Departure for Ilulissat this morning. The flight is delayed, but we're finally leaving. People queue to enter the plane and are ready to run to have the best seat with a window. We feel like Harrods, London, the first day of the balances. I must admit that the view is beautiful and Harrods cannot compete with that! To observe icebergs, target the left window, to see the city, choose the right window. And if you want to kiss the pilot, well, be creative and don't forget to send us the photo!
Wow. May I say that Ilulissat is a real shock? Not because of its beauty, I would lie by writing this. First impression: crowded! I would never have thought such nonsense about a city of 4,530 people when we think I work in Paris, a city of 10 million inhabitants! But compared to Kangerlussuaq, it's like entering a megalopolis. Many cars and people walking on the roads! The port is full of boats. There is even a suspicion of urban stress. Ah ah ah! Two days in Kangerlussuaq were enough to make me lose my head.
With the group we arrive at the Hvide Falk Hotel. A real jewel. I like its decoration: a bear skin hanging on the wall, a small kayak suspended at the ceiling, a piano in the breakfast room… Warm and warm.
When I open the door of my room, I am shocked by the sight. A large glass bay and balcony overlook the fjord and its icebergs. It's a postcard. But it's time to go outside and get to know this «huge city» through a guided tour. Every passing in front of the port of Ilulissat, I will have this irrepressible desire to go a boat tour with a fisherman to observe him work… I like the perfume of the sea, the wind that freezes you when you are on board. And I love fish. Sailors have an intimate relationship with the sea, they are close to nature and simple things of life. I would love to talk with them and know their lives.
Our guide Christian shows us everything: the famous Knud Rasmussen museum, the church, bars, cafes, the many nursery schools, Santa's sleigh with its giant mailbox (oh yes, Santa Claus does not come from Finland but Greenland, you should know that if otherwise your wish list will not reach the right address. It's a shame to have no presents on Christmas night… think about it for next winter).
It's already 2 p. m. With Julia and Gabriel, we are hungry and look forward to lunch at the Hvide Falk Hotel Restaurant. I'm opting for fish, of course. My friends ask me to choose the bottle of white wine so I select with some pleasure the Pouilly Smoé. Food is delicious. We're trapping in Greenland. Once completed, we organize our own tower: direction the supermarket to see local produce. Julia and Gabriel dive into the store's stalls… when I go straight to cookies. Back at the hotel, they invite me to their room to share a bottle of white wine. This couple can enjoy life, they're so friendly. So here I am with them, holding a glass of golden wine while my gaze arises on floating icebergs in the fjord. Isn't that crazy? Am I in a dream? We sit down on beds or in chairs. They tell me their lives in Brazil and talk about insecurity in particular. This violence and anguish they must face on a daily basis. Being on holiday abroad is a real relief for them. The day slowly places at night and we open a new bottle. The aurora borealis are, of course, part of the conversation since Gabriel came here to realize his greatest dream: Photographing them. What are the chances tonight? And the best place to observe them? I note Søren and Marie-Louise, the Danish couple, on the balcony. They look at the sky. Søren is also in Greenland for the aurora borealis. I'll open the window and get rid of them by surprise. " Would you like to join us inside, we have a good bottle of wine? " We are now 5 in the room. Gabriel and Julia have their findings from the supermarket on the table and I run to my room to bring dessert: biscuits and candies. Gabriel opened a new bottle and we would be more beautiful. I speak of my passion/fascination for Denmark and the Danish language (one of my favorite subjects with gastronomy). Laughter resonates, glasses fill up again. Julia approaches politics. It's such a lovely evening. We did not know before we arrived in Greenland and suddenly we are so close. This international exchange is exciting: what is life like in Brazil, Denmark and France? What differentiates us or unites us? … The night fell on Ilulissat and I feel my friends fall too but sleep. It's hot inside so I try to motivate the troops for a boreal aurora hunt. I need to feel cold air. Marie-Louise is too tired to follow us this time. She goes to bed. But I do not give up on that: " Come on, do you? " " Julia interloded asks me how I do to be all the time in good humor: " You're never tired? " Hey, we're in Greenland! " I want to dance with the aurora borealis! Come with me! I add by whispering "… and white wine never gives me sleep, never!" They laugh. This is the beginning of victory against relaxation. Gabriel ends up wearing his clothes in seal skin and Julia tries to open his eyes out of the room. Søren was easier to wake up, he is already in the corridor with me waiting for the Brazilian couple for our special Nordlys expedition. Yiiiiiiiiiiiihhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah! We are outside and we are heading towards the old heliport. Boys are so fast now, what's going on? Julia and I am moving far more slowly. It must be said that Julia carries Gabriel's tripod. Once on the top of the hill, Søren and Gabriel continue by climbing the mountain. With Julia, we are expanding on rocks, eyes set on the sky. We are discussing when suddenly it is: The aurora boreal! Julia calls Gabriel but no answer. After several attempts, we decide to climb the mountain to find the male team. The aurora boreal is pale and green, but it is there! Then she disappears. We are waiting, but it is becoming colder. Gabriel and Julia are lying on the wooden structure of the old heliport watching the sky while Søren and I stand up one next to the other. I'm trying to detect a new boreal aurora but no, nothing more. Søren stretches his arm in the air and shows me the stars, he talks to me about constellations. Gradually, the celestial arch animates before my eyes. Figures from ancient times come alive. I had come hunting something very precise and found something else just as magical. Thank you Søren for that moment. ─ It's time to come back to the hotel, I'm cold. Julia and Gabriel are the bravest, they remain hoping for the arrival of a new boreal aurora.
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