Which means of transport to use Indonesia?

Jakarta Soekarno-Hatta International Airport, known to locals as Cengkareng, is organized into three terminals. Terminal 1 is dedicated to domestic flights, with subsections 1A, 1B and 1C serving airlines such as Lion Air and Sriwijaya Air. Terminal 2 handles both domestic and international flights, divided into sub-terminals 2D, 2E and 2F, the last of which is dedicated to Garuda Indonesia for its domestic routes. A free shuttle service links the terminals, with the option of cabs, costing approximately 50,000 Indonesian Rp.

Designed by Paul Andreu, the French architect also responsible for Paris' Roissy-Charles de Gaulle airport, Soekarno-Hatta airport offers currency exchange offices after customs, offering competitive rates and open even in the evening for late arrivals. Travelers can also buy or recharge local SIM cards. For cash withdrawals, ATMs accepting Visa and Mastercard are available. For luggage storage, the international terminal offers a secure service open 24 hours a day.

By bus

The Damri bus is an economical option, costing Rp40,000 to Gambir station. The buses clearly indicate their destination and, once in Gambir, the city center can be reached on foot or by motorcycle cab for a few rupees.

By cab

Recommended cabs include Blue Bird, Express, Taxiku and Gamya, with journeys to the city center (Jaksa) estimated at between 150,000 and 200,000 Rp. Sharing the cab fare with other travelers can be economical.

By train

Finally, a high-speed train connects the airport with the city center, departing first at 6.20 a.m. and last at 11.20 p.m. It's advisable to get off at Sudirman Baru station, the journey taking around an hour and costing Rp70,000, a faster and cheaper alternative to the cab. Tickets can be booked online at reservation.railink.co.id.

Arrival by train Indonesia

Trains are only available in Java and Sumatra. On the island of Java, trains are one of the most popular means of transport, offering excellent scenery, comfort and reliability. Trains are faster and more comfortable than buses, and sometimes cheaper.

There are three classes of train in Indonesia: economy, business and executive. All classes offer a good level of comfort. Your choice of train class will depend mainly on your budget, your preferences and the distance to be covered.

Economy class (Ekonomi class)

Perfect for short journeys of up to three hours, economy class is the most affordable, air-conditioned class with non-reclining seats. Much less legroom.

Economy class without air conditioning

These are open-window cabins equipped with fans instead of air conditioning. For very short distances, choose this low-cost non-air-conditioned class (ticket price should not exceed 40,000 Rp). Online purchase not available, you'll have to buy the ticket directly at the station.

Business class (Bisnis class)

With more legroom and comfortable seats, business class is a good compromise between cost and comfort. It's air-conditioned, and there's a small drinks table on the wall next to each pair of seats, with two European-style 2-pin sockets underneath. The "Bisnis" class is a perfectly acceptable alternative if the Eksekutif course is full or if you want to save money. Please note that the seats do not recline.

Executive or luxury class (Eksekutif class)

For longer journeys, opt for executive or luxury class. Seats are spacious and reclining, with more privacy and services. There's a small drinks table on the wall next to each pair of seats, with two 2-pin European-style sockets underneath.

Cars are numbered by class, usually starting at the front. Thus, car 1 is usually the first car behind the locomotive, car 8 at the rear. If the train has two or more classes, the numbers are repeated in each class, with an Eksekutif car 1, 2 and 3 and a Bisnis car 1, 2 and 3. So don't get on the Bisnis 1 car by mistake if your seat is in Eksekutif.

There are several options for buying tickets:

Online

We strongly recommend booking your train ticket online well in advance of your journey if you want to save money. Tiket.com is the booking website and you can also download the Tiket app. The second option is www.booking.kai.id, which is the official ticket sales website of Indonesian Railways (Kereta Api Indonesia or KAI). However, it is only available in Indonesian and only accepts Indonesian credit cards, making it of little use to foreign travelers. After payment, you'll receive an e-mail containing a printable booking confirmation. This includes an alphanumeric booking code and a QR barcode. Print it out and take it with you. If you don't have access to a printer, don't worry: the alphanumeric reservation code is all you need to print a boarding pass at the station.

At the station

You can also buy your train ticket at the station on the day of your journey (or a few days before if you have time to stop by). Bear in mind the risk that your desired rail class may be fully booked if you buy your ticket too late.

