In the footsteps of history
The Channel Islands have one of the best-preserved prehistoric heritages in Europe. To help you navigate this megalithic labyrinth, here are a few key definitions. A menhir is a raised stone of commemorative or religious value. The menhir may stand alone, in a line, or in a circle, known as a cromlech. A dolmen is a megalithic monument consisting of one or more cover stones, generally flat, supported by two raised stones. This stone "table" forms the walls of a burial chamber. Passage tombs consist of one or more burial chambers of variable shape (rectangular, square, oval), covered by an earthen or stone tumulus and accessed via a narrow passage made of large stones. Not to be confused with covered aisles, long rectangular tombs known as "corridors", with walls made of imposing stone slabs that themselves support covering slabs. Then there are the cists or stone-walled boxes housing the remains of the deceased and sacred objects. All these megaliths bear witness to a society that was already highly organized and hierarchical. In Jersey, don't miss the covered alley at Ville-ès-Nouaux; the tomb-passage at La Pouquelaye-de-Faldouët; and above all the tomb-passage at La Hougue Bie , with its equinoctial entrance, its long corridor lined with 60 upright stones and its imposing 13-m-high tumulus. In Guernsey, it's impossible to overlook the Dolmen de Déhus; the menhir of Longue-Rocque; or the Table des Pions, a cromlech also known as... the ring of fairies. At the same time, the first defensive sites were developed, such as Jerbourg Point in Guernsey, first protected by a moat, then by successive additions of powerful stone walls, and finally by a grass rampart reminiscent of military glacis. Vale Castle was originally an Iron Age fort. Les Varines, in Jersey, is an astonishing site where granite blocks organized in lines and semicircles were found, serving as windbreaks and supporting structures for dwellings. At Alderney, a dry-stone wall 9 m in diameter encircling a hearth bears witness to daily life in the Iron Age. Alderney also boasts one of the few remaining Roman settlements on the islands. The small Roman fort, known as the Nunnery, dates back to the 4th century. Note its thick brick walls, forming a square enclosure with rounded corners and protecting a tower... They served as an example for future fortifications!
Medieval Traditions
Massive proportions, multiple variations of the semicircular arch, simple geometric shapes and motifs characterize the style imported by the Normans. Built on impregnable rocky spurs, their fortified castles shelter behind powerful ramparts. Dating from the 13th century, the Château de Mont Orgueil in Jersey is the most impressive example. This four-level fortress, protected by several defensive layers (ditches, moats, battlemented ramparts), is a veritable labyrinth of gates, staircases and vaulted passageways. In Guernsey, it's Castle Cornet that impresses, with its numerous gates and courtyards, imposing barbican (semi-circular structure covering a gate) and square tower. A Norman influence can also be seen in religious buildings, such as the parish church of Saint-Hélier and Fisherman's Chapel, both in Jersey. At the same time, the first farms and rural houses appeared. Irregular in appearance and modest in height (limited wood resources explain the short spans of the frames), they nevertheless appeared robust thanks to the local granite from which they were made. On the islands, a simple rule applies: the smaller the windows, the older the house! In fact, the earliest houses had few or none, and were not glazed. The thickness of granite walls made it possible to create deep embrasures to keep out the rain. In all cases, the gable walls were blind, and the windows were at the rear, facing south. The central element of the rural house is the chimney, most often running along the gable wall and then hidden by plaster. The hearth, however, is highlighted by a giant lintel supported by two imposing stone blocks and often bearing superb sculpted motifs. Another key feature is the stone stair turrets. In Jersey, these houses are also characterized by the presence of arches or bays (from 3 to 5) composed of 9 stones (1 central stone, 2 curved stones or shoulders, and 3 stones on each side). At the roadside, double arches - one for carriages and one for pedestrians - mark the entrance to these houses, which became large estates with the addition of outbuildings (always lower than the main house) organized around a paved courtyard. Over the centuries, these houses became more comfortable, with more and larger windows, and brick, slate, tile and even cement were added to the granite to cover the original stone... but they still retain the rustic charm inherited from the Middle Ages. Among the most beautiful farms not to be missed: ka Morel Farm in Jersey and the National Trust of Guernsey Les Caches Farm.
