Return to Ilulissat. For my last evening, my program ends in apotheosis with a dinner reserved at the Ulo Restaurant. The "foodie" that I am in heaven is in heaven alone. The server shows me my table, next to the large glass bay with view on the fjord and icebergs. Of course I choose the 5-course menu and the wine menu. ❑ A truly gastronomic experience. At each pass of the server, a new dish, a new surprise! I'm in a pastry in front of the training, the textures variation within the same plate, subtle and elegant tastes. My favorite dish is the head of fish!! There is the influence of René Redzepi… a huge head of fish served on a large plate with big open mouth, the language pointing your direction. Well, actually it's not served like that, it's just presented to you like that. The server cuts the cheeks of the fish and has them in a soup plate. Then, with a very nice transparent coffeemaker, he pays dashi Greenlanders around. I tell him enthusiastically: " Wouah! " I love the presentation. He smiles. What do you do with dashi greenlanders? He explains to me: " It's like the Japanese dashi, but with dried fish from Greenland. " " I have grilled skin, the exