To the origins
, you can discover the foundations of the very first semi-subterranean houses, around which many objects and tools were found, while the site's park offers superb reconstructions of adobe huts (mud brick mixed with straw and dried in the sun), a material that Koreans will not stop using later on. But the most astonishing witnesses of this prehistory are the Korean dolmens, the most famous of which are on the island of Ganghwa. Their presence in Asia - even though these structures are mainly found in Northern Europe - still astonishes researchers. In Korea, these dolmens are of three types: table-shaped (large raised stones topped by a flat slab), which are found on Ganghwa; low structure with a simple slab supported by two small stones found in the south; and finally simple structure with a slab directly covering the burial chamber. These are all examples of early architectural forms that were already very elaborate. The Three Kingdoms period is characterized by a very clear influence of China in architectural matters. Some of the key Chinese features include the following: the influence of geomancy and feng-shui in the search for a perfect balance with nature, courtyard-centred plans (especially palaces with their courtyards in a row), foundations in the form of brick or stone platforms, the work on the wooden framework with pillar structures and lintels on several floors (notably the pagodas), eaves protruding beyond the supporting pillars, and extensive decorative work with latticework of the façade windows, lacquered or varnished tile roofs and the presence of gargoyles representing the celestial protectors. The large buildings of the period are temples and fortresses. From the Kingdom of Baekje, we have inherited the beautiful Popchu-sa temple with its 5-storey central pagoda and the impressive Bukhansan fortress with its 8 km of ramparts. The Kingdom of Goguryo has also left many mountainous fortresses and temples copying the Chinese wooden pagodas. The most beautiful example is the Hall of Eternal Life at Buseok-sa Temple, which is considered to be one of the oldest wooden structures in the country. Finally, the non-unified Kingdom of Silla has left a unique witness: the Chemseongdae Astronomical Observatory with its tower composed of 365 stones (such as 365 days) and its 12 foundation stones (such as 12 months).The golden age of the Kingdom of Silla
The unification of the Kingdom of Silla corresponds to a period of great cultural and architectural effervescence. It was the golden age of Korea and the age of the widespread development of Buddhism. The rulers had many temples erected and financed the studies of monks in India and China, two countries that would continue to influence the architecture of the temples. The latter all share common elements: the iljumun or the first great door of the temple with its tile-covered pillars, the sacheonwangmun or the second door protected by the colossal statues of the 4 celestial protectors representing the 4 cardinal points, the beopdang or reading room that one crosses to reach the pagodas housing the ashes of the eminent monks. Then come the daeungjeon or main sanctuary dedicated to Buddha, the myeongbujeon or judgment room and finally the sansingak containing the portrait of Sansin, the legendary mountain god. The most famous temple of the period is the Bulguk-sa temple with its two stone pagodas Seokgatap and Dabotap (a unique example of a pagoda decorated with stairs and balustrades). Other great witnesses of the Silla period are the Seokguram Shrine with its artificial cave, whose main burial chamber with a circular plan and dome and the Songgwang-sa Temple are not to be missed. The capital of the Kingdom of Silla was Gyeongju, today often called "the museum without walls" because it is so full of treasures. You will enjoy strolling through its tangled narrow streets with low houses with shiny tiled roofs. Today the town and its valley are especially known for housing the largest number of burial mounds or burial mounds in the country. The great figures of the time were in fact erected superb stone burial chambers which were then surmounted by a mound of earth, itself often surrounded by numerous protective sculptures. The Tumuli Park is not to be missed. Inhabited during modern times, the site was cleared of all these houses and has now regained its status as a national treasure
From the Goryeo Kingdom to the Joseon Dynasty
From the Kingdom of Goryeo, unfortunately, only a few witnesses have come down to us, as most of the buildings were made of wood. Moreover, a large part of these witnesses are now in North Korea. However, we know that the buildings of the period have been influenced by Mongolian (due to the various invasions) and again Chinese influences, especially in terms of roofing (roofing cake, eaves, curved ridge).
The Joseon dynasty, on the other hand, left many more witnesses. This period is characterized by the predominance of neoconfucianism. In terms of architecture, this translates into a search for functionality and frugality. To spread this new current of thought throughout the country, many local schools or hyanggyo were built. This period is also marked by the advent of a new social class that will play a major role in architecture: the Yangban aristocracy (literate and military) whose members will replace the local schools by real academies (seowon). They also built very beautiful houses with curved tile roofs resting on heavy beams, adobe walls, patinated balustrades and chiselled wooden doors. Very beautiful examples are to be seen in Andong. Another characteristic of these houses is the presence of protective enclosures, allowing the respect of intimacy and a form of interiorization of the family cult advocated by neoconfucianism. These are small-scale replicas of the powerful walls surrounding the palaces of the time, the most beautiful of which can be seen in Seoul. Don'tmissthe Gyeonbok Palace and its amazing banqueting hall, and don't miss the Changdeok Palace and its secret gardens, the Biwon, whose fan-shaped pavilion is reflected on the surface of the superb water feature. Fountains and pavilions line all the most beautiful gardens in the country, an art inseparable from the country's culture and intimately linked to religious practice
Japanese occupation and post-war period
The Japanese occupying forces replaced the Korean heritage, which they had constantly destroyed, by constructing numerous public buildings and infrastructure with a total of thousands of kilometres of roads and railways, a feat in such a compact and mountainous country. One of the most sadly symbolic interventions of this occupation was the construction of a governor's palace between the Great Gate and the throne room of the Gyeonbok Palace, a way of severing the link between the monarch and his people. Fortunately, this building was destroyed in 1995. As a reaction to this occupation, a certain form of resistance was put in place with the preservation or construction of new hanoks, the traditional single-storey houses with adobe walls and clay tile roofs arranged around a courtyard and designed to blend in perfectly with their surroundings. By preserving them, the inhabitants have made them the vectors of Korean pride. The Insa-dong and Bukchon neighborhoods of Seoul have some very fine examples. Long threatened, they are now protected, especially in the folk villages. Some are original, others have been reconstructed, but in all cases they provide an opportunity to learn about traditional Korean ways of life. Among the most well-known villages are Namsangol Hanok Village and the very authentic Hahoe.
