A complex archipelago
Taiwan is first and foremost an archipelago whose main island lies in the Pacific Ocean, off the southeast coast of the Asian continent, at the crossroads of shipping routes between Japan, Chinese Fujian and the Philippines. 394 km long and 144 km wide, the main island covers an area of 36,000 km² (95% of the territory), a little more than four times the size of Corsica. Taiwan also includes the Penghu (Pescadores) archipelago, the islands of Kinmen (Quemoy) and Matsu, as well as dozens of islets, including Green Island and Orchid Island. The Penghu archipelago comprises 64 islets, halfway between China and Taiwan, covering an area of 126 km². Quemoy (Kinmen) comprises 12 islets, the closest of which is just 2,310 meters from China's Fujian province. These Taiwanese possessions are claimed by the People's Republic of China, which attempted to seize them during the Cold War. On the same line as Kinmen lies the Matsu archipelago, the country's northernmost point. Some of these islands are actually small strips of land or simple uninhabited atolls, but they enable Taiwan to extend the size of its exclusive economic zone (EEZ) - a maritime space over which a coastal state exercises sovereign rights in terms of resource exploration and use. This is a delicate geopolitical situation, since many conflicts between the various players in the region concern the delimitation of their EEZs.
An island of relief
Although links with its Chinese neighbor were not very developed until the 16th century, Taiwan is only separated from the Middle Kingdom by a 160 km-wide strait, which Western sailors aptly named the Strait of Formosa. As the only true agricultural plains are to be found to the west of the island, it was in this thin coastal strip that the Chinese settlement of Taiwan was able to take root. The rest of Taiwan is 65% high jungle-covered mountains, long the exclusive territory of the aborigines who have inhabited the archipelago since Neolithic times. Constant tectonic pressure has given Taiwan its most distinctive feature: a 270 km mountain range with over 100 peaks rising above 3,000 meters. Among these giants, Yushan (Jade Mountain), at 3,952 meters, remains the island's highest peak, as well as one of the highest in all of Southeast Asia. Foothills lead to plateaus and coastal plains to the west and south, while the east coast remains rugged, with sheer cliffs that seem to plunge into the Pacific Ocean.
A violent nature
Much of Taiwan's landscape is linked to the island's seismic-volcanic activity. In the north, although the volcanoes have long since ceased to be active, numerous volcanic phenomena can be observed in Yangmingshan National Park, where hot springs and sulfur-laden fumaroles erupt from the rock. This sign of volcanic activity can also be seen in many places, thanks to the hot springs scattered throughout the country, some of which have been developed as spas, but most of which are in their natural state. Taiwan also boasts rare cold springs rich in carbon dioxide, sulfur and silica. Ancient volcanic activity, coupled with a dense network of underground canals, favours the development of this natural phenomenon. Although volcanic activity seems to have been reduced to these minor phenomena, and no new eruptions are to be expected, the island's very significant seismic activity still shapes the relief today. Taiwan straddles two tectonic plates: the Philippines and the Yangtze (southeast China). As a result, earthquakes occur regularly. The most violent was undoubtedly that of April 21, 1935, when over 3,200 people died and almost 55,000 homes were destroyed. In recent memory, however, the earthquake of September 21, 1999 stands out. Measuring 7.3 on the Richter scale, the epicenter was right in the heart of the Central Mountains. After numerous aftershocks, the total death toll was 2,104, with hundreds more missing, thousands injured and over 100,000 homeless. Taichung and Nantou were the regions hardest hit by the earthquake. Today, Japanese-inspired anti-seismic standards are mandatory for all new construction. But in April 2024, several severe earthquakes hit Taiwan's east coast, notably in Hualien, causing extensive damage and leaving hundreds dead and injured.
