The exciting life and richness of a multi-ethnic society!
The islands of Saint-Barthélémy and Saint-Martin are truly multi-ethnic societies. If one assumes that the "pure souche" Saint-Martinois (considered to be those, regardless of skin color, who lived on the island before the first sub-prefecture was set up in 1963) are no more than 15%, the rest are made up of groups from a wide variety of countries (France, Haiti, Dominica, Dominican Republic, India, Jamaica, etc.). Of the 40,000 partly French inhabitants, an estimated one-third were immigrants from all over the Caribbean during the real estate boom of the 1980s. Each brought with them their own customs and traditions, which have become entangled with the existing ones.
A colorful palette of atmospheres
So, as you stroll along, your journey will be a perpetual mise en abyme, a journey within a journey. You'll move from one atmosphere to another, with the impression of being transported to different places and social strata: from the Marseillaise-style aperitif at the Marina Port Royale in Marigot, to the bohemian-chic lunch with your feet in the sand at Orient Bay. From the Creole ambience of Grand Case to the Miami Beach feel of Philipsburg's Front Street. From Marigot's colorful Caribbean market to Maho's Las Vegas vibe. From the gospel music emanating from temples and churches to the brightly lit strip clubs. From the luxurious villas of Terres Basses to the run-down houses of Sandy Ground. Saint-Martin is a bit of everything and its opposite. A veritable melting pot scattered across a patchwork of urban development.
Music in the heart: St. Martin's DNA
Your discovery of Saint-Martin will be musical! Whether you're on one side of the island or the other, music is everywhere. It's part of the islanders' DNA. Whether it's on the streets, in the lolos as in Grand Case, at Sunday barbecues on the beach as in Mullet Bay, in school playgrounds during recess, or in beach bars like Karacter in Simpson Bay, life is punctuated by music.
You'll pass bars and restaurants where you'll hear kompa (the music of Haitian dances and parties), merengue (of Dominican and Puerto Rican origin), reggae and its variants ( roots, dub, etc.) orragga (launched by the famous U-Roy), soca and R'n'B. Old bel-air tunes, laghia (a combat dance) or calenda (a lascivious dance), biguine (probably a Congolese dance that came to the West Indies via the Spanish route), waltz, mazurka piquée. Yesterday's Touffé Yin-Yin, today's Zouk are proof that you can quickly get carried away by the distinctive, groovy character of West Indian sounds. Ragga and zouk love growl against the nostalgic musical fragrance of the past. At weekends, the fervor of gospel music brings souls together and provokes the curious and respectful interest of foreign visitors. The steel band is very famous in Saint-Martin. It's based on this typical island percussion instrument, which resembles a kind of steel drum. In fact, they have their own groups, such as The Gunslingers Steel Band, which performs at festive events.
Education and social protection
On the French side, public schools are present from nursery school to college. At the same time, there is a plethora of private schools at all levels, which French nationals and foreign expatriates generally prefer to the public sector. The difficulty with public schools is that they have to cope with students of different nationalities who speak little or no French. Uniforms are the norm on the Dutch side. The only university is located on the Dutch side. On the French side, French law applies in terms of health, retirement and social security contributions. All institutions are present (schools, hospitals, health professionals, etc.).
Contrasts in adult venues
The flip side of the Caribbean is the existence of places of contrasts. Adult entertainment is permitted on the Dutch side of the island, with erotic dance clubs where prostitution is regulated, and even outright brothels, but not on the French side. In Simpson Bay, it's not uncommon to see a bouncy castle and children playing during the day in front of a nightclub. The many casinos, such as the Sonesta on the Dutch side, welcome tourists all day long, even in shorts!
A visible precariousness
As you drive around the island from one neighborhood to the next, it's hard to ignore the social inequalities that characterize its sociology. On the French side, working-class neighborhoods such as Quartier d'Orléans and Sandy Ground have a bad reputation. But they're not cut-throats either, and there's no need to be prejudiced: the vast majority of people who live there are charming and welcoming. But, as in many places around the world, it's important to avoid flaunting your valuables or wandering around at night. In short, use common sense. Above all, watch out for two-wheeler drivers who have fun overtaking and rear-wheeling. In fact, wheeling is the national sport!