After the war, the country is in ruins. Everything has to be rebuilt. If the mountainous regions, because of their constrained topography, keep a relatively controlled urbanism, the rest of the country suffers from an almost anarchic urbanization. The population continues to grow and must be housed at all costs. Concrete bars and towers are rising out of the ground, creating dizzying and overwhelming prospects. The first series of buildings was erected in the Mappo district of Seoul in 1962. While their aesthetic appearance can be criticized, there is no denying the fact that they provide a certain comfort compared to the rudimentary living conditions in the countryside. And the Koreans seem to have adopted them perfectly, turning them into villages in the city. This urban growth has also been accompanied by the creation of satellite cities with wide avenues and buildings as far as the eye can see, while the giants of the Korean economy have created their own cities in parallel, such as Ulsan's Hyundai City. The companies then took over all construction, including schools and residential areas. Theeconomic prosperity can be seen everywhere, and the 236-metre highN Seoul Tower has become one of its emblems.
Contemporary period
The 1988 Olympic Games put the spotlight on Korea, which redesigned its infrastructure and built a gigantic Olympic complex and park. The emblem chosen for the Olympics is derived from a traditional Korean motif, the "sam t'aeguk", which is often used in architecture and whose three whirlpools represent the harmony of Heaven, Earth and Man. The great symbol of the period is the Olympic Stadium designed by the architect Kim Swoon-Geun, who also designed the National Museum of Jinju. Another leading figure in Korean architecture is Moon Hoon, whose often subversive designs are reminiscent of his Lollipop house in Yongin in the shape of a...lollipop, or the Panorama house in Cheongju with its accordion façade. His most recent creations are more sober, giving pride of place to concrete in particular, but still retain a touch of fantasy like his 4-storey residence nicknamed the Busan Owl. Moon Hoon has paved the way for a new generation of architects seeking to combat the uniformity of concrete bars by imagining a more human architecture, combining functionality and integration with the environment, like the Rabbit building in Seoul designed by the SoA agency or the astonishing RW Concrete Church in the Byeollae district. This church with simple geometrical shapes and entirely made of concrete was imagined by the Nameless Architecture agency, which successfully mixes art and design. The UNStudio agency has completely redesigned the famous Hanwha building by creating a dynamic façade designed to minimize environmental impact. Of course, thecontemporary era has also seen the growth of many skyscrapers, of which the Lotte World Tower and its 555 m is one of the most impressive in the country (even if it will undoubtedly be dethroned by the future Infinity Tower in Incheon, whose façade will be equipped with LEDs and cameras that will film the tower's environment and then send the images back to the tower itself to make it invisible...quite a programme!), as well as many shopping malls (including Lotte World) which also have their underground counterparts (the subsoil of Seoul is crisscrossed by miles of underground shopping malls with real pedestrian streets, like the Nagwon Arcade), but real reflections are being made today to rethink the city and bring back nature. This is how the bed of the Cheonggyecheon River in Seoul has been restored. Until then entirely concreted, it has been rehabilitated. The banks have been paved and charming little fords now overlook the water. In spite of some disputes, the complex has become a popular place for Seoul's inhabitants to stroll. Another beautiful project to come, the rehabilitation of the motorway bridge built in the 70s and which has since fallen into disuse. A big competition has been launched to transform it into a pleasant walk with trees...or how to reinvent oneself without destroying it. Finally, this overview would not be complete without the evocation of the creations of the great names in international architecture. Dominique Perrault has created an astonishing extension to the EWHA University with two symmetrical buildings partially buried with roofs transformed into a promenade. Zaha Hadid rethought the centre of Seoul by imagining the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a multifunctional complex whose main building is a sort of silver spaceship with elegant curves and a green roof. While the LEEUM or Samsung Museum of Art entrusted the realization of three of its buildings to Mario Botta, Jean Nouvel and Rem Koolhaas. The first was inspired by traditional Korean porcelain, the second imagined an innovative design in glass and stainless steel, while the third imagined a black concrete structure that seems to float in the air. Amazing!
