A gift from the volcanoes
Taiwan lies at the meeting point of the Yangtze (southeast China) and Philippine tectonic plates. The result is intense geothermal activity. When water seeps deep into the earth's crust, it is heated by a natural boiler. As minerals dissolve more rapidly at higher temperatures, they concentrate in the water, which then rises to the surface under steam pressure. Springs usually gush out along rivers, with hot water mixing with cold water, making it possible to obtain water at the desired temperature by building a natural bathtub. If the water is loaded with sulfur, it gives off a rather unpleasant rotten-egg odor, but remains highly sought-after for its therapeutic virtues. However, fumaroles can be seen in the north of the country, in Yangmingshan National Park. They are a sign of intense geothermal activity: water evaporates on contact with lava within the earth's crust, escaping through fissures. In some springs, such as Guanziling in Tainan, the water is loaded with earth, creating a thermal mud with medicinal effects much sought-after by the local population. Other springs appear and disappear in response to seismic activity, as in Jinshan, where an earthquake in the mid-19th century triggered the formation of a spring. Taiwan is also home to an extremely rare phenomenon: hot springs that gush into the sea and produce salty thermal baths. On Green Island, off the east coast, the town of Zhaori has developed a unique spa: three large pools of naturally heated salt water have been set up directly opposite the Pacific Ocean. The hotel is quite luxurious, but admiring the sunset while splashing around in 40°C seawater guarantees a memorable experience!
The Japanese onsen heritage
Used since prehistoric times by the island's aborigines, these springs generally have a relatively low flow rate. This rustic method has a certain charm, but is nowadays only used by campers and local residents. In some cases, the volume they produce is large enough to generate waterfalls or fill naturally heated swimming pools. These are quite rare, and although the first mention of these springs dates back to the end of the 17th century, it wasn't until 1893 that a German merchant, whose name has been lost to history, founded Taiwan's first spa. He settled in Beitou, near the new capital Taipei. However, it wasn't until Japanese colonization that the use of thermal baths became a veritable fashion and took root in Taiwanese culture. Japan, a country shaped by volcanic activity, also boasts numerous hot springs. Historical texts mention their use for therapeutic purposes as far back as the early 8th century. From the early 16th century onwards, the Japanese codified this practice, known as onsen. Tokugawa Ieyasu himself, just after conquering the Shogunate that marked the start of the Edo era (1603), spent a week at the Shimane spring, receiving treatments. Theonsen has very precise etiquette, and failure to observe it is an offence, pure and simple. Before entering one of theonsen's basins, you must first rinse and soap yourself. After all, you don't go there to wash, but to practice hadaka no tsukiai, literally "naked socializing". As traditional public baths are single-sex, nudity is de rigueur, with only a small towel to cover the briefs. Once immersed, the bather usually wraps the towel around his or her head.
Nowadays, in the more touristy spas, which are more akin to a water park than a traditional onsen, bathing suits are permitted, and where mixed bathing is allowed, they are compulsory. Finally, once immersed in the pool, visitors should refrain from talking too loudly, as this is a time to relax body and mind. Theonsen experience can only be understood in the context of Shintoism and Japanese spirituality.
The Japanese settlers who arrived in Taiwan from 1895 onwards therefore brought with them the practice ofonsen, and developed spa establishments throughout the country. In March 1896, Hirado Gengo, a settler from Osaka, opened the first hotel offering thermal baths in Beitou, which, thanks to its proximity to Taipei, became the main center of hot-spring culture in Taiwan. Over the next 50 years, many other onsen opened in the country, the most famous being in Yangmingshan, Guanziling and Sichongxi. After the end of the Second World War and the exile of the Kuomintang to the archipelago, Chiang Kai-shek's government sought to eradicate the legacy of Japanese colonization and affirm the Chinese character of Taiwanese culture. Thermal baths suffered from this policy: the Taiwanese abandoned them, and the arrival of bathrooms in the home transformed their use. Whereas onsen used to represent the only daily access to hygiene for the population, they gradually became therapeutic care establishments that people visited on an occasional basis. In the 1990s, with the democratization of the country, the government sought to develop the tourist industry. Thanks to their already well-developed infrastructure, the hot springs represent a major tourist attraction. The government promoted them, and investment in new establishments led to the opening of new springs. Success was immediate.
