From the airport to the city centre Nepal

In Nepal. The first thing you have to do when you get off the plane is obtain your visa. There are two possibilities: either you go to one of the electronic machines that issue a visa number, which you then present to the visa department for payment (just before the immigration counters), and you arm yourself with patience, as this can sometimes take a little time; or (and we strongly advise this) you go directly to the payment counter with your form previously filled in online.nepalimmigration.gov.np, presenting the receipt with the barcode. Please note: you must complete this form no later than 15 days before your arrival in Nepal (the form is no longer valid). In both cases, you'll need to bring a passport photo and cash, preferably in dollars (15 days: US$35; 30 days: US$55; 45 days: US$135).

The airport is less than 10 km from downtown Kathmandu. To get there, prefer cabs to buses (irregular and inconvenient). Head for the fixed-price prepaid cab counter (exit immediately on the right): count Rs. 700 to Thamel (between 20 and 40 min.) depending on the timetable too, Rs. 800 to Patan and Rs. 1,200 to Bhaktapur if you arrive during the day. You can also buy a local sim and get around more cheaply via the Pathao smartphone app, equivalent to a local Uber, with small cars that aren't always very new.
To get around Nepal, given the terrain and the state of the roads, it would seem wiser to opt for air travel outside the Kathmandu Valley, which consists of the imperial cities of Patan and Bakhtapur, located very close to the capital. But if you want to go further afield, the country has an excellent domestic air network, and flights are not expensive. As flights are not always on time, you should allow at least half a day between connections. The airport has a domestic terminal 10 minutes' walk from the international one. The two are not interconnected, so make sure your cab drops you off at the right place. The three main domestic airlines are : Nepal Airlines, Buddha Air and Yeti Airlines.

Bhutan. You can't disembark in Bhutan without a visa. You need to apply for one at least 15 days before departure (but the sooner the better), either through an authorized Bhutanese tour operator, or - and this is completely new - online on the official website. Since 2023, you are no longer obliged to go through an agency to visit Bhutan, and you can pay for your visa separately from meals, sightseeing and transport, whereas previously only all-inclusive packages existed. In most cases, you'll arrive by air at Paro International Airport, after a vertiginous landing amidst the Himalayan peaks. Druk Air (national airline) and Bhutan Airlines (private airline) are the only two airlines authorized to fly in Bhutan. Please note that flights are dependent on weather conditions. Avoid short connections, especially on the return flight. As flights are few and far between, it's best to plan your trip well in advance.

Arrival by train Nepal

There are no trains in Nepal. The only rail link is between Janakpur and Jaynagar in India. A picturesque way to discover the Terai countryside and cross the Indian border.

Public transport Nepal

In Nepal. For those wishing to return to Nepal by land, direct buses run from Sunauli on the Indian border to Kathmandu and Pokhara. Generally speaking, buses are Nepal's main mode of public transport. As cheap as they are uncomfortable, they serve just about every destination and stop on demand. In other words, the journey can be long, subject to the vagaries of the road (breakdowns, punctures...) and regular stops. There are two types of bus in Nepal: "local" buses, which are often slow and crowded, and the more comfortable and faster "Tourist buses", which provide long-distance travel between Chitwan, Pokhara and Kathmandu.

In Kathmandu, you can use the blue minibuses, which are faster than buses and cheaper than cabs. They take around 20 people on board and have a specific route. To get on, stand on the road and when a bus approaches, wave to the driver who shouts the name of your destination out of the window. When you're inside, bring small bills to pay the fare. And if you want to get off, make your presence known!
There's also the tempo, a small, eco-friendly three-wheeled vehicle (electric or gas-powered) that works like a cab, but is more economical, as it travels along a given route.

In Bhutan. You can enter Bhutan from the Indian border by bus, via the three border posts located along Bhutan's southern border: Phuentsholing, Gelephu and Samdrup Jongkhar. A guide will be on hand to help you obtain your Bhutanese visa at the immigration checkpoint. The national company Bhutan Transport Services offers buses from India to Phuentsholing. From Siliguri, there are direct buses every day at 7.30 am and 1.30 pm. Allow 6 hours' transport for around 300 Nu. From Kolkata, departures on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. A day's journey is required for around Nu 750. Once you've arrived in Phuentsholing and Gelephu, you can take a bus to reach Bhutan's major cities. The companies (Meto, Khorlo, Dhug Transport among others) are relatively safe. On the other hand, roads are poorly developed, so the journey can be long! As for domestic buses, Bhutan has a good network, especially in the western part of the country.

Bike, scooters & co Nepal

Given the anarchy of Nepal's roads and the ambient pollution, we strongly advise against cycling. It is possible to rent one by the day in the pedestrian streets of Thamel, provided you are armed with an anti-pollution mask. In Pokhara and Chitwan, on the other hand, cycling is very pleasant and there are plenty of rental companies. For experienced bikers, motorcycles can be hired in Kathmandu and Pokhara for between Rs 600 and Rs 1,500 a day, provided you have an international motorcycle licence. But here again, we advise against it, as it is dangerous. In central Kathmandu, try out the rickshaw, a two-seater tricycle that's rather kitsch, but has a formidable advantage: it's easy to squeeze through the narrow streets of Thamel.

With a driver Nepal

In Nepal. Cabs are the best way to get around the big cities, especially Kathmandu. They are affordable and, above all, plentiful! Most of the cab fleet is made up of 15-year-old Japanese cars (at least...). For a downtown trip (from Thamel to Durbar Square, for example), expect to pay between Rs. 200 and Rs. 300. To go as far as Bodnath, it will cost you around 600 Rs. You can also negotiate a day pass with the cab. Alternatively, there's the very practical and inexpensive Pathao smartphone app for ordering a cab efficiently.

In Bhutan. The driver's remuneration is included in the package price if you go through an agency, but you'll have to pay his fares if you take an e-visa yourself and pay for everything separately. Bhutanese cabs (vans with yellow roofs) are also available in towns and on the borders with India. A seat costs between 500 and 1,500 Indian rupees. Don't forget to get your passport stamped when you leave India.

By car Nepal

It is not possible to rent a car without a driver in Nepal. And that's no bad thing in a country where there are no traffic regulations: the law of the jungle applies (trucks and buses), people drive on the left-hand side of the road, and roads are more like tracks (often broken). Accidents are very common!
On the other hand, it's easy to hire a chauffeur-driven vehicle through a travel agency. Count from 60 to 100 US$ per day.

Accessibility Nepal

In Nepal. There are no facilities for people with reduced mobility or major disabilities. For example, Kathmandu has no sidewalks, which can be very, very difficult for wheelchair users...

Bhutan. The country is very considerate of people with reduced mobility.

Tourist traps Nepal

Few cabs use their meters, and most of the time they're switched off, becoming mere decorative objects! So it's best to negotiate in advance. If you're planning to go out in the evening, be aware that cabs are scarcer, and prices double. Make sure you have a means of transport in advance so you can get back.
Good to know: the rickshaw is one of the few vehicles available at night. Negotiate hard before you get in, though, as the drivers won't offer you less than Rs. 500 a ride! Finally, for buses, prefer official companies and avoid travelling at night.