Products and lifestyles
Like India, Indonesia played a central role in the spice trade, attracting the interest of many European powers, particularly the United Provinces (now the Netherlands). Today, Indonesian cuisine makes particularly extensive use of spices, and several varieties are native to the region, such as cloves and nutmeg, which come from the Moluccas in the east of the archipelago; not forgetting star anise, tamarind, ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, pepper, lemongrass, kaffir lime or combava leaves, and chillies of all kinds, including the fierce bird's-eye chilli or " cabe rawit ". Garlic, shallots and onions are used almost systematically in most dishes, and are often fried as garnish. Pandan leaves, a type of palm, are prized for their delicate coconut and vanilla flavor. Many of these condiments are used in the composition of bumbu, a highly aromatic paste whose recipe varies from region to region, and which is used in the preparation of many Indonesian dishes: curries, noodles, grilled meats, etc.
Other condiments used to season food include terasi(fermented shrimp paste), with its powerful aroma, and soy sauce(kecap asin) from China. Not forgetting, of course, the essential kecap manis, a very thick soy sauce made with palm sugar, similar to molasses. An emblem of Indonesian cuisine, sambal is a chili-based preparation - often a paste - that comes in almost 300 varieties. The classic sambal ulek consists solely of chillies, garlic, vinegar and salt, while sambal terasi also contains shrimp paste. Some varieties are more like pickles, such as sambal mangga muda, made with chopped green mango.
With almost 95,000 km of coastline, it's hardly surprising that Indonesia puts fish and seafood on the menu in the form of numerous recipes. These include bonito, tuna, mackerel, pomfret, king mackerel, grouper, jack mackerel, red snapper, anchovy, swordfish, shark and skate, not to mention a host of seafood such as squid, cuttlefish, shrimp, crabs, including the prized blue crab, and various shellfish. Seafood and fish can be grilled, fried or cooked in sauce, but can also be dried and salted. Tilapia, carp and catfish are popular freshwater fish. The term " krupuk " refers to different types of crackers made with starch or sometimes rind, the best-known being shrimp crackers.
Chicken is the most popular meat. In fact, in this country, 85% of which is Muslim, pork is rarer, though much sought-after by Christians and Hindus, who traditionally do not eat beef. Goat, lamb, mutton, duck and some game are also popular. Vegetarian alternatives include tofu and tempeh. The latter is made from soybeans, sown with mold which agglomerates the beans into a white, nougat-like mass. These blocks are sliced and fried with various herbs.
Vegetables are widely used in Indonesian cuisine: carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, zucchinis, not forgetting beans that can exceed 90 cm in length, or the bitter melon also known as margose. Leafy greens (spinach, cassava or squash leaves) are sautéed with oil, garlic and chili pepper. Coconut is an essential ingredient in local cuisine, and its flesh is used as well as its water, milk and oil. Peanuts are also widely used, and are an ingredient in many dishes, as is the bancoulier nut or kemiri, which is ground to thicken sauces.
On the restaurant front, you'll find everything from warung to international restaurants. Emblematic of Indonesian street-food, the warung often consists of a few plastic tables and benches bordered by hanging canvases, planks or bamboo. A meeting place for many Indonesians, the warung is a place for nibbling, drinking hot coffee or tea, chatting and gossiping - in short, an inimitable social spot, all at low prices. The kaki lima are peddlers who pass through the streets with their little stalls, alerting gourmands to the sound of their recognizable music. The term " rumah makan " is used to refer to brick-built warungs more akin to a traditional restaurant. In Jakarta, home to a large number of expatriates working in international business, restaurants offer a gastronomic spectrum similar to that of any major capital city, from American fast-food outlets to high-end French or Japanese restaurants.
Classics of Indonesian cuisine
Although the emblematic dishes of Indonesian cuisine are widely available throughout the country, there are many specialties unique to each island.