A genuine popular culture
Today, hot springs can be found all over the country. The Beitou springs, still supplied with thermal water thanks to their proximity to the Datun volcano, are among the most popular in the country. Accessible by metro from Taipei, Beitou (or Beitou) is home to dozens of establishments, to suit all budgets, from the most modest to the most luxurious. But the most popular is undoubtedly the Public Hot Springs, located right next to the Beitou Hot Springs Museum. At weekends, they're packed with Taipei locals and their families! If you want to spend some relaxing time there, it's best to go during the week. In any case, a visit to the Beitou hot springs is a must for any stay in Taiwan. There are, however, hot springs that are much more secluded and tranquil, yet still close to Taipei. About fifteen kilometers from the terminus of the Bitan green line, the Wulai springs are highly reputed. While the village of Wulai attracts many city-dwellers at weekends, dozens of natural hot springs spring up all along the river.
All you have to do is walk a few hundred meters upstream and build your own natural bathtub there with a few stones. A memorable experience that's easy to organize from the capital.
In the south of the country, in Tainan province, the Guanziling springs are among the rarest in the world. Located at an altitude of 2,700 metres, Guanziling lies at the heart of the Taiwanese mountains. Formerly the territory of the aboriginal Pingpu tribe, the Japanese discovered a veritable treasure trove here in 1898. The springs release methane-laden thermal mud that is almost unique in the world. This highly flammable gas is also released by fumaroles, some of which have been burning uninterruptedly for hundreds of years. This exceptional natural phenomenon is best seen in the "fire and water cave", where methane gas released through a thin fissure literally burns up on the water. A cave that has inspired numerous local legends. The most famous is quite comical: a fire dragon and a water dragon once had an altercation; the ensuing fight lasted so long that no victor seemed to emerge. To conclude the debate, the gods decided to reverse the roles: the fire dragon became a water dragon, and vice versa. From this defeat of both parties, the cave was born. A popular love song, "Love for Guanziling", has made these springs famous, and so they are much frequented by the Taiwanese.
For those who would like to experience Japanese onsen culture, some establishments offer a traditional Japanese hot spring experience. One of the oldest onsen was built for the Japanese government in 1939, in the northern city of Jinshan. Formerly known as the "New Tower Hot Spring", it is one of the country's oldest hotels specializing in spa treatments. Proof of Chiang Kai-shek's lack of interest inonsen culture, the building was transformed into a military fort, in anticipation of a landing by Communist troops. The Taiwanese army blocked off the hot spring, and the "New Tower Hot Spring" was long forgotten. With the threat of a Chinese invasion diminishing over time, the military gradually abandoned the site. All that remained was a ruin when a group of entrepreneurs decided to restore the old hot spring. Now fully functional, the spring, renamed Governor-General Hot Spring, opened its doors in 2000 in a magnificent setting and continues today to keep Taiwan'sonsen tradition alive.
In this guide, we have listed not only the most renowned public and private establishments, but also a number of wild springs scattered throughout the country. Although they are sometimes difficult to access, finding a hot spring lost in the middle of the mountains while wandering through the jungle is one of the most magical moments of a stay in Taiwan. To find them, we used an interactive Google map, the Taiwan Hot Springs Master Map, which is easily found online with a simple Internet search. This map lists over 150 springs across the country, and indicates whether a commercial establishment manages it, whether the flow is strong enough to build a natural bathtub, or simply whether the spring still exists. A real mine of information, unfortunately only in English, but still very practical to use.
