Mayotte, the island in the lagoon. It's a flattering nickname that is not usurped: from the plane's porthole you can see the multitude of shades of blue reflected around the two inhabited islands, Petite-Terre and Grande-Terre, and the thirty or so islets that surround them. It is on the smallest one that the plane lands, in Pamandzi, before boarding a barge to reach Mamoudzou once the luggage is recovered. The stay can then begin: welcome to Mayotte!
Mayotte, from one island to another
A few minutes are enough to immerse oneself in local life aboard this boat, which is used daily by workers, merchants and holidaymakers alike. We speak French, Shimaore, Shibushi and sometimes Malagasy, an effervescence that immediately plunges the newcomer into a total change of scenery. To the left and to the right, you can see women, lots of women. Called "bouénis" in shimaore, they are adorned with flowers and jewellery and wrapped in beautiful colourful salouvas. Proud, laughing and elegant, they are the heart and strength of the Mahoran society. Both islands, 95% Muslim, practice a tolerant and matriarchal Islam, integrating African, Malagasy and European influences. Having become a French department following the referendum of March 2009, Mayotte has in no way lost its traditions, the most emblematic of which remains that of the big weddings that take place every year in July-August
Arrived in the capital Mamoudzou, it is often here that one recovers a rental car before starting the adventure along the coast to reach a beautiful hotel by the sea. The tour of the island begins with the villages of the North from where it is possible to see the Prévoyance reef and the Choizil islets whose golden beaches are lapped by the lapping of the turquoise waters. Smart tip: colours are most beautiful at low tide. Activities and travel on the island are very often calculated according to the tidal schedules that shape the landscape.
All along the route, we will be able to observe scenes of daily life: in front of the houses the men throw themselves into frenzied parts of dominoes while the women braid themselves or prepare their mzindzano. Prepared on the basis of crushed sandalwood and mixed with water, these beauty masks that adorn women's faces are both a skin care, a protection against the sun and a beautiful ornament that comes in many shapes and designs. Life is sweet in the heat of the moment. In apparent freedom, the zebus graze and the goats happily romp through the alleys, a guaranteed change of scenery.
A unique fauna and flora in the world
The first day is already coming to an end, the sun is fading as the cries of the dogfish perched in the trees rise. For these big bats, nightfall rhymes with a feast of exotic fruits. That we envy them! Also present on the branches, the makis, star mammals of Mayotte and cousins of the monkey, they also shake in search of a possible banana to end the day. A tasty snack appreciated after hours of siesta in the sun. Similar to their cousins in Madagascar, the lemurus fulvus mayottensis would have been imported to the Big Island to develop there without predators, except man, making them not very shy, to our great delight.
In the village, the evening lengthens in the softness of the night, here it is never cold. After the prayer, the men gather at the foot of the trees to chat, dressed in their kandzus and wearing kofia, sometimes hand-embroidered, while the "mamas pichettis" settle down in the streets and light their charcoal barbecues to prepare mabawas (chicken wings) or skewers with a delicious aroma. As an accompaniment, breadfruit fries or grilled bananas and manioc are a feast for a few pennies. By eating local, we give ourselves the chance to live a privileged moment with the Mahorais, often shy at first glance but they will never refuse a smile. Friendliness, authenticity and simplicity are always in order, whether with friends or with the Mzungus, light-skinned visitors, a beautiful lesson in life. The following days can be devoted to the discovery of the Mahorais lagoon, an exceptional natural heritage and one of the largest closed lagoons in the world.
Its double coral barrier reef is 150 km long, providing its fauna and flora with a water temperature that never drops below 25°C and protected from currents. Cetaceans know it and seem to have spread the word: from mid-July to mid-October Mayotte becomes a place of pleasure for humpback whales that come here to reproduce and educate their offspring in the secrets of underwater life. Sperm whales, reef sharks, dugongs, whale sharks and dolphins are also present to complete the show. On site, diving clubs, sailing boats and boat taxis are organized to make you enjoy the entertainment and organize safaris in the open sea or on the islets. Beginners can also try their hand at beach snorkeling to familiarize themselves with this natural aquarium. Sea turtles are legion in the shallow sea grass beds and are not shy in the approach of the visitor.
Perfumes mahorais
Very cheerfully spoiled by Mother Nature, Mayotte also benefits from a generous nature on the land side. Mangoes, cocoa, vanilla, jasmine, nutmeg, cinnamon, everything seems to grow on this volcanic island with fertile soils. Exploring the bush along the west coast, and more particularly the village of Combani and its Ylang and Vanilla ecomuseum, allows you to learn a little more, from visiting the plantations to the spice processing workshops. However, the mythical essence of the Big Island that earned Mayotte its nickname of "the island of perfumes" remains ylang ylang. This small yellow flower that grows on the slopes of the island is distilled to make an essential oil used by the greatest perfumers and notably in the composition of Chanel n° 5. Funny peculiarity of the island: here the Committee of Tourism (CDT) does not attribute stars to the structures but Ylang flowers.
The visit is over, heading towards the south of the island, drier and more arid, whose vegetation is reminiscent of that of its Malagasy neighbour, which is only 300 kilometres away. The beach of N'gouja, lined with baobab trees of unlikely shapes, is an essential stopover for swimming in the company of the big green turtles that feed on the sea grasses throughout the day. From there, you can climb Mount Choungui, which dominates the South from its 594 m of altitude. The 2 hour round trip is relatively simple. Its 360° panorama over the south of the island however largely rewards all the efforts made: humid forest in the centre, the village of Choungui at the foot of the mountain, the indented reliefs of the coasts and the bay of Bouéni, and above all, the intense blue of the lagoon.
Heading east
From the south you can then complete the loop by going up the east coast: stop in front of the biggest baobab tree at Musical Plage, boat trip on the white sand islet in front of Pointe Sazilé, or spend the night in a bivouac to watch the turtles laying their eggs. In Bandrélé, the visit of the salt ecomuseum and its harvest in the mangroves is an enriching stage of the trip. From there, you can leave the mainland again to go out to sea and discover the Passe Longogori, known as the "S-shaped pass". This is the opportunity to do a first dive if you haven't already done so. Finally, slightly larger budgets will be able to afford an overflight of the island by microlight. A show of unparalleled beauty!
Back in Mamoudzou to finish the trip, we will take advantage of the passage in town to visit the covered market and discover the thousand and one spices and exotic fruits and vegetables that dress the stalls, before taking the barge back to Petite Île. Kwaheri ("goodbye") Mayotte, and see you next time!
Smart info
When? Mayotte enjoys a pleasant tropical climate all year round. The hotter and wetter summer season is between November and March, while the southern winter, from May to November, is drier and windier. July-September is whale season.
Getting there. Air Austral is the only airline to offer two weekly direct flights Paris Roissy-CDG / Dzaoudzi (Mayotte) in 9 hrs 50 min
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