You should also check the quantity of equipment available. Don't hesitate to discuss the itinerary, difficulties, accommodation conditions and other organizational points with the agency and your guide several times, in particular the remuneration of porters and the price of accommodation. When it comes to choosing an agency, "word of mouth" is a good solution: don't hesitate to contact people who have done one or more treks, to get their opinion of the agency they worked with. In this guide, you'll find a list of French-speaking establishments recommended for their reliability.
Formalities: TIMS, trekking permit and park entrance fees
Individual trekkers should allow at least two working days in Kathmandu for formalities (trekking permits for certain areas, payment of park entrance fees, confirmation of flight tickets, etc.). Remember to bring a sufficient number of passport-size photographs.
TIMS card. Since January1, 2008, all trekkers, whether traveling alone or with an agency, must carry a Trekkers' Information Management System (TIMS) card. This compulsory card costs US$20 (or US$10 if you travel through your own agency) and can be obtained from the ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit) office in Tridevi Marg (Thamel, Kathmandu) or Pokhara. It can also be purchased at chek-point offices. TIMS is a system that manages databases of trekkers in different parts of the country (nationality, passport number, insurance details, etc.).
Trekking permits. A trekking permit is no longer required for the most popular treks (Everest Base Camp, Gokyo Valley, Annapurna Tour and Langtang region). On the other hand, for areas designated as Restricted Areas (Manalu, Naarphu, Mustang, Dolpo, Humla, Jumla, Kanchen Junga), a special permit is required and will only be obtained if requested by an official trekking agency.
Permits for mountaineers. Mountaineers must also pay for a special permit for summit treks. There are currently thirty-three trekking peaks managed by the NMA (Nepali Mountaineering Association). Permit prices are high and vary according to group size and site.
National park entrance fees. Some trekking circuits located in Conservation Areas require an access permit.
Insurance. It is advisable to study carefully the repatriation insurance contract generally sold with airline tickets, to check whether it includes mountain rescue and any helicopter charter costs (which is generally not the case). If this is the case, remember to take out additional insurance for the duration of your stay: mountain rescue is very expensive indeed.
Luggage. You can decide to carry everything yourself or hire porters. To be on the safe side, unless you're doing some exceptional training, it's best to limit your load and choose a comfortable backpack.
