Felt, the star of Kyrgyz handicrafts
Kyrgyz handicrafts stem from the traditions of nomadic life, and are often tinged with shamanistic, rather than Muslim, decorations. It is of excellent quality, provided you know where to find the best products... At the top of the list of materials used to make handicrafts is felt, highly prized for its insulating qualities (both hot and cold) and its waterproof qualities. Felt, or kochma, has been part of nomadic life for thousands of years. Clothes, hats, waterproof canvas for yurts, but above all decorative rugs(shyrdak). In Kyrgyzstan, warm colors (yellow and red) dominate.
Felt is not only used to make shyrdak : it is also used for many other purposes, particularly for clothing. In Bishkek, all these items can now be found in very basic form in bazaars and department stores such as Tsoum, but much better quality can be found in the capital's growing number of small craft stores and designer galleries. This is the best way to find quality items, with more contemporary lines, colors and patterns.
Shyrdak for all tastes
Shyrdak is THE Kyrgyz souvenir par excellence. These felt carpets are the mainstay of Kyrgyz handicrafts. Not only can you find them in any souvenir store, but it's also very easy to attend a demonstration of the techniques involved in making them, either on the side of the road if you're lucky enough to meet a craftsman doing it, or by asking a local tourist organization, which will be able to direct you to the best addresses. Although there are a few factories in the country, it's first and foremost a family affair. The first step is to harvest the wool: no less than five sheep have to be sheared to obtain a sufficient quantity. The wool is then scalded and beaten before being wound onto a long wooden cylinder. The cylinder is then rolled in all directions by cords wound around it and pulled in rhythm by two groups of people on either side. This is a very long and grueling process, which can last several hours. Since independence, artisanal felt-making has revived, and it's not uncommon to see a woman in her backyard producing her own felt for clothing or carpets. Make the most of it and try to witness the process.
Nomadic clothing
Women's embroidered garments and traditional national clothing (dresses, pants, hats, jackets) are also richly decorated and often unrivalled in their robustness! This is due to the nomadic lifestyle and the need for strong, durable clothing. This is why they are often reinforced with leather. Indeed, leatherworking was widespread among nomads. Today, leather manufacture is limited to the personal use of nomads, when they can afford it, but there are still some bargains to be had, provided you appreciate the embroidered decorations of shamanistic origin that still adorn the leather pants of horsemen.
Kalpak and tioupé
All visitors to the country must buy and bring back the traditional Kyrgyz hat. The shape of the kalpak, evocative of the Kyrgyz mountains, can be found in many other Turkic-speaking countries, as well as in Greece and Bulgaria, where the Turko-Mongol invasion has left the most traces. Although it evokes the mountain, its voluminous appearance serves above all to accumulate a small mass of air which, added to the thickness of the felt, enables the headgear to insulate the wearer's head from cold or heat. Embroidered with the colors of each city or region in the north of the country, it is less often seen in the south, in the Ferghana Valley, where the majority of Uzbeks have remained faithful to their tioupé, a smaller, more discreet black skullcap, whose embroidery also identifies its wearer's origin. Tioupé and kalpak are essential souvenirs to bring back from Kyrgyzstan.
Silk
Kyrgyzstan has seen many caravans following the Silk Road between Eastern Turkestan and Central Asia. However, there are no silk factories in the country, silk being produced in the Uzbek part of the Ferghana Valley, in the small town of Marghilan. In Bishkek, souvenir stores sell beautiful silk scarves, but they come from "down the road". If you're looking for something more personalized, you'll find it in the small designer boutiques that are springing up all over the place. You'll find beautiful silk scarves in shimmering colors, embellished with felt motifs that are, for that matter, as local as it gets.
And why not a yurt?
There's probably a very simple reason for this: Kyrgyz felt has a bit of trouble coping with the humid climate of our temperate zones. But if you live in the south of France, there's no reason why you shouldn't give it a try. Yurts alone are veritable objets d'art of nomadic culture. Some manufacturers specialize in selling and exporting traditional models better suited to the different climates of Kyrgyzstan. The best thing to do is to contact the CBT office in Bishkek, which will direct you to the sellers best suited to your tour, and can help you with shipping formalities. If you can't bring back an entire yurt from your trip, some of the pieces can serve as souvenirs. The colorful strips used as ropes to hold the yurt's frame and cover in place are usually skilfully woven and lavishly decorated. Once rolled up, they take up very little space.
Surprising musical instruments
Musical instruments, in particular two- and three-string guitars and tambourines, are an original and decorative souvenir of the country. They are largely similar to those found in the Arab world. Stringed instruments can be classified according to the number of strings and the presence or absence of an archer. In Kyrgyzstan, the three-stringed guitar(komuz) is predominant, while the two-stringed guitar dominates in neighboring countries. The komuz is a kind of lute carved from a single block of wood, with the highest-pitched string in the middle, between the other two. The komuz is always played seated. The ghijak, on the other hand, is played with an archer. There are also numerous flutes, both straight and transverse, often carved from bone. Straight flutes are called sibizgi in Kyrgyzstan and are the most common. The komuz, a traditional flute, small and cylindrical, will be easy to bring back and also typical not only of the region, but also of the country. A percussion instrument also completes the orchestras and is a resurgence of shamanist traditions, as is the Jew's harp, found only in the nomadic countries of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Another typical souvenir that takes up very little space!
Soviet memories
Less typical of Kyrgyz handicrafts, they are nonetheless highly representative of the country's recent history, and are omnipresent in every souvenir store in Bishkek. If you dream of wearing a red t-shirt decorated with the traditional hammer and sickle, if you think that drinking vodka shots from a Lenin glass set is very offbeat, or if a bust of Lenin inspires you as a paperweight on your desk, you've come to the right place. But beware, what is often presented as an antique may be a pale copy made in China: this is often the case in Bishkek stores, so pull the prices down and bring back these objects for the fun of it. In any case, remember that in Kyrgyzstan, haggling is an integral part of doing business.