Java - home to half of Indonesia's huge population - offers many succulent dishes, such as satays, small brochettes of meat (chicken, beef, pork, mutton, fish, shrimp, etc.) finely spiced and served with a peanut sauce. Jakarta's Betawi cuisine, like that of the capital, blends Chinese, Malay, Arab, Indian and European culinary influences. The famous gado-gado (a salad of boiled or blanched vegetables with a peanut sauce) is a prime example. Others include nasi uduk (rice with coconut milk), sayur asem (sweet and sour vegetable soup with corn),asinan (marinated vegetable salad with peanut sauce and crackers), ketoprak (rice vermicelli and rice cake with vegetables, tofu and peanut sauce) and kerak telor (spicy omelette with glutinous rice and serundeng (fried shredded coconut)).
In West Java, Sundanese cuisine's signature dish is karedok, a crunchy salad with green beans, bean sprouts and cucumber topped with a spicy peanut sauce. Others include mie kocok (beef soup with egg noodles), rujak cuka (fruit and vegetable salad in a spicy vinaigrette), soto bandung (beef and vegetable soup with white radish and lemongrass) or kupat tahu (fried rice cake, bean sprouts and tofu with soy sauce and peanuts). In Central Java, there are many dishes from Yogyakarta, such as the famous ayam goreng (fried chicken) and gudeg (curry made with jackfruit, a stringy fruit). Others include nasi liwet (rice in coconut milk, with dried anchovies and fried shallots), pecel (peanut sauce with poached spinach and bean sprouts) andopor ayam (braised chicken in coconut sauce).
In East Java, examples include saté klopo (beef saté with coconut), pecel lele (fried catfish served with rice and sambal), rawon (beef soup with keluak nut, which gives it its black color), bakwan malang (meatball soup with wonton - fried ravioli - and noodles) andorem-orem (coconut milk-curry soup with fried rice cake, tempeh and bean sprouts). On the island of Madura, you'll find bebek bumbu hitam (roast duck marinated with garlic, black pepper and shallots), sup kambing (mutton soup with curry and vegetables), soto madura (chicken or beef soup in a lemongrass broth) and nasi campur (rice dome surrounded by various fillings: meat in sauce, vegetables, skewers). Satay ayam madura (small skewers of finely spiced chicken with a rich peanut sauce) is probably the most popular version of satay in Indonesia.
The cuisine of Bali - a predominantly Hindu island - makes generous use of pork. One example is the festive babi guling, a spit-roasted pig stuffed with chilli, turmeric, garlic and ginger. Bebek betutu is a duck stuffed with a rich spice paste, wrapped in banana leaves and cooked over embers. Lawar - chopped coconut sautéed with vegetables, minced meat, garlic and chilli - is a Balinese classic, as are satés lilit. These small skewers of spicy minced meat (pork, chicken, beef) or fish are often pressed onto lemongrass sticks. Basa gede is a spice paste - containing shallots, chillies, coriander and turmeric, among other ingredients - that forms the basis of many Balinese recipes.
In North Sumatra, Batak cuisine includes babi panggang, a pork dish marinated in a mixture of spices and vinegar and grilled to perfection, or saksang, a pork stew - more rarely water buffalo or dog - with the animal's blood, coconut milk and various spices, civet-style. A similar dish,ayam namargota, is prepared with chicken cooked in its own blood. In the Aceh region, Arab, Persian and Indian traders have influenced local cuisine. These include mie aceh (thick noodles sautéed with beef or seafood, spices and vegetables), nasi gurih (rice with coconut milk, lemongrass and pandan), roti canai (flatbread of Indian origin) and various types of gulai, meat- or fish-based curries rich in coconut milk.
In western Sumatra, Padang cuisine is known for one of Indonesia's most emblematic dishes: rendang. This spicy stew of beef or water buffalo in coconut milk is cooked for so long that the sauce becomes almost dry, coating the meat to perfection. Other dishes includeasam padeh (freshwater fish stew in a spicy sour sauce), saté padang (beef-based, topped with a spicy sauce made from beef broth thickened with rice flour) and soto padang (beef soup with vegetables and rice vermicelli). In East Sumatra, proximity to Malaysia means that many dishes are shared between the two countries. These include nasi lemak (coconut milk rice with raw vegetables, dried anchovies, peanuts and meat in sauce) or laksa (rich coconut milk noodle soup with seafood, chicken, fried tofu and raw vegetables); not forgetting culai ikan kerapu, a popular grouper curry.