At the station, you'll usually find a desk with a stack of ticket order forms. Get one and fill it in. It will ask you for the same information you need when booking tickets online or at the convenience store: point of departure, destination, date of travel, train class, passenger names and passport numbers (of all passengers). Once you've done that, queue up at any window with a sign reading "pemesanan", which means "ticket reservation".

In Indomaret convenience stores

Indomaret convenience stores and some branches of other chains such as Alfamart have touch-screen terminals selling various types of tickets, including train tickets.

If you have booked your ticket online, at Indomaret or at the station (three days or more before the date of travel), your ticket will probably not be enough to get you on the train. You'll need an orange boarding pass. You can obtain these simply by checking in at one of the check-in desks inside the station. Alternatively, go to one of the touch-screen computer terminals called "Check-in counter" at the station entrance and scan the barcode or type in your booking reference. Your reservation will appear on the screen. Press print and the roller printer will print your boarding passes. Make sure you do this at least 10 minutes before departure time.

In principle, each passenger is allowed only 20 kg of baggage. Note that the weight of large suitcases or backpacks is usually checked. You are allowed to bring your own food and drink on the train. Note that each train has a cafeteria and serves quite good local dishes for a modest price.

Java's main railway stations form an essential network connecting the various regions of the island. Here are some of the most important stations:

Gambir railway station. Jakarta's modern central station used by the best Eksekutif-class trains to most destinations, station code GMR. If the trains from Gambir are full or the timetable doesn't suit you, or if you want to travel in Ekonomi class, try typing in the PSE station code and selecting Pasar Senen, which is Jakarta's second most important station and also fairly central.

Yogyakarta station. The main station in the center of the city is called Stasiun Tugu Pintu Timur. It takes around 6 to 8 hours to get from Jakarta to Yogyakarta by train. There are two main stations for trains from Jakarta to Yogyakarta: Pasar Senen (PSE) and Gambir (GMR). Economy-class trains (some with executive-class carriages), the cheapest option, depart mainly from Pasar Senen/PSE station. Executive trains (including priority and luxury classes) from Jakarta to Yogyakarta depart from Gambir/GMR station.

Bandung station. From Jakarta, there is a train every hour or two from Jakarta Gambir station to Bandung in Eksekutif & Bisnis class, which takes around 3h10. Beautiful views.

Surabaya station. Surabaya station (Pasar Turi) serves as a hub for East Java. It provides fast connections to destinations such as Malang, Banyuwangi and other major towns in the region.

Semarang railway station. Right in the center of Java, Semarang (Tawang) station plays a crucial role in the fluidity of travel across the island.

Sumatra has a less developed rail network than Java. No single system covers the whole island, but certain main stations play an essential role:

Medan station. The island's main railway station. It serves Rantauprapat, Tebing Tinggi, Pematangsiantar and Tanjungbalai. If you are arriving by train from the airport, take a direct SMO train to this station and you can then continue by train to other towns such as Siantar, Tanjung Balai or Rantau Prapat.

Palembang station. Palembang is the capital of South Sumatra. The main railway hub is Kertapati station. The Palembang (Kertapati) - Bandar Lampung (Tanjung Karang) service is the only intercity train in Sumatra (defined as linking two provincial capitals).

Pematangsiantar station: This station is located in the Siantar region, offering rail links for travelers moving around the northern part of Sumatra.

Arrival by boat Indonesia

Public ferries: the Pelni.

Always take some provisions with you. Apart from Pelni, there are regular ferry services between Sumatra, Java, Bali and Nusa Tenggara. It's easy to get from one island to another, but you need to have plenty of time, given the distances involved, and not be afraid of crowding. Tickets for Pelni ferries can be booked online or at the company's offices in major ports.

Coasters and ferries.

Ferries carrying vehicles link the various islands of the Sunda: Sumatra and Java, Java and Bali and so on to Timor. Coasters connect the other islands. Another option to exploit!

Bugi sailing boats.

Sailing on a Bugi sailboat is possible, but not just anywhere. We searched in vain for Kalimantan-bound sailboats in every port on the west coast of Sulawesi, from Kwandang to Ujung Pandang, via Toli-Toli and Palu. Their time is well and truly over. They've been replaced by pseudo-wooden cargo ships that look like ugly ducks. Today, these prahus can only be found in the ports of Ujung Pandang, Surabaya, Jakarta and Kalimantan. Elsewhere, their presence is fortuitous and accidental.

