Marine Mammals
More than 20 species of dolphins and whales have been recorded in Polynesia. To avoid the rigors of the southern winter, Antarctic humpback whales migrate to Polynesia's temperate waters to give birth, rest and nurse in safety. Every year, from the end of July to the end of October, mothers and calves visit the coasts of the Australs (Rurutu in particular), the Society and, to a lesser extent, the Tuamotus.
In addition to the high concentration of whales and calves at this time of year, Polynesia is also home to a large population of dolphins, which like to frolic near the passes, as on Rangiroa in the Tiputa pass. The most common species are the bottlenose dolphin (mainly seen in the Marquesas, Tuamotus and Bora Bora), and the spinner dolphin (more accustomed to the clear, warm waters of the Society Islands), of which more than 200 specimens have been recorded by American marine biologist Michael Poole over a decade of observation.
Sharks, no psychosis
A dense predatory fauna awaits you near the passes and off the reefs. His Majesty the shark(mao) also inhabits Polynesian waters. But rest assured, having long since had their fill of dense fish, you have nothing to fear from them.
The grey shark, around 2 m long, is the most common: you'd be surprised if you didn't come across one on a dive. The slightly yellowish lemon shark and the tiger shark can reach up to 4 m in length. Extremely powerful, the latter must be respected and kept in eye contact, even if no attack has ever been recorded. Deeper down, the great hammerhead shark usually roams the bottom of the passes, at depths of 50 m, on the lookout for leopard rays or small mantas. However, it is possible to spot one at 15 m if it has found a prey it is interested in; it is most often seen at Rangiroa.
Closer to the beaches, attracted by the enticing scent of fishing rods or the scraps of generous cooks, blacktip sharks (1.6 m at most) are usually the delight of amateur photographers. Sleeper and whitetip sharks also frequent calm waters; in Fakarava, a pleasant seaside snack bar is appropriately named the Snack du Requin Dormeur (Sleeper Shark Snack)..
A fish parade
Polynesia is an isolated island with almost 800 species of fish, divided into 90 families, but their abundance and beauty never cease to amaze. A piece of bread in the sea, and thousands of colorful fish come rushing in: coachfish, surgeonfish, groupers, napoleons, picassos, triggerfish, parrotfish, sergeant majors, long-nosed nasons, clownfish, angelfish, pufferfish, porcupinefish, butterflyfish, zebrafish... The list goes on! Just put your head under the water to reach them, and they'll come to meet you calmly and without shyness.
The most dangerous fish are the stonefish, which lie slyly at the bottom in their stone suits, waiting for you to step on them and inject their deadly poison. Dragon-fish are just as dangerous, but attractive despite their red and white spines. So beware!
Stingrays - gray, stingray, leopard and spotted - also grace the lagoons, and it's not uncommon to encounter them. As for the mythical manta rays, they are more likely to be found on drop-offs and passes than in lagoons (except in Maupiti and Tikehau), but you may be lucky enough to see an enigmatic dark spot pass beneath your pirogue (not so enigmatic, in fact!). This sumptuous species can reach a wingspan of 4 meters. Beware, however: although stingrays are not aggressive, we often forget that their tails are equipped with spines. Swimmers or divers who inadvertently step on them may be exposed to severe local trauma. Fatal stings are very rare, but the accident is certainly very painful.
Turtles in danger
Shy and cautious, they come to lay their eggs on deserted beaches. There are five species of sea turtle in Polynesia: the leatherback(Dermochelys coriacea), the green(Chelonia mydas), the hawksbill(Eretmochelys imbricata), the loggerhead(Caretta caretta) and the olive ridley(Lepidochelys olivacea), all of which are threatened and therefore protected.
Sacred animals in Polynesia, turtles were once the object of precise rituals; in some atolls, they were even bred on a small scale in family parks. Since 2020, the Isles of Scilly and Bellinghausen Atoll (motu One), in the Society archipelago, have been classified as an integral nature reserve. Despite this, the population has declined significantly: on the atolls of Mopelia and Scilly, a 94% drop in the number of specimens has been recorded. Poaching remains a constant threat, and marine reserves do not always prevent it.
Mollusks and shellfish
Some 1,500 species of mollusc also inhabit Polynesian waters, with greater endemicity in the Marquesas (around 20%), the Australs, and to a lesser extent in the Society and Tuamotu-Gambier.
Tahiti's lagoon is also known for its collector's shells: some, such as the porcelain(Cypraea tigris) or the Golden Fleece(Conus textile), have become rare. The giant newt(Charonia tritonis), the red helmet (Cassis rufa) and the horned helmet(Cassis cornuta) are virtually extinct. Natural stocks of pearl oysters(Pinctada margaritifera) have been overexploited, and the species' genetic diversity has been reduced. Here and there, other shellfish are scattered across the sand, such as spotted vermets and beautiful clams with fluorescent lips.
