The Winter Olympics held in February 2018 in Pyeongchang put this beautiful country, still unknown to Western tourists, in the spotlight. Here we will highlight two cities in southwestern South Korea that also deserve to be (re)discovered.
The Korean peninsula is surrounded by seas, the Yellow on one side and the East Sea on the other. Long and narrow, the Korean territory extends for more than a thousand kilometres. South Korea borders Japan, China and, for its only land border, North Korea. The Land of the Morning Calm has a population of just over 51 million people, more than half of whom live in Seoul or its metropolitan area
Jeollanam-Do, was long considered "geographically unbalanced". Its relief is less rugged than in the rest of the country. The landscapes are no less splendid, still relatively wild and preserved. To compensate for this "lack of balance", the region has benefited from the construction of many Buddhist temples and monuments. The climate is mild and allows a rich vegetation to develop in good conditions; camellias, magnolias, bamboos and green tea grow in abundance. This region was also a land of exile for politicians who fell into disgrace during the Joseon period (1392-1910). It also served as a refuge for artists, until it became the literary capital of the country. It is finally, a province where the gastronomy is greedy and refined. Grain from the fertile soil of the Honam area, seafood from the coast, fruits, plants and vegetables from the mountains, have greatly contributed to this fame. Wonderful dishes are prepared here, such as Bibimbap, rice cooked in calf's head broth with thin slices of beef, mushrooms, bellflower roots, watercress, spinach and other wild plants. Another emblematic dish is Kongnamul gukbap, a dish based on anchovy broth, rice, salt-fermented shrimp, seasoned seed sprouts, leeks, garlic, ground sesame seeds and red pepper powder. Kimchi, Chueotang (a loche fish soup), or Kotgejang (spicy raw blue crabs that have been left to marinate) are also very popular recipes to be enjoyed without moderation
Jeonju, the weight of tradition
Jeonju is home to nearly 700,000 people. Its historical centre is very exotic, with its superb hanok, traditional houses, monuments and flowery gardens. The city, at the time of its foundation, was already populated two millennia ago by the Mahan tribe. Jeonju is also the hometown of the royal Yi clan, who founded the Joseon dynasty. In addition to these historical facts, the city gained an international reputation thanks to its manufacturing workshops and first and foremost, paper. This one is still used for the production of fans, Hapjukseon and Taegeukseon. The brushes designed in Jeonju, just like the musical instruments are also very popular. The Jeollabuk-Do region is also the centre of pansori, the Korean art of storytelling and Korean classical music. In addition to all this know-how, the city and the region are rich in monuments such as the Gaeksa, an imposing building that was used to house official guests during the Joseon period. Another building is the Jeonju Hyanggyo Confucian School, founded during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). A must, the Hanok village. It has a unique complex of over 800 traditional houses, a beautiful cathedral, and a superb traditional pharmacy. Not to be missed is the beautiful Hakindang mansion, which was built by an army of carpenters at the end of the Joseon period. The Geumsansa Temple, founded in 599 under the kingdom of Baekje (18-660), is sacred, housing relics of the historical Buddha. There are several buildings inside the temple, but the most famous of them is the Mireukjeon, with a three-tiered roof. It was built in 766 under the kingdom of Silla (668-935) to house a statue of Maitreya Buddha 11.82 m high. Since that time, Geumsansa has been considered as the center of the worship of this Buddha. Another temple to discover, the Tapsa. Less impressive, it has the particularity of possessing within its perimeter some 80 stone stupas containing Buddha relics, writings, or other sacred objects. Some are almost 50 feet high. They were erected by Yi Gap-yong, a princely descendant born in 1860, who had received in a dream the mission to build them to help unhappy souls
Yi Gap-yong spent the rest of his life living here, even though he was not a monk. Leaving the town, take Highway 26 to Jin-an and you will arrive at Maisan Provincial Park. Wedged between two hills that form a large V, this park, full of mysteries that science cannot explain, has been attracting curious people since the dawn of time. It is above all a place of legends, where gods are said to be prisoners on Earth
Suncheon, through history
One hundred kilometres further south lies at the end of a bay, the small ecological town of Suncheon. It is the starting point for many historic sites such as the Nagan Fortified Folk Village, the thousand year old Songgwangsa, Seonamsa temples, or ecological sites such as Jogyesan Provincial Park, Juktobong Park, or the Bay Marshes area
Suncheon, a city of 200,000 inhabitants, where it is good to live, has many treasures. Songgwangsa Temple, founded during the Silla period by the Zen monk Hyerin of the Hwaeom School, is considered one of the three jewel temples of Korea (along with Haeinsa and Todongsa). It represents the Sangha or monastic community (the others represent respectively the Dharma and the Buddha). We discover a building housing statues of devas (Hindu gods). Then a pavilion dating from the mid-18th century, the Uhwagak. After crossing it, we enter the temple by passing under a belfry. In the main hall stand proudly Buddhas of the past and future and four bodhisattvas (Buddhist sages). Another temple is the Seonamsa, founded in 529 by the monk "evangelizer" Ado. Inside, there are many pavilions, stone bridges, two three-storey pagodas. Heading towards the town of Beolgyo, near the fortress Naganeupseong, the fortified folk village Nagan. It was built during the Baekje period; later, during the Goryeo period, due to frequent attacks by Japanese pirates, it was fortified. It is one of the few villages that have remained intact
On the right side of the village there are official buildings. Nagan was a village where several different clans lived. A gaeksa, is always well preserved. Next door is the old governor's house. On the left side there are several thatched cottages and tall, hundred-year-old trees. Folklore shows and festivals are organized there every year, including a gastronomic one, the Namdo. In the surrounding area, agricultural villages offer visitors an introduction to rural traditions. Archery and cooking classes in Cheongsori, plant-based activities in Gyewolri, honey making in Yongoreum, dried fruit making in Gosan..
Going to Suncheon means discovering one of the five major wetlands of the world, an exceptional natural environment. The marshland area is a very valuable place for the preservation of fauna and flora. Among the species present, monk cranes or Saunders' gulls. The berry is strewn with eulalies, chrysanthemums, reeds... In the adjacent national park, several gardens have been laid out, Chinese, Turkish, French, Dutch. This park is the largest in South Korea, including an impressive avenue of metasequoia trees. Smaller, the Jogyesan and Juktobong parks. The latter overlooks the town of Suncheon and houses an ancient pavilion, the Yeonjaru. The Jogyesan Park is close to the village of Songgwangni with rice terraces all around. Finally, going down a little further west, the green tea plantations on the hills of the village of Boseong offer a magical landscape, especially in spring when the small green leaves are picked.
Smart info
When? It is best to go there in spring or autumn because the air is cool, but not too cool, and the days are sunny. Winters are often harsh, temperatures drop below zero, and summers can be extremely hot, above 30°C, and humid, with torrential rains accompanying the monsoon
Getting there. Air France, Korean Air and Asiana Airlines offer several flights a day from Paris. To get to Jeonju, take the KTX train to Seoul at Yeongsan station (duration: 1h45). Express buses also run between the two cities, departing from the Central City Terminal, Honam line (duration: 2h40). For Suncheon, 4 daily departures by KTX fast train (duration: 2h50).
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