Islands to preserve
Jersey was the first destination to receive a Green Globe Award for its commitment to the environment. On its country roads, the speed limit is 15 mph (25 km/h); cyclists, horse riders and pedestrians have priority over cars. Similarly, Guernsey introduced a system of "Ruettes tranquiles" in 2000. They help maintain the tranquility of the countryside and better manage car traffic on the island. On Herm, Sark and Alderney, nature is magnificent and totally protected. The absence of cars on the first two islands means that they are free from pollution, while on the third, almost all housing is concentrated in the town of Sainte-Anne. As for the farmers, they don't use pesticides.
But not everything is rosy. One of the main problems is the excessive number of increasingly imposing vehicles (unnecessary 4x4s...) on the three main islands. In Guernsey, for example, there are two cars per inhabitant! Waste is also a real problem. What is to be done with the growing tons of domestic waste on such small islands? The population is strongly encouraged to sort, but much remains to be done.
Protected areas. On the whole, the landscape is highly varied: marshes, dunes, beaches, cliffs, meadows and woods. This diversity of environments has given rise to a wealth of flora and fauna. To preserve them, several sites have been designated as sites of special interest and have become protected natural areas. Thanks to their mild, almost southern climate, the islands are home to numerous species of plants and animals, most of which are endangered or rarely seen in the region. The cliffs and rocks provide refuge for thousands of migratory birds. Some islets, such as the Lihou near Guernsey and the Etacs off Alderney, are classified as bird sanctuaries. They are closed to visitors during the nesting season. Near inland freshwater reserves, observation posts have been built for birdwatchers.
To help visitors appreciate the breadth of the islands' natural resources, tourist offices offer a number of themed guided walks. Specialized guides are also available for those interested in botany and ornithology.
An abundant fauna
During the boat trip, you may be lucky enough to spot dolphins, grey seals as you approach the coast or even basking sharks off Alderney. Don't worry, the latter are completely harmless and feed on plankton. The Anglo-Norman archipelago is a remarkable site in terms of the species it shelters, and is notable for the presence of uncommon animal species such as the red squirrel, the agile frog and the blond hedgehog. On the sea side, life abounds. Scuba diving is available throughout the archipelago, and the clear waters offer excellent viewing conditions. Those who prefer to stay on land can head to the rocky coasts to observe more wildlife than on the beaches. Keep your eyes peeled for goby fish in a pool formed at low tide. If you lift the seaweed, you may catch a glimpse of a blennie or a sea hare. A veritable Eden, Herm's Shell Beach is covered in seashells.
Marine mammals. Playful, they often follow speedboats and sailing boats. The most common species on the English Channel coast is the bottlenose dolphin(Tursiops truncatus), also known as the blower dolphin or porpoise (although it has nothing to do with real porpoises). Its population numbers around a hundred in the western Cotentin region. The tursiops averages 3 m in length. It can be identified by its short, broad beak and its dark gray coloring with a pale gray underside. The common dolphin(Delphinus delphis) is another common species in this area. Smaller than its cousin the tursiops, it measures around 2 m in length. It is easily identified by its numerous jumps, which cause an intense bubbling at the surface of the sea. It has a very dark dorsal coloration, with a yellowish spot in a triangular area and a grayish one at the back. A rarer sight, the grampus(Grampus griseus), also known as the grey dolphin or Risso's dolphin, sometimes swims in the area. Distinctive feature: it has no beak and can reach 4 m in length. Its coloration varies, and a grampus can be ivory-white. Killer whales have sometimes been seen in the Raz Blanchard area. In January 1984, a 3.30 m rorqual ran aground at Portbail. Finally, the islands are home to colonies of grey seals. They average 2.50 m in length, and can weigh up to 300 kg.
Birds. Thanks to its low pollution levels and specific geographical location, this archipelago is a haven for a large number of migratory birds, which find fresh water and the food they need. In spring, tourists and enthusiasts alike can visit nature reserves to watch for lapwings, woodcock and plovers. In summer, it's the turn of wild geese, grebes and eiders to show their feathers. The paths that stretch along the cliffs are also strategic spots for observing birds nesting on the cliffs. The Channel Islands lie on major migration routes. Spring and autumn are the preferred seasons for birdwatching. In winter, visiting birds arrive from the north to swell the resident population. Don't forget your binoculars or spyglass!
In addition to international conventions, island-specific agreements are in place to protect birds. Alderney, for example, has two colonies of gannets, which appeared in 1940 on the islets of Etacs and Ortac. Today, they number some 5,000 nesting birds. You can approach them by boat. The spectacle is astonishing! The archipelago is also home to the famous Atlantic puffin and common guillemot (particularly at Alderney), as well as imposing colonies of great cormorants. You're sure to see them all, even if you don't remember their names. Many species of warbler inhabit the islands: the pitchou warbler, attracted by the European gorse heaths, the babbler warbler, in the coastal thickets, and various species of chickadee. The triple-banded kinglet, the black tit, the zizi bunting and the reed bunting, to name but a few, sometimes make Jersey their home.
Winter visitors will undoubtedly notice the flocks of shorebirds trotting along the beaches: oystercatcher, lapwing and gravelot. One last thing: make sure you respect the wildlife and its habitat, and keep a low profile.
The archipelago's cows. To preserve the purity of the cattle breed, it is forbidden to import cows and bulls into the islands. Originating in Jersey, the Jersey (jersiaise) is the most widespread cow in the world, with over 15 million members. The breed is one of the oldest in the world, with traces of its presence dating back over a thousand years. Its main aesthetic quality lies not in its fawn coat or black nostrils, but in its big, round eyes, highlighted by long lashes and clear glasses. This has earned her the nickname "the doe-eyed cow". It is small in size, weighing an average of 450 kg.
The Guernesiaise cow, on the other hand, is the size of a Breton cow, with slender legs and a fawn coat dotted with white spots, large clear eyes and pink nostrils. Its main quality is its rich milk, which gives its cream and butter a bright yellow or even orange color. Despite the breed's success, the glorious days of cattle are over. Financial speculation is proving more profitable. Yet while the herd is shrinking, milk production remains constant.
A wonderful garden
A wonderful, fragrant garden, the islands are a feast for the eyes. Spring is particularly favorable for wild flora. Plants such as ferns, broom (yellow flowers with smooth stems), gorse (yellow flowers with prickly stems) and heather grace the cliffs. Interesting plants and flowers can also be found in the dunes and marshes. Maritime pines, yuccas and ornamental palms give the landscape a Mediterranean flair. Excellent horticulturists, the islanders have managed to tame natural spaces, often in an attractive way. Magnificent hydrangea hedges line the walls and gardens abound with flowers. Just before summer, admire the profusion of azaleas, camellias, magnolias and rhododendrons. The parks are tastefully designed. In Jersey, visit Howard Davis Park and the orchid garden of the Eric Young Foundation; in Guernsey, don't miss Candie Gardens and Sausmarez Park. In Sark, take a detour to the Seigneurie Gardens.
Flower-growing has become a veritable industry for the islands: tulips, roses, freesias, carnations, irises, daffodils and anemones are exported in abundance to Great Britain. To complete the inventory, let's not forget the lavender fields in Jersey, from which the famous essences used in perfumery are extracted, the fragrant mimosas, the oleanders, the walls of geraniums and a few fig trees. There's a downside to this symphony of vegetation, particularly in Guernsey, where a great deal of land has been cleared so that the many greenhouses can make the most of the hours of sunshine.