If you're passing through Huahine, Frank from Motu Trésor, a conchyliology enthusiast, will be delighted to show you around his small shell museum and explain the different shells.
Be careful if you're planning to bring back a shell in your suitcase: some are dangerous. This is particularly true of the cone, sharp as a spindle, which injects its poison when you touch the tip. So be careful with your hands, and always check that the shell is empty!
Coral reefs
The richest region of the coral reef world lies in the Western Pacific and Southeast Asia. Polynesia lies on the eastern border of this region and is therefore relatively poor in coral species, but the sheer size of the territory means that the fauna is varied and specific. There are around 170 species of coral, belonging to some 50 different genera. Eighteen of these species are endemic to the region.
Unfortunately, the latest studies show that the reefs on several of the Society Islands have become dangerously degraded in recent decades. Coral decay and unbalanced algal populations are grim warnings. Chronic cyclones and the infestation of Acanthaster (a species of coral-predatory starfish) are other concerns, as is the exploitation of black coral in the Leeward Islands (used for jewelry), and population growth which is jeopardizing the stability of this rich ecosystem. The fringing part of the islands is of course the most affected, as it is the most exposed to human activity.
Birds
Few in number, the birds(manu) have long been used to adorn chiefs. Some spend their entire lives on the same island, while others are migratory, often threatening the former in their native habitat.
Some very common species can be spotted everywhere, such as the Vini, a cute little gray-headed sparrow. Keep your eyes peeled for the Gould's harrier, a bird of prey, and the Society salangane. Overhead, frigatebirds, gannets and petrels flit about. As for the kaveka (sooty tern), it concentrates in the hundreds of thousands on certain motus in the Tuamotu lagoons or in the Marquesas; excellent omelettes are made from their eggs..
Other small animals
You won't come across any dangerous or venomous animals: not a single snake, scorpion or spider! Geckos and margouillats, useful and rather pretty little reptiles, eat insects including mosquitoes. Quite abundant, the latter can carry ferocious diseases such as dengue fever, zika and chikungunya. Nonos, voracious little flies, are less dangerous but more aggressive. You're also likely to come across those horrible cockroaches, which can measure up to 5 cm! This doesn't necessarily indicate a lack of hygiene - it's a fact of life in all these warm destinations with their humid tropical climates. The most dangerous insects are the scolopendras, or hundred-footed beetles, which can grow up to 20 cm long, injecting venom with their fangs. Painful, but not deadly!
A lush vegetation
Dense vegetation covers the islands with a thick carpet of color, from the beaches to the mountain tops. The vast valleys of the larger islands glow with the thousand red dots that flamboyant trees spread across their slopes, while frangipani flowers add yellow, and tiare multiple white dots.
Vegetation varies greatly from archipelago to archipelago. On the atolls, the difficult conditions of salt and poor soils have allowed very few species to establish themselves. However, a vineyard has been planted on Rangiroa, with astonishing success! In the Australs, on the other hand, the climate is so cool that all kinds of fruit and vegetables can be grown; Rurutu is even called the "granary of Tahiti". As for the Marquesas, they have a few endemic varieties. Generally speaking, coconut palms, pandanus, tamanu and fruit trees such as the famous breadfruit tree(uru), mango, papaya, guava, banana and noni (very smelly but, according to some, a real natural medicine), are the most frequently encountered. Moorea is also famous for its pineapple plantations.
The land of flowers
For many, the divine floral scents that perfume the tropical setting remain the most lasting memory of a stay in Polynesia. In fact, if you travel with Air Tahiti Nui, flight attendants will present you with a tiare flower, the emblem of Tahiti, as soon as you board the plane: this is the beginning of your journey of the senses... This flower and its bewitching fragrance will accompany you throughout Polynesia.
Other essences include frangipani, which produces yellow and white flowers with a powerful fragrance. Flamboyant, native to Madagascar, unfurls small red flowers that decorate the valleys. Hibiscus blooms in a range of colors: yellow, orange and sometimes bright red. Jasmine, ylang-ylang and spearmint are also part of the olfactory landscape.
Made into necklaces or crowns, worn in the ear or hair, to decorate the house or car, or simply placed in a bowl of water to embalm, flowers are an essential part of life in Tahiti.
If you'd like to follow Polynesian fashion, the flower is worn on the left ear if your heart is taken, on the right if it's not... And unofficially, we're told, on the left, upside down, if you're taken but open!