A whirlwind of styles
In 18th-century Jersey, Marshal Henry Seymour Conway designed the round coastal towers that would bear his name: Conway Towers. Constructed from local granite, they are adorned with machicolations. The Rocco Tower and Seymour Tower (the only square tower) are fine examples. On Guernsey, the British built the Loophole Towers, all in granite and based on the same model: one storey buried and two storeys pierced byloopholes and a slightly sloping base. The Anchresse towers are interesting examples. At the same time, the 18th century saw the development of a new style, the "Georgian style", inspired by classical order and rigor. Ashlar, brick, tile and slate are the preferred materials. Sometimes left unfinished, they are most often whitewashed. In terms of private residences, Les Mouriaux House in Jersey is a fine example, as is the famous Hauteville House in Guernsey, the home of a great lover of architecture by the name of Victor Hugo. In Jersey, terraced houses and the first workers' cottages were built in two parallel rows of houses separated by courtyards and gardens. Georgian rigor was followed by the theatricality of the Regency style. In Jersey, the rotunda of Seafield House in Saint-Lawrence is a superb example. In the city, particularly in Saint-Hélier, crescents (curved urban layouts) and decorative effervescence are shaking up codes. Canopies, balconies and imposing cornices reveal refined, delicate ironwork. All elements that herald the Victorian whirlwind of the 19th century. Jersey and Guernsey are also home to the Martello Towers, named after the Genoese fortifications they were inspired by. They can be recognized by their round structure, thick walls and firing platform. Built of stone or brick masonry, they often feature innovative mobile frameworks. A central masonry shaft supports the pivot of the framework, which is moved by wheels on a circular track along the outer wall, an ingenious system that allows 360° shooting and viewing. Portelet Tower and Kempt Tower in Jersey and Fort Grey in Guernsey are proud examples. The island of Alderney is an ode to Victorian civil engineering. The island boasts the only railroad on the islands. It was used to transport stone from quarries in the east of the island to the town of Alderney for the construction of the impressive kilometre-long breakwater. Warehouses and commercial buildings with their red granite silhouettes populate the harbour quays. The Quai des Marchands in Saint-Hélier, with its Commercial Buildings, is a perfect example. Ground-floor stores and offices, rear passageways leading to warehouses, sturdy wooden floors, imposing stairwells with continuous load-bearing posts and the use of new materials (glass, steel...) characterize these new industrial temples. The Victorian era was also one of astonishing eclecticism, blending all neo-styles, with neo-Gothic in particular, as seen in the Victoria Tower in Saint-Pierre-Port, all red brick and battlements, or the astonishing villa "La Fantaisie" in Saint-Saviour, with its Gothic windows and pointed arches. The grand hotels by the sea are brimming with stucco decorations, wood panels, sculptures and resolutely exotic motifs. In Saint-Hélier, don't miss the Royal Yacht Hotel. Another typically Victorian achievement: the kiosks and greenhouses found in the garden of the Guernsey Museum at Candie. In reaction to this industrial fever, the Arts and Crafts movement advocated a simple credo: "My home is my castle". Total works of art illustrating craftsmanship, these houses were inspired by the robustness and simplicity of medieval farmhouses, and paved the way for the famous English cottages. Furze Cottage in Saint John is a fine example.
German occupation
Perhaps you didn't know it, but the Germans turned the Channel Islands into veritable fortresses, among the strongest points of their Atlantic Wall. Artillery batteries, anti-aircraft batteries, anti-tank or Panzermauer walls, underground installations, bunkers of all kinds (observatories, casemates, shelters, towers...)... the German achievements are manifold. In Jersey, the Channel Islands Occupation Society has contributed to the preservation of numerous sites from this period, including the Lothringen and Moltke Batteries, the La Mare Bunker, the La Carrière Casemate and the MP1 Observation Tower. On the island, the Germans also devised a 360° observation and fire direction system inspired by the Martello Towers. Anchored atop slopes overlooking the sea, these towers have five to six observation levels. Some bunkers, with their facades pierced by multiple battlements for close defense, are reminiscent of medieval fortifications. With their periscopic armoured domes, concrete tanks and protruding overhangs, they provide innovative protection for heavy artillery, while the wooden facings of the casemates absorb shrapnel fire. But the most imposing German achievement on Jersey is the anti-tank wall in the Bay of Saint-Ouen, which stretches for 6 km in a continuous line, relying in particular on pre-existing granite anti-erosion walls. 6 m high, 2 m thick... this behemoth is protected to the north and south by two solidly fortified rocky points. The Germans also made extensive use of pre-existing fortifications, such as Elizabeth Castle, whose 16th-century walls were fitted with observation turrets and blockhouses. In Guernsey, the Germans rivalled each other in ingenuity when it came to building observation towers. While some are fairly traditional in shape (cylindrical, polygonal), others are astonishing, such as the Vale Mill tower consisting of three storeys added to the top of the island's oldest mill, or the Fort Saumarez tower built on top of a Martello Tower. The Germans were also masters of camouflage. Protective fences were often coated with cement to make them invisible. Some observation towers were camouflaged with nets imitating vegetation. But the most astonishing "disguises" consisted of ashlar cladding and a four-sided roof imitating rural dwellings, literally laid on top of the defensive structure... if it hadn't been for the cannons piercing the side of these charming cottages, the illusion would have been almost perfect!
Contemporary perspective
In the immediate post-war period, the islands, and Jersey in particular, underwent significant urban development. Unfortunately, this development was poorly supervised, and the island saw a proliferation of facilities, particularly for tourists, built to the detriment of the island's natural assets... even though the Committee for Natural Beauty was created in 1946! It wasn't until the 1960s that a real commitment to urban planning emerged with the Barrett Plan, which divided the island into zones to be protected and zones to be built on. As small as the island was, car traffic became a problem, and tunnels were created to relieve congestion on Saint-Hélier, freeing up the center for the creation of pedestrian zones. Unfortunately, this was also accompanied by the destruction of historic monuments, such as the church at the heart of Royal Crescent, destroying its urban unity. Other heritage sites have been transformed, such as Fort Regent in Saint-Hélier, transformed into a community and leisure center entirely covered by an imposing glass roof, while new districts have sprung up, such as the Waterfront, with its multiple housing and leisure complexes. More recently, the Jersey International Financial Centre, with its concrete and glass towers, is changing the silhouette of Saint-Hélier. To limit these not always happy developments, priority is now given to preserving nature and heritage and respecting the architectural traditions that must guide all new construction. Respect and sustainability were not really at the heart of the concerns of the billionaire Barclay brothers, who built a neo-Tudor behemoth on the tiny islet of Brecqhou (belonging to Serq), requiring the transport of almost 120,000 tonnes of materials! Fortunately, today's architects are opting for a more sober approach, with villas that limit their impact on the environment, such as the very mineral Logie Point House in Jersey. That could be the end of it, but in December 2021, the Chairman of the Jersey Building Council deplored the island's lack of major architectural edifices and called for the creation of an iconic building that would make Jersey a first-rate tourist destination... To be continued!