In southern Sumatra, particularly in the town of Palembang, pempek is a deep-fried fish croquette served with kuah cuko, a sweet-and-sour sauce made from palm sugar, chili, tamarind and vinegar. Tewkan is a light soup topped with pempek, mushrooms, vegetables and shrimp, and mie celor is a noodle soup with coconut milk, dried shrimp and hard-boiled egg. Reserved for a discerning public, tempoyak ikan patin features fish in a sauce of fermented durian, a fruit with a naturally strong taste and smell. In the Kalimantan region of Borneo, there are many Banjar specialties, such as soto banjar, a light soup with chicken, vermicelli, fish croquettes and hard-boiled egg, or mie bancir, fried noodles with chicken and hard-boiled cane egg.
South Sulawesi cuisine is centered around the town of Makassar, with specialties such asikan bolu bakar, grilled chano - or milkfish - served with sop saudara (a rich water buffalo soup with rice vermicelli). Other soups include coto makassar (made with water buffalo meat and offal) and konro (made with beef rib). In the region, many dishes are accompanied by burasa, a rice bread with coconut milk, steamed in a banana leaf. Rica-rica is a spice paste made from chili pepper and shallots, used to flavor grilled meat. Brenebon is a red bean and meat soup typical of Manado, in North Sulawesi, as is tinorangsak, a pork stew with chili, shallots, garlic, ginger and lemongrass, or mie cakalang, a tuna noodle soup. Cakalang fufu is a popular preparation of dried and smoked tuna, sometimes sautéed in oil with herbs and condiments. Many grilled dishes, especially fish, are served with dabu-dabu, a fresh blend of red chillies, shallot, tomato and sugar, with a dash of calamansi juice, a local citrus fruit. Woku is a sauce based on spices (chili, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, etc.) and herbs, used to season chicken or fish.
Nusa Tenggara, or the Lesser Sunda Islands, have a drier climate than the rest of the country, and here rice is often replaced by corn, cassava and taro. In Lombok, you'll enjoyayam taliwang, a recipe for grilled chicken marinated with garlic, chili and shrimp paste. Se'i babi, smoked pork from Kupang, on the island of Timor, is served. Plecing is a spicy sauce used in many dishes based on chili, shrimp paste and tomato, often served with sautéed water bindweed(plecing kangkung). The best-known Moluccan dish isikan kuah kuning (fish in turmeric soup), served with sambal colo-colo, prepared with fresh diced tomato, shallot, chili and plenty of soy sauce. In Papua, grilled fish and game - especially wild boar - are served with tubers. And don't forget papeda, a sticky, neutral-flavored paste made from sago, the starch extracted from the sago palm. Beetle larvae(ulat sagu) are also harvested from the wood of this palm tree, and are much appreciated by the local population, who eat them raw or cooked.
Desserts and fruit
The Indonesian term "kue" is very broad and refers to all kinds of sweet morsels (cakes, doughnuts, pies). It's not uncommon for them to be presented in assortments on a small banana leaf plate, known as " jajan pasar " or "market snacks". Examples include kue maksuba, a multi-layered cake made with sweetened condensed milk and cane eggs, or kue lapis legit - known in the Netherlands as spekkoek - which alternates between layers of plain and spiced pastry with a light speculoos taste. There's also kue bingka, a moist coconut milk cake, and kue bagea, a sago starch cookie. The surprising bika ambon - made with cassava or sago flour - has a very honeycombed, spongy texture, and wajik is a steamed cake with glutinous rice and coconut milk, always cut into lozenges.
Bananas are a much-appreciated dessert, and include the essential pisang goreng or banana fritter, as well as the surprising pisang ijo, a banana coated in a green-colored rice paste, steamed and served with coconut milk, or pisang epe, a banana pressed in a grill and topped with a palm-sugar syrup. Then there's kolak pisang ubi, a pandan-flavored coconut milk soup with banana chunks and sweet potato, not to mention nagasari, a snack made from rice flour, coconut milk and banana, steamed in a banana leaf.
