Discover Uganda : On the Nile!

Why visit Jinja? For a sociological survey of the Indo-Pakistani community living there? To study, in detail, its colonial and religious architecture? To visit the stele of a fallen soldier from the Second World War? To find a souvenir in a downtown shop? Yes, all these laudable motives can be put forward. However, in the eyes of many national and international tourists, this southern city is associated with another idea or, more precisely, another activity. Is it linked to the Nile, which, according to John Speke (1827-1864), the Ugandan authorities and local tourism professionals, has its source in Jinja? Would it be attached to Mahatma Gandhi whose ashes were scattered in the river in 1948? Let's not speculate, we'll let you in on the secret: it's rafting that makes Jinja, the city of adrenaline, famous!

Bujagali, where the adventure begins!

For most rafters, the big day begins in Bujagali. Located on the right bank of the river below Jinja, Bujagali is Uganda's whitewater sports Mecca. It was here, in the upper Nile valley, that the pioneering companies set up their launch base in the mid-1990s. It was here, in a river section rich in waves and eddies located north-west of the Owen Falls dam, inaugurated in 1954, that inflatable rafts were launched. The use of the past tense is de rigueur, as the erection of a new hydraulic structure, the Bujagali dam, slightly downstream of the base camps, led to the disappearance - by flooding - of several rapids and the creation of a peaceful reservoir in the early 2010s. Since then, rafting and kayaking professionals have had to take their unwary customers downstream of this dam to begin their aquatic adventures. Nevertheless, with the exception of Adrift, specialist companies such as Nile River Explorers, Nalubale Rafting and White Nile Rafting continue to welcome, accommodate and feed their customers in or near the tourist hub of Bujagali. Naturally, this is also where the majority of day-trippers and lifelong paddlers meet - at around 8:30 a.m. - for breakfast, which is generally copious (fruit, toast, eggs...) and for an initial briefing. Although there are slight differences between the service providers (e.g. embarkation and disembarkation sites), the distance covered, the prices charged, the transport from Kampala (included in the price) and the quality of supervision, to mention but a few examples, they are as similar as two drops of water (we're staying with the theme...). The same goes for the brief mentioned above: invariably, or almost invariably, canoeists are reminded to take their sun cream with them (slipped into a waterproof bag). Once helmets and life jackets have been distributed, it's off to the bus or clamshell truck for immediate departure!

The meeting place for the intrepid

Thirty minutes and a change of shoreline later, the crazy crew is about to set sail. Before leaving the ground and getting into the water, the boat's captain embarks on a second briefing during which he provides valuable safety information. What to do, in particular, if the raft overturns (desalting)? What to do if you fall overboard? Or rather, what to do when you fall overboard, as the experienced helmsman explains that it is not a question of knowing if you will fall overboard, but when... It is now about 10 am. The time has come to set off on the Victoria Nile for 19 km of (very) strong sensations! The rafters then embark on the first rapids - the Jaws, Pyramid and Giggitty Giggitty - which allow them to test themselves before tackling Overtime, a waterfall classified as level 5. For the others, the big bath should take place in Chop Suey or Retrospect, level 4 rapids following Overtime. No fear (easy to say in retrospect!) as experienced kayakers come immediately to lend a hand to the freshwater sailors... Calm reaches allow you to catch your breath (in the full force of the word...) by diving and swimming in the warm waters of the river, while swallowing a snack and admiring the Nilotic banks While the Nile seems to be lounging, we hear the roar of the Bubugo rapids with which the encounter will be short but intense! Again, the chances of the boat flipping over are quite high... This is followed by a flat calm zone before the storm. This main course, where spectacular boils and giant waves compete for power, is made up of three large slope breaks stretching across the entire width of the river (around 700 metres). Separated by islands, these formidable falls have been named Kalagala Falls (level 6, west), Hypoxia (level 6, centre) and Itanda Falls (level 6, east). Only experienced kayakers and rafters can tackle the current. For the average person, disembarking is mandatory. The re-embarkation is planned a little lower down, at Bad Place, in other words the downstream portion (classified as level 5) of Itanda. Well done to those who don't fall in the water here!

Downstream and after

The rowers of the day, now accustomed to the gurgling of the Nile, are about to attack the dessert, Vengeance (level 4). As a preamble, the happy group frolics, tries bodyboarding, takes a last dip...and no doubt regrets to return to dry land soon. Until recently, the fun lasted a little longer and included two other turbulent areas: Hair of the Dog and Kulu Shaker. But the construction of a new hydroelectric dam (Isimba Dam), 35 km downstream of Bujagali Dam, between 2015 and 2019, made these famous rapids disappear, along with islands and riverine land. Nevertheless, the new dam was not the swan song - feared by stakeholders - of the prized water sports activities as the dam did not alter the main level 5 spots. The big thrill remains, therefore, as it ends with Vengeance. In spite of its not very encouraging name, this tumultuous gully should no longer scare the neo-pros of rafting. The raft is carried away by a big wave and accelerates little by little over several tens of meters. It is the favorite place for surfers. The last bathers, voluntary or not, return to their boat before landing. The four or five hours spent on the wave are thus completed. Nevertheless, the day is not over yet! Sodas and fresh beers make the water of the Nile pass. They are the prelude to the barbecue at the end of the afternoon, where the grills compete with pasta, potatoes, rice and vegetables. Time to recharge the batteries, to exchange unforgettable memories and to watch the photographs scroll by, which will be graciously given to each adventurer!

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