Cruises.

You can also take a luxury cruise, especially between Bali, Lombok and the smaller Sunda Islands. These can be taken on basic boats or local ferries in equally basic comfort, or with more or less luxurious tourist companies. The difference in standards is as great as the difference in ticket prices.

Westrongly recommend that you book your ferry tickets two to three weeks in advance.

Public transport Indonesia

Bus

The main means of transport in Indonesia. Hotels often act as agents. Buses are still the cheapest way to get from one city to another. The state of the roads in Java, Sumatra and Sulawesi makes for a wide variety of buses. They can be luxurious, with air conditioning and video, or in poor condition and rickety. The "ekonomi" buses run between towns and villages. They leave from a bus station, often far from the city center, and stop wherever people are waiting. The cashier stands outside these often crowded buses and calls out to passers-by.

Inside, the melee can become quite colorful. Chickens, birds, goats, passengers - it all comes together. These buses are often the only means of communication between villages. You'll certainly find yourself sitting with your legs wedged between baskets or buckets filled with fruit, rice sacks and pottery. The very low prices make it easy to get around. The silhouettes of these brightly-colored, patched-up minibuses, starting off in a black cloud of diesel, are a familiar and vivid image of intercity travel in Indonesia. These buses run fast and smoothly, but are not exactly comfortable. The seats are designed for people 1.65 m tall; tall people will suffer. The buses in Sumatra will astonish you: the rear seats, on which barely three people can sit, accommodate seven to eight Indonesians, plus children. No reservations on these buses; on long distances, it's a real pain, especially as all the men smoke.

The big tour buses, on the other hand, are relatively comfortable; you'll get air conditioning, toilets, reclining seats, blankets and cushions, and even a bottle of water and a snack! These buses leave at a specific time, and you can buy your ticket in advance from a travel agency that organizes the whole trip, or by going directly to the bus station.

The companies often have their own ticket offices. Generally speaking, it's best to go to the bus station and book early in the morning or late at night. For short journeys, you pay inside the bus during the journey or on departure. For longer journeys, you pay beforehand and choose your seat. Credit cards are often accepted.

Truck

Some have bench seats in the back. Generally, you sit on the floor or stand upright. Recommended when roads are impassable for conventional vehicles. But if you've reached this point, you're already an adventurer.

Bemo/Angkot/Mikrolet

The bemo is a four-wheeled "pick-up", fitted at the rear with two benches facing each other. The color corresponds to its route. The bemo serves fixed inter-city or inter-urban routes in the manner of a loop. It stops on roadsides wherever there are potential passengers. If you're tall, or of a certain height, make sure you're seated close to the exit. These Japanese minibuses, also known as "mikrolet", are very common in urban areas, providing fast, efficient transport from one city to another. They are moderately priced, but beware of scams! Most of the time, bemos, which belong to private or public companies, are operated by two people: the driver and the hawker. Before taking a bemo, it's a good idea to ask the driver where you're going, and then, if you're happy, get on without worrying about money (provided the journey is within the city). The important thing in Indonesia is to always show that you know. It's when you get out of the vehicle that you hand over the money to the hawker. The official bemos prices for each city vary only slightly from one year to the next. Watch what other travellers pay. A foreigner will quickly pay 10 times the real price of a fare... Bemos are still common in Jakarta, Makassar in Bali, on the island of Flores in Labuanbajo, but in other cities in Java, for example, they're called angkot (not facing benches, but in rows). These minibuses are particularly popular in Bogor and Bandung.

Bike, scooters & co Indonesia

Especially in Solo. Cycling is not widely used in Indonesia. The bicycle is a pleasant way to visit a city and its surroundings. Its moderate pace allows you to take your time and enjoy the landscapes and situations of everyday Indonesian life. Of course, the gradients of the roads, the hills and narrow lanes will require effort and caution, but the soft sound of the tire on the asphalt will leave you with an image worthy of the wayang beber. Avoid bicycles in the big cities, as they are very dangerous.

Bicycles are available for hire in the main tourist resorts of Bali and Lombok. You'll find mountain bikes or the old Dutch moped, a little soft and heavy, but quiet and majestic.

