Vestiges of a legendary past
The petroglyphic sites testifying to a thousand-year-old human presence have fed many legends. As did the Karakhanid dynasty, which ruled the plains of Central Asia between the 9th and 13th centuries. There are still superb witnesses of this building and conquering people, notably in the city of Uzgen. A medersa (Koranic school), a mosque, a minaret and the mausoleums of three khans are still visible. Their brick structure is decorated with geometric and calligraphic motifs made of terracotta. Richly decorated domes, façades and porticoes give the place its full splendour. Another witness to the power of the Karakhanids is the Burana Tower, located in the Chu'i Valley. The silhouette of this minaret dominates a site that also includes traces of a fort, mausoleums and earthworks, all vestiges of Balasagun, a Karakhanid city founded at the end of the 9th century. Another legendary site is the caravanserai of Tach Rabat, the "stone fortress" culminating at an altitude of 3,500 metres. According to historians, it was originally a Christian monastery built in the 10th century, then transformed in the 15th century to accommodate travellers and caravans of merchants travelling on the Silk Road. Astonishing vestiges which are far from having revealed all their secrets.
Traditional habitat
Like all the great peoples of Central Asia, the Kyrgyz are nomads whose traditional habitat is the yurt, a tent with a removable wooden frame. The Kyrgyz yurt is characterized by a slender structure made possible by the use of hot-curved wooden poles running up the axis of the wall before joining up to the keystone of the roof. The arched shape of the poles - which are usually 40 in number, like the number of tribes in the country - frees up more space inside. All these wooden elements are usually painted red, the colour of divine protection. After the general framework, including a door always facing south, has been erected, the walls are completed with straw mats, which are then covered with felt covers and waterproof canvas. The village of Kyzyl-Tuu, on the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul, is famous for its yurt-making skills.
Kyrgyz houses in the city are usually single-storey and have a large under-roofed area for storage. The house is often part of a larger, fenced complex that also includes barns and sheds, an outdoor kitchen and a garden. The town of Karakol is famous for its wooden houses with porches decorated with beautifully carved and colourful patterns. In all the houses, floors and walls are covered with carpets and fabric hangings, which is reminiscent of the interior of yurts. Finally, note the specific architecture of the Pamir Massif, whose houses are built of stone and plaster and whose roofs are used to dry hay and wood. The houses have very few windows, lighting and ventilation being provided by a well drilled in the roof, thus ensuring warmth or coolness according to the seasons.Russian and Soviet influences
The most beautiful witness of the Russian presence is undoubtedly the Orthodox Cathedral of the Holy Trinity in Karakol. Rebuilt in 1895 after an earthquake, this church has a wooden structure anchored on a stone base. It is characteristic of Orthodox religious architecture with its domes topped by onion-shaped domes, themselves topped by crosses. The play of colour between the emerald of the roofs and the gilding of the crosses is superb.
As soon as they arrived in the region, the Soviets forced the nomadic tribes to settle down and participate in the national production effort. The Kyrgyz were then housed in large concrete bars without a soul. It is easy to understand the difficult relationship the Kyrgyz have with this largely abandoned heritage. However, the Soviets have proposed some notable advances, particularly in urban planning, giving pride of place to squares and parks. The Ala Too square in Bishkek is a good example. It is a mixture of classicism and modernity typical of Soviet architecture: ancient columns, golden domes and large arches surround the austere main building. In the distance, one can see the monumental White House, the presidential palace, impressive for the geometry and sobriety of its forms. All the administrative buildings retain the appearance of classical palaces, all of them glorifying the Soviet regime. Throughout the country, they have also left numerous infrastructures: dams, airport, factories... almost all fallen into disuse. The only structures still in use are sanatoriums, witnesses of the Soviet utopian and hygienic policy. The Aurora sanatorium, on the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul, is one of the most popular.Architecture today
The country is trying to find the right balance between preserving its traditions and entering into modernity. The Dasmia architectural complex in the heart of the capital is the most striking example of this. This complex, which took more than 15 years to build, consists of permanent yurts built of wood and concrete, felt and metal. Gigantic and richly decorated, the complex looks like a Hollywood set... no wonder when you consider that its creator worked for film studios!
Another achievement: the Ruh-Ordo Cultural Centre. Built in 2002, not far from Cholpon Ata, it groups together 5 chapels for each of the 5 major religious movements. Their similarity and proximity symbolize the unity of faith. Built on an ancient sacred site, it bears witness to the great spirituality of the Kyrgyz people.
Today a popular tourist destination, Kyrgyzstan has not forgotten its culture and its roots. Thus, alongside the more modern infrastructures being built in the cities (shopping centres, hotels), the country is also developing quality ecotourism, allowing visitors to discover the richness of nomadic cultures.