A land of contrasts
While nature can be violent and destructive in Taiwan, it also offers landscapes of unparalleled beauty and complexity. The Eastern Rift Valley, for example, is the result of tectonic plate thrusts, and lies on Taiwan's largest fault line, where the Chinese and Philippine plates meet. In the northeast of the island, Taiwan's former industrial stronghold, even the old gold and coal mines, abandoned for decades, have given way to hiking trails. The Taroko Gorge, a unique national park in the east, is a perfect example, with marble cliffs sometimes reaching 1,000 meters. The valley is hemmed in by peaks, alluvial plains and river deltas carrying a wealth of sediments that have given it the nickname "land of milk and honey". Discovering Taroko National Park is sure to be one of the most unforgettable moments of a stay in Taiwan, and you'll need at least several days to explore it. Another out-of-the-ordinary phenomenon is the lunar world of Tianliao, in the south-west of the island, in the Kaohsiung district, a landscape that stands in stark contrast to the lush vegetation of the rest of the island. It's a shale chiselled by rain, the movement of which has carved gullies in the stone, preventing any form of vegetation.
The central mountains
It's impossible to talk about Taiwan's geography without mentioning the majestic mountains of central Taiwan. With over 100 peaks exceeding 3,000 meters, Taiwan's alpine terrain is one of the island's most important features. In addition to Yushan (3,952 meters), designated Yushan National Park and also known as Jade Mountain, the highest peak in Southeast Asia, other mountains are also worth a visit. Xueshan, formerly known as Mount Sylvia, is located in Shei-pa National Park and reaches 3,886 metres. Nanhu Mountain (3,742 meters) is home to an endemic species, the Nanhu salamander, also known as the ice salamander, which only lives at altitudes of over 3,000 meters. A surprising species, since the climate here is hostile to almost all other forms of life. From 2,500 meters upwards, coniferous vegetation gives way to arid slopes, covered with snow in winter. The importance of mountains in the daily lives of the Taiwanese people is well established: hiking is one of their favorite pastimes. The challenge of climbing the country's 100 highest peaks is considered a real feat!
Coastal beaches
At the southern tip of the island, as the last foothills of the central mountains gradually subside, the landscape changes radically: to the southeast, strong Pacific winds combined with rocky cliffs devoid of vegetation and coves sheltering pretty deserted beaches recall the panoramas of Brittany's wild coastline. To the south-west, the Kenting National Park region is relatively sheltered from ocean storms, and the surrounding hills are covered with forests famous for their fallow deer. The southern tip of the island is also home to the most idyllic beaches. However, there are two reasons for choosing the most sheltered beaches. Firstly, because the gusts of wind are sometimes so strong that you can't hear the sound of the sea. And secondly, because ocean currents dump an incalculable amount of plastic waste. Since most of them are not maintained, real layers of plastic are superimposed, and the local authorities unfortunately pay little attention to this veritable ecological disaster.
Large urban centers
Moving northwards along the west coast, mangrove swamps gradually give way to the great agricultural plains of the west, Taiwan's demographic and economic heartland. Most industrial facilities are located on the outskirts of major cities such as Kaohsiung, Tainan and Taichung, and to the north-west of the gigantic megalopolis comprising Taipei and Taoyuan. Here, population density often exceeds 1,000 inhabitants per km², whereas urban centers to the east of the country, such as Taitung and Hualien, have only 80 inhabitants per km². As the growth of all these megacities dates back to recent decades, their construction has followed urban standards inspired by the American model. Compared to other Southeast Asian cities, Taiwan's development has been far less chaotic. But the skyscrapers as far as the eye can see are a reminder that Taiwan is first and foremost an urban world. If the west coast is a nightmare for agoraphobics, it's worth remembering that untouched wilderness is never far away. Less than an hour from Taipei, it's possible to find yourself alone in the middle of nature. In the capital itself, all you have to do is head for Elephant Mountain to escape the urban hustle and bustle, thanks to a hiking trail lost in the vegetation that winds for dozens of kilometers through the surrounding hills. Taiwan reveals itself as a land of extreme contrasts, worthy of weeks of travel to discover all its treasures!
