Towards a state-run network
The construction of levadas used to be a private initiative. Rudimentary, the very first canals were dug in basalt rock, while the most recent ones are made of cyclopean concrete. It was not until the 19th century, in the midst of the wine crisis, that the region began to finance the construction of the levadas. The levada Velha do Rabaçal, completed in 1860 (25 years after the start of construction!), was the first levada to receive public funding. In 1947, the State launched a vast restructuring plan that allowed the transport of water from the north of the island to the south to be optimised. Almost 20 years later, 400 km of levadas and four hydroelectric power stations had been built. In addition to transporting spring water for human consumption and irrigating crops, some levadas are used to generate electricity: almost 15% of the electricity used in Madeira comes from hydroelectric power stations.
Walks along the canals
Discovering the levadas is also an exciting game and, in fact, the best way to explore the island thanks to the footpaths that have been created along these canals. The hiking trails along the levadas and through breathtaking landscapes have become true "ex-libris", the prerogative of walkers of all levels, classified according to their level of difficulty. Some follow the levadas hanging from the cliff side, offering breathtaking views of the mountain ranges (if you suffer from vertigo, ask for more information before taking this type of path!), others go through some of Madeira's most beautiful forests, lulling walkers to the pleasant sound of water flowing in the canals. More than 1,000 km of levadas can be walked in Madeira... All you have to do is put on your sneakers!
A controlled distribution system
The levadas form a dense network of tangled canals that require constant maintenance. The water carriers, or levadeiros, control every metre of these channels, which are regularly clogged by leaves, falling stones or dead branches. They also make sure that the springs are not diverted illegally, travelling more than ten kilometres a day along these channels. To water the crops, the levadeiros create a dam, diverting water to the fields to "flood" the plantations. This technique, while requiring a large amount of water, allows the soil to stay wet longer. But the use of water is very strictly codified. The levadeiros distribute water according to the surface area and the needs of each farmer, with a certain water quota paid in hours (and not per cubic metre!). It would indeed be complicated to evaluate the volume of water distributed, variable over the year, according to the flow of the levada. When the flow drops, naturally, all users are affected.
In 2025, you'll have to pay to walk
The Madeira authorities have taken the decision to charge foreign and non-resident hikers for using one of the archipelago's thirty most popular trails. From January1, 2025, every hiker aged 12 or over will have to pay a €3 fee to the ICFN (Institute of Forestry and Nature Conservation). Payment will be made online, by scanning a QR code via the Simplifica government platform, or directly at ICNF stations located near the main trails. The funds raised are intended to help maintain, clean and conserve these hiking trails, many of which run alongside levadas, while limiting the impact of mass tourism on the environment. Please note: fines of up to €50 can be imposed on those who fail to pay!
