New Caledonia is the story of a small country with a big heart, set like an offering of nature in the midst of the translucent waters of the Pacific. Whether you call it New Caledonia, Caillou or Kanaky, this little piece of France leaves no one indifferent. And on Sunday, November 4, 2018, New Caledonian voters were called to the polls to decide on the future of the archipelago and its possible independence. Participation was massive (80.63%) and the "no" vote won with 56.4% of the votes. The Caillou will therefore remain French. The opportunity to (re)discover this little piece of France in paradise.
Lulled by the waves of the world's largest lagoon, this rich, bloody and spiritual land is one of the oldest on the planet, still inhabited by silent witnesses of fauna and flora already present in the early days of existence. To say that it literally sticks to the skin would be a sweet euphemism... Its ochre mountains are its backbone and their mineral-rich footprint is found everywhere. They form the vast massif of the Central Range, whose reddish sides contrast intensely with the emerald green of deep forests, the white mother-of-pearl of deserted beaches and the sapphire blue of such a generous sea. The coral reef jealously guards its infinite charms and reveals its shimmering turquoise pallets, between the swell of the open sea and the absolute calm of a coastline with fine sand. Wherever the eye looks, the delight is permanent. If we say that Ouvéa and Ile des Pins are the closest islands to paradise, the description can easily be extended to the whole archipelago, even if we have to admit that the Loyalty and their southern neighbour are the jewels in the Caledonian crown. The eternal cradle of the Kanak soul, the entire territory is imbued with a fascinating Melanesian culture, which is at the centre of a great ethnic diversity, influenced by Europeans, Polynesians and Asians
And, not to spoil anything, when you travel on the Pebble you feel like you are alone in the world. An eloquent figure, only 14.5 inhabitants per square kilometre! And more than half of the population lives in Nouméa. Almost ten times less than in France, less than in Finland itself! By way of comparison, French Polynesia has almost 65 inhabitants/km² and Mauritius has more than 680 inhabitants/km². There is no risk of being on top of each other at the beach: putting down your towel and lying on the sand is no longer an achievement, sometimes one towel per beach (!). You will not miss the doughnut sellers and you will feel like you have New Caledonia just for you..
Land of adventure and eternal spring
New Caledonia encourages visitors to venture even further and encourages unexpected encounters! On the west coast, the ranch cowboys will take you to the heart of Grande Terre on unforgettable horseback rides, with deer hunting as a bonus for fans. To the south, red earth and enigmatic landscapes remind us of what New Caledonia owes to nickel. The east coast, with its exuberant tropical vegetation, takes you to the heart of the Kanak country and its traditions. This is about Kanaky. On the islands, meetings with the locals are facilitated and unusual discoveries are still legion, from the vanilla plantations of Lifou to the remains of the prison of Ile des Pins.
And we can walk the Pebble in all seasons. New Caledonia enjoys a tropical climate, tempered by the ocean and the southwest trade winds. A mild climate that has earned New Caledonia the nickname of the Island of Eternal Spring! A change of scenery for metropolitan residents: come and spend Christmas in Nouméa (25°C on average). So bring bermuda shorts or skirt, t-shirt and shirt without forgetting sunscreen and sunglasses!
Beautiful encounters and a rich culture
Due to the lack of significant tourist flows, New Caledonia does not always have trained guides and few tourist tours are established. So make your choice and let yourself go as you meet people, with a smile and dialogue as the keys. Visit the tribes where the inhabitants will generally be willing to take you for a walk in fabulous places. It is essential to show respect for custom and your hosts: you do not enter people's homes without being invited. Take your time to discover the other... It is also a chance to get off the beaten track to share some island treasures and discover a thousand-year-old culture. The first inhabitants, the Melanesians (or Kanaks), settled there 3,000 years ago. Kanak traditions are still very much alive, and particularly notable in the Northern Province and the Loyalty Islands. You may have the opportunity to experience tribal life: you will have to "do the custom", that is, show your respect for the "chief". You will then be welcomed as family members. The gold medal goes to the Loyalty Islands, particularly Lifou where islanders are truly open-minded. In the east, the Kanaks greet you with a wave and are always ready to talk to you, as long as you take the time to ask them the right questions without hurrying them. Don't forget the local saying: "don't worry about it", the ideal password. On the west coast, you enter the cowboy lands where the colonial heritage is well represented. If you don't stop at the rough attitude of the bushes, you will have a good time in the cottages that open to green tourism and offer beautiful horse rides
Being close to the locals is also a great opportunity to discover a mixed cuisine, which draws its richness and diversity from the crossbreeding of peoples. Deer, dogfish, roe, snail, crab, crab, lobster, fish, yam, taro, manioc, coconut, tropical fruits, these are the ingredients found in Caledonian cuisine. Whether choked for Melanesians, steamed for Asians, in European-style sauces or raw in the Tahitian way, there is something for everyone in nature. And it is impossible to leave the island without having tasted a bougna, the traditional Melanesian dish
Exceptional outdoor activities and seabed
Often highlighted for its lagoon and turquoise waters, New Caledonia is much more than an island with beautiful beaches. A natural destination par excellence, Le Caillou is a real paradise for hikers. Between April and September, many raids are organized on the relief of Grande Terre, and anyone can register. Here, the range of sports practiced and accessible is at the height of the sites: canyoning, mountain biking, hiking, horse riding, golf, ULM, paragliding and parachuting, canoeing, sailing and windsurfing, fly-surfing... And above all, scuba diving! Here you will discover one of the largest lagoons in the world but above all a reef listed on UNESCO's prestigious World Heritage List. Surrounded by a 1,600 km coral reef, the lagoon is home to a variety of fauna and flora that will delight divers and swimmers. You may encounter parrot fish, clown fish, celestial groupers, turtles and manta rays in these transparent waters whose temperature rarely drops below 21°C. By classifying 6 different sites, UNESCO offered a very beautiful gift to the Caledonians and also gave them a great responsibility: to watch over and protect the world's second largest reef complex.
In short, take a swim in the crystal clear waters of a lagoon before leaving for work, land on a sandy beach to admire the sunset before going home, stop wearing a turtleneck sweater, go on vacation 10 minutes away by boat... We could easily imagine living all year round in New Caledonia... and why not? In any case, the archipelago is still French.
Smart info
When? When? It is well known that New Caledonia's temperate tropical climate offers a spring all year round. The period to avoid due to the rains is between January and March, with a particularly rainy February. But don't worry, even during the "froide " season, temperatures don't drop below 20°C en day!
Getting there. Price of a return flight from Paris to Nouméa: from €1,400, average price €1,600. Count at least 24 hours, up to 35 hours depending on the connections
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