The new Serbia
Seen from the outside, the cities still have a typically communist appearance, with rows of blocks of flats on the outskirts of the big cities. But, the first difference with the Soviet world, once inside, one is surprised by the vitality of the social life of the districts. This is due to the Komšiluk, an ancestral system typical of the Balkans where people help each other as in the village. Thus, the districts are very animated, people meet regularly and they marry just as often from one floor to another. Another difference with the former USSR is that Serbian city centers have kept their old style and are often very pleasant, with wide avenues lined with trees and pedestrian streets, or korso
, typical of the Balkan tradition. The visitor will appreciate the advantages of the communist system, which is still largely in place: the public transport network is very extensive in the cities, and public facilities, especially cultural ones, are numerous, if not a little outdated. In the countryside, it's a completely different story. The villages are modern, sometimes too much so. The voluntarism of the Titists has given a sometimes surrealist face to certain over-invested villages where low-cost buildings dominate with all their weight small country houses and parks that were once very rural. In the still untouched countryside, it is an idyllic landscape that offers itself to you, with large peasant thatched cottages, hidden in the folds of the landscape. However, the country has not escaped the housing frenzy that is ravaging the former Eastern bloc. While many city dwellers were able to take advantage of a policy of selling social housing at low prices in the 1990s, those who were not so lucky are facing a severe housing crisis: prices are exploding and there is a shortage of new buildings ... not much was built during the war. In Belgrade, there is an overbidding in construction: cranes and buildings grow like mushrooms, without cohesion or any overall plan.As far as gender equality and LGBT rights are concerned, these issues are treated in much the same way. In this very patriarchal country that wants to join the EU, fundamental reforms are being made but the heart is not really there. Theoretical equality has been established (homosexuality is decriminalized, discrimination against women is prohibited), but the authorities do not make much effort to deal with the cases of discrimination that come to their attention and society is not very sensitive to these issues. An example of this ambiguity is the 2017 appointment of Prime Minister Ana Brnabić, the first woman and homosexual to the post, seen by many as a way to please the international community without shaking things up too much.
Good to know about the Serbian temperament
Serbs are passionate people. They like to throw themselves 100% into their projects and passions and do not appreciate half measures. Social conventions are also more relaxed than in Northern Europe (especially towards foreigners) and locals are more direct and warm with complete strangers. If you have a date with a Serbian or make a close friend, go all out. Proof of affection is expected and very common (even between friends), express yourself as much as possible and look the other person in the eye (you are not a liar?). Don't be afraid of arguments or intense discussions until the early morning. Little advice, don't let yourself be intimidated and go with the flow! You will not regret it.
Serbs are rebels. They don't appreciate authority and are rather irreverent towards politicians, local and international. Don't be afraid to express your opinion... although... Serbs also don't appreciate sanctimonious countries that come to condemn without understanding and impose their laws. It will be less severe for a Frenchman than, for example, an American. This concept of excessive rebellion even has a word, inat, which will speak to the proud Gauls.Inat dictates that one must do something precisely because one has been forbidden to do it. This includes, for example, barbecuing on rooftops in a besieged city, or simply refusing to change one's lifestyle under duress
Serbs are traditional. How can one be rebellious and traditional? Well, by being very proud of your heritage. Most Serbs are well educated and take their history and traditions very seriously. Their history is complex and Serbian nationalism is very strong, which is why it is a minefield that requires some training before venturing into it (see the "History" file, but we recommend further reading). Religion also plays a central role in the country, more specifically the Church. You will not be blamed for not being religious or Orthodox, but you will not be forgiven for insulting religion: for many Serbs, Orthodoxy and Serbia are the same thing.
Appearances count. This is the case in many developing countries and especially in the former USSR. They don't believe in lifestyle choices, green-bobo dyed sweaters or cycling in the city. A rich man dresses like a rich man, a poor man... like he can. The Rolex and the convertible are bought as soon as possible and shown off to the world. In this patriarchal country, looks are a resource like any other for women who are often a little less dressed than the Western habit. Appearance does not stop at clothing choices and women, like men, invest a lot in their health and dental care. So, all this seems a bit bling-bling and outdated, but you will also be judged on these criteria.