Two-wheelers

With a driver Indonesia

Cab

Becak

The becak (pronounced "bettcha") is a two-wheeled rickshaw driven by a driver sitting on a half-bike. They are often beautifully decorated. In fact, it's a bicycle whose front wheel has been replaced by a seat supported by two wheels. The becak is now banned from the main streets of major cities. However, as in Yogyakarta, it remains the quietest and most pleasant way of getting around town. The becak carries you along in a gentle rustle, and the slow, steady speed of its movement allows you to survey the city and see the images of day and night flash by. The driver's effort is all that's needed to glide quietly through the alleyways. The becaks are comfortable, especially when it comes to finding an address in a new city. You don't have to wander around blindly in your harness. In Yogya, cyclists will try to show you around the souvenir stores. They take a commission for every purchase you make. If you don't want to stop, be firm.

In general, the driver doesn't own his becak and you need to be tactful before haggling for a ride. Negotiations are never-ending, and sometimes it's quicker to walk. The driver's work is exhausting: the machine is heavy and you may be too. Haggle hard though, but please don't haggle too much for a few rupees, and remember what you pay in cabs in Europe. Also, if there are two of you, it's best to take a becak each... Motorized becaks are beginning to appear here and there.

Ojek

These are small motorcycles or scooters that take a passenger in the back. Negotiate the price. Prices are a little more expensive than other means of transport, but it's very practical for covering short distances in an unfamiliar city. Ojeks are usually located outside railway stations, or at strategic points on the city's main thoroughfares. To ask the driver to slow down, say "pelan pelan" The Gojek and Grab mobile apps are the "local Uber" at a reduced price. Feel free to use them anywhere in Indonesia. Be aware that some areas, such as airports, have restricted access to this type of transport.

Bajaj

This is the Indonesian tuktuk. It's orange and noisy, it goes everywhere, you swallow the smoke from all the trucks and buses, but it's still a wonderful traffic jam companion. It's a half-Vespa that drags behind it a cubic crate. Very noisy, very crazy with a lawnmower engine. Only in Jakarta. Again, negotiate the fare before you get on.

Dokar carriages

These are horse-drawn carts. They are decorated and equipped with bells that jingle in the wind. The chassis is suspended on two wheels and features two seats facing each other. Negotiate the price of the ride before you get on. You'll find them just about everywhere, especially in medium-sized towns. The little horses that pull them are originally from Sumba. They are said to have come with the Mongol troops of Koubilai Khan, the grandson of Genghis Khan. In many cases, the coachman is simply an employee. Many buy their carriage and go into debt, but soon they can no longer meet the costs of the loan and are bought out. The coachman remains responsible for his carriage; if it is damaged or if his horse dies, he has to pay it back: years of work down the drain.

By car Indonesia

It's one of the government's biggest challenges: improving overland transport links. The road network is the cheapest means of transport, but by far the most tiring. Whether in Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi, Flores or Timor, Indonesian roads are simply exhausting.

They resemble rutted country lanes on which buses run at breakneck speed. The only exception is the Trans-Javanese. The skid-marks throw you off balance at every turn, and your heart races when someone overtakes in third place, eating the kerb, or when your driver, with no visibility at all, follows the wheel of his colleagues who are already overtaking in single file. Accidents are frequent and violent, which explains some people's preference for the railroads. Even so, we're beginning to see more and more work being carried out on the main roads. The Trans-Floresian is improving, as are the main roads in Sulawesi.

Driving

In Bali, road accidents are the leading cause of death among tourists and young people. In Indonesia, people drive on the left, but trucks and buses drive in the middle, where they can when overtaking, sometimes in third position.

If you're on a scooter or bicycle, your only recourse is to run into the ditch.

You'll have to reckon with unlit vehicles at night, dogs or chickens swerving across your path, and discotheque exits.

Other hazards include bemos, minibuses, dokars and other carts, and motorcycles themselves, which suddenly disengage or start up. As for the rear-view mirror, it's usually used to fix your hair! Beware of roadworks and signage, which may differ from our own in Europe. A poorly-lit hole or a pile of gravel can quickly turn deadly. Mountain roads sometimes have vertiginous slopes, and the surface may have been damaged by run-off water. In the event of a puncture, "bengkel" (garages) will be able to carry out repairs. If you're renting a car, ask whether there's a deductible, or read the contract between the lines. In the event of an accident, go immediately to the nearest police station. Drive slowly so you don't run anyone over!