What is kimchi?
In a nutshell, kimchi is any vegetable seasoned with chili, salt, garlic, sugar, ginger and sauces such as fish or soy sauce, which is then left to macerate and ferment. This fermentation period can vary from a few days to several years, depending on individual taste. The longer the fermentation, the more pronounced the taste.
Originally, kimchi was made using a brine preservation technique designed to keep vegetables and vitamins available during the harsh winters. Large earthenware jars (still found in traditional Korean restaurants) were buried in the ground. At the time, practicality was paramount, leaving any quest for taste to one side.
A thousand and one recipes
The preparation of kimchi has fluctuated over the years. Exchanges between kingdoms and then between countries, the introduction of new vegetables and spices, have made kimchi an institution that is still evolving. There is no single recipe. Cucumbers, radishes, Chinese cabbage... there is a huge variety. Each region has to make do with its own ingredients, but also adapt to its own climate. For example, warmer regions will need more salt to maximize shelf life.
Let's take a quick look at each region of Korea and see what type of kimchi we're most likely to find on our tables.
In the Gyeonggi-do region, formerly the royal region, kimchi is more elaborate and complete. In Gangwon-do, fish and seafood play a much greater role than elsewhere. In Chungcheong-do, there's very little salt. Unlike Gyeongsang-do, further east, where the climate is warmer. A greater quantity of salt is therefore required. As for Jeju Island, the kimchi is very lightly seasoned. It is therefore closer to the historical version.
On all tables
Although there are more than two hundred different interpretations, there's one that's more widespread, and one that you're likely to come across just about everywhere: the one based on Chinese cabbage. It's called 배추김치 ("Baechu kimchi") and is one of the spiciest versions. For those who can't stand the heat of chili, there are also non-spicy counterparts, such as 백김치 ("Baek kimchi"), which features hazelnuts and pears.
To accompany grilled meats and oily dishes, we can serve you the very fresh 물김치 ("Mul kimchi", literally " kimchi water"), which is presented in its fermentation juice.
The prince of kimchi, as it was formerly served on royal tables, is 보쌈김치 ("Bossam kimchi"). This is truly its most luxurious version. Fermentation takes place rolled up in a cabbage leaf. Vegetables, boiled pork, small octopuses, oysters, walnuts, mushrooms, apples, ginseng... are all added to the leaf.
Every dish, every occasion will have its own type of kimchi.
Of course, kimchi is eaten on its own, but it can also be used as an ingredient in its own right, in dishes such as 김치찌개 ("kimchijjigae", kimchi stew) or 김치볶음밥 ("kimchibokkumbap", kimchi fried rice).
Kimchi and society
It really is an integral part of Korean families. Between autumn and winter, members get together for a long preparation session. It's all about stocking up to last for several months. This ritual is called the 김장, "kimjang", which, underscoring its importance, has been listed as a World Heritage Site since 2013. The notion of sharing is very much present, as this moment is an opportunity for family, loved ones and neighbors to spend a moment together as much by making kimchi as by eating it. Because of time constraints and the tedious nature of the preparation, more and more Koreans are turning to pre-prepared kimchi from China.
Funnily enough, every household has a special refrigerator dedicated entirely to kimchi, because of the strong smell. But like cheese, the better it smells, the better it tastes.
Kimchi is truly characteristic of Korean culinary culture. On average, per capita consumption is 37 kg per year. Crunchy, acidic and spicy, it confuses the uninitiated, but quickly proves addictive. What's more, as many laboratories attest, it's a health food par excellence. It perfectly embodies the Korean proverb that food is medicine. Rich in fiber, vitamins, lactic ferments and probiotics, kimchi is a slimming ally, helping to combat aging and digestive problems. If it's good for you, there's no reason to deprive yourself!
Kimchi and its economy
Exports of South Korean kimchi hit a record high, due to a global rise in the popularity of the Korean culture, reaching 44,041 tons in 2023, an increase of 7.1% on the 42,544 tons exported in 2021 and 55% on 2018! The value of these exports amounted to $156 million in 2023.
Korean production unfortunately competes with that of China, which is less expensive to buy. If the cost is different, the taste is even more so. In 2023, Japan imported over 20,000 tons of kimchi, and the United States 10,000 tons - rising from $14.8 million in 2019 to $29 million in 2022, according to The Korea Daily.
The lode has also been spotted by Europe's major capitals, who are riding the wave of kimchi's popularity. They often cook it mixed with more Western dishes (burger, pizza...).
Experiment with kimchi
Its preparation is rather intriguing, but there are places where you can learn all about it. In Seoul, you can go to the Kimchikan Museum and learn how to make kimchi during cooking lessons. Unsurprisingly, participants leave proudly with their own kimchi. The Seoul Kimchi Academy offers packages of typical experiences. In addition to preparing kimchi under the guidance of chefs, visitors can try their hand at cooking tteokbokki, a popular snack, or wearing hanbok, the traditional garment. Kimchi, hanbok and tteokbokki combined ensure 100% immersion in Korean culture.
Much further south, in Gwangju, you can visit Gwangju Kimchi Town. Here, too, you can try your hand at making kimchi, as well as visiting the kimchi art gallery and market. During the annual festival, the most talented and daring visitors can even take part in the Kimchi Market Competition and win a prize.
It's impossible to visit South Korea without taking a closer or closer look at this illustrious dish of ever-growing renown. You'll get it anyway, even if you eat Japanese or Chinese food.
A small recipe
If you ever miss the inimitable flavor of kimchi back in France, here's a little recipe based on Chinese cabbage that comes straight from Korean grandmothers and that you can share with your loved ones:
1) Cut the cabbage lengthwise into strips.
2) Put coarse salt between each leaf. Set aside overnight in warm salted water.
3) Separately, prepare a mixture of fish sauce (1 tbsp), green onions (2-3), sugar (1 tbsp), toasted sesame seeds (1 tbsp), grated fresh ginger (2 tbsp), finely chopped garlic cloves (4 cloves) and, above all, red chili powder (1-3 tbsp).
4) Once the cabbage is drained, generously brush each leaf with the chili preparation.
5) Ferment your kimchi in an airtight container for one week.
