Kyrgyz horses
When we think of Central Asian horses, we immediately think of the fiery celestial horses, the result of the mating of a mare and a dragon, whose diligent pursuit by the Chinese enabled them to explore the foothills of the Pamir and the Tian Shan, opening the first stages of the future Silk Road. We also think of the splendid Turkmen horses of the Akhal-Teke breed, so jealously protected that no other horse is allowed to enter the country. But Kyrgyz horses are of a different breed altogether. Hardy, robust, enduring and small, with a height varying between 1.35 and 1.50 m, the Kyrgyz horse is also pleasant, docile and perfectly balanced and adapted to the mountains. So associated was it with nomadism that the Soviets tried to eradicate it from the landscape. The horse is now the subject of a protection program and, since independence, has once again become a star in the country, the subject of numerous games (see below) and dedicated festivals.
Saddle up!
You can travel to Kyrgyzstan by bus, cab, foot or bicycle, and avoid having to get on a horse. But what a pity to stay in the land of nomads without taking advantage of this ubiquitous means of locomotion! At every stopover, it's now very easy to hire guides and horses for horseback rides lasting a few hours or a few days, as you prefer. And don't worry: Kyrgyz horses, even in the mountains, even in ravines, even in the snow, know the mountains inside out, are as robust as they come and give their riders a feeling of serenity that lets you fully enjoy the scenery and sensations offered by the prestigious mountains, lakes and valleys. No special equipment is required: good shoes and warm clothing (the wind can be very cold at altitude, and as it's the horse that makes the main effort, the body doesn't warm up) will suffice. If you're a fan of safety at all costs, bring your own bomb or helmet, as there are very few available on site.
Various itineraries
Generally speaking, if you contact the regional coordinators of the CBT (Community based Tourism, www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg) network, you'll have no trouble finding a horse and its equipment and renting it for the duration you require. Whether you prefer a simple gallop along the shores of Lake Song Kul or a wilder, more off-the-beaten-track excursion between Talas and Lake Sary Chelek, it's up to you, but you should know that there's no difficulty in organizing an excursion of this type. Be careful, however, and don't embark on a trek without knowing exactly how long it will take and how difficult it will be. Some treks involve difficult trails requiring a certain amount of experience and total mastery of the horse. And don't be fooled into thinking that horseback riding is any less tiring than walking. A sore buttock and back await you in the evening if you're not in the right position, and once you've set up camp, you still have to look after the horse. So you need a certain amount of energy, passion and knowledge to embark on this adventure alone. And let's not forget one important detail: most Kyrgyz will rent you horses ridden in the Asian style, i.e. with saddles that are far less comfortable than in Europe. Fortunately, a number of local operators specialize entirely in horseback riding, and offer perfectly supervised tours with safe stages and professional guides.
Equestrian games
Equestrian culture in Kyrgyzstan is not confined to riding and pastoralism: since the dawn of time, horses have played a full part in games that have acquired great social importance over the years. Some traditions are still alive, such as the organization of oulak tartych, the equivalent of Afghan bozkachi (see below); others are pure folklore, such as hunting falcons on horseback; some are tending to disappear, such as kidnapping brides on horseback; and many others have become sporting events that can be witnessed at the festival of nomadic games, now organized every two years in Kyrgyzstan. Among these games, theat-chabich is a very popular long-distance race. It is the oldest and most widespread of equestrian sports. In the past, races were held over distances of up to 100 km, and riders were often children as young as ten years old.
Ulak Tartych: the most beautiful show!
But the most spectacular of all Kyrgyz equestrian sports is, of course, oulak-tartych. Long ago, this sport was practiced in Persian armies as a training exercise for the cavalry elite: a hundred or so horsemen would compete in these miniature battles. A goat is beheaded, and the riders fight over its remains. The rider who wins the melee must then ride a course marked out by poles, before returning to the center of the track and throwing the carcass into a circle marked out on the ground, representing the "circle of justice". During his ride, his opponents must try to take the loot from him, and then there are no more rules - anything goes. The game can become quite violent, both for the riders and their horses. Each team is dressed in its traditional colors, but there is only one winner, and rivalries also exist within the same team. The festivities of Navrouz, the Oriental New Year, often go hand in hand with the organization ofoulak-tartych competitions. If you frequent the country's livestock markets, you'll notice that a Kyrgyz never buys a horse intended for oulak-tartych without testing its speed, agility and sturdiness, charging into the heart of the market on other riders to take the measure of his mount. The oulak-tartych season begins in spring and lasts all summer, culminating in Kyrgyzstan's Independence Day on August 31.
