Historic city center
The historic city center is on every postcard of Warsaw, and is as authentic as they come. Eighty-five percent of it was destroyed by Nazi troops in August 1944, during the Warsaw Uprising, and partially rebuilt by the Communist regime after the war, it offers a curious blend of ancient architecture and modern techniques. It comprises the Old Town (Stare Miasto) and the New Town (Nowe Miasto), just north of the former. Crowded with tourists, the whole complex has the feel of a museum city.
Modern center and Royal Way
The modern center (Śródmieście), a mix of Communist buildings and skyscrapers, impresses. The Palace of Culture and Science square, one of the Stalinist sisters, opens onto the Marszałkowska/Jerozolimskie axes and then the Royal Way, the heart of the city (Nowy Świat and Krakowskie Przedmieście). The city center is bounded by the Vistula River to the east, by Avenue Jean-Paul II (Jana Pawła II) to the west, by Avenue Al Armii Ludowej to the south and by Avenue Z. Słomińskiego to the north. This is where Warsaw life is concentrated around its cafés and bars.
Praga and the East
On the right bank of the Vistula, this large, working-class district is undergoing radical change. The low cost of housing attracts young people, especially artists, who open their studios here. Bars, cafés, trendy nightclubs and cultural venues are springing up in its former warehouses and disused factories, which have also been converted into theaters, clubs, galleries... Praga is the capital's trendy, designer heart. Praga's charm is also historical. It's the only district to have survived the war, so you'll find some of the oldest buildings here.
South and west districts
Ujazdów, to the south, is a luxurious district containing a major attraction on Ujazdowskie Avenue: the Łazienki Palace and Park. It's also the political heart, containing on a wide avenue embassies and the Sejm (parliament). To the west are Muranów, Mirów and Wola, and to the southwest, Mokotów and Ochota. Mirów and Muranów have retained a certain cachet and are the former site of the Jewish ghetto. For a breath of fresh air, head for the Bielany district, next to the Kampinos National Park.