Colenak are fermented cassava croquettes roasted in a sweet coconut sauce, and bola-bola ubi are fried sweet potato dumplings. The popular martabak manis is a thick, spongy pancake usually topped with a mixture of peanuts, chocolate, banana and sweetened condensed milk. Also worth mentioning are serabi, plump coconut-milk pancakes, available with a variety of toppings (fruit, chocolate, etc.). Quite similar, laklak are topped with grated coconut and melted palm sugar. Dadar gulung are rice-flour and coconut-milk pancakes that owe their green color to pandan extract. They are filled with grated coconut and palm sugar before being rolled. There's alsoampiang dadiah (buffalo yoghurt with palm sugar syrup and coconut flesh) andes buah, a brightly coloured drink made from condensed milk, various syrups, shredded coconut, jelly and crushed ice. Closely related,es cendol contains rice jelly vermicelli and mashed red azuki beans.
With almost 2 million km² of tropical land, the diversity of fruit on Indonesian markets is limitless. You'll find the classic bananas, mangoes, pineapples, papayas, citrus fruits of all kinds, melons, watermelons and so on. Not forgetting, of course, less common varieties such as the dragon fruit, with its red, scaly skin concealing a flesh with a delicate kiwi taste, the carambola, whose slices resemble yellow stars, the mangosteen with its thick purple skin and delicate, very sweet flesh, the jambose - water apple - which is very juicy and crunchy, or the rambutan, the "hairy" cousin of the lychee.
More intimidating fruits include the famous durian: huge and covered with prickles like a medieval club, this fruit contains a creamy pulp that locals love. Westerners, on the other hand, are often more wary, as behind the rich, buttery taste of the flesh, the smell of durian may remind some of dirty socks or an over-ripened Camembert. As its name suggests, the salak or snake fruit has a brown skin covered with shiny scales. The fruit comes from a palm tree and has white flesh with a slight pineapple taste, which is appreciated in syrup.
Beverages and spirits
Unsurprisingly, fruit juices are legion. Be careful to avoid ice cubes, as they are often made with tap water, which is generally undrinkable. Try the surprising alpukat juice, an avocado milkshake. You'll find a host of hot and cold beverages, such as wedang uwuh (herbal tea with spices and honey),es lidah buaya (with aloe vera and mint), bandrek (infusion with ginger, palm sugar and cinnamon with coconut milk), lahang (water infused with sugar palm sap), or bajigur (coffee, coconut milk, palm sugar, pandan and ginger).
Indonesia is the world's4th largest coffee producer, and coffee trees can be found in almost every corner of the archipelago. Kopitiam are popular cafeterias where locals come to enjoy a snack and a hot drink. Known as " kopi ", the local coffee is mainly robusta, richer in caffeine than arabica. It is generally found in the form of kopi manis (sweet coffee), kopi tampa gulah (sugar-free coffee), kopi susu (café au lait) and es kopi (iced coffee). The country is also famous for kopi luwak, considered by purists to be one of the best coffees in the world, and above all the most expensive: you can expect to pay between €300 and €400 a kilo. Harvested from the droppings of an Indonesian civet, a small mammal that loves coffee berries, the beans are then cleaned and roasted. Digestion transforms the beans and refines their taste, giving coffee a unique flavor.
Tea, or teh, is ubiquitous and first appeared in the archipelago in the 17th century via trade with the Netherlands, which imported tea plants from China, although it wasn't until the 19th century that more intensive production began. Indonesian tea is generally black, and sometimes smoked: teh panas manis (sweetened hot tea), teh panas tampa gulah (unsweetened hot tea), teh jeruk panas (orange hot tea), teh jeruk nipis panas (lemon hot tea), es jeruk teh (orange iced tea), etc. Teh daun kopi, a coffee leaf infusion, is also very popular.
Influenced by a long Dutch presence, the country has also retained its taste for beer(bir), which is brewed locally. The best-known beers are Bintang and Anker, not to mention Tumage, Bali Hai and Prost.Arrack - not to be confused with Lebanese arak with aniseed - is a brandy made from rice or sugar palm sap, which can be very strong depending on fermentation, rising to 70°. Brem is a rather sweet rice wine found in Bali. There is also a large production of rum, notably from the Naga distillery, and a much more modest production of Hatten rosé wine in Bali, near Singaraja. The vast majority of Indonesian wine, however, is imported from Australia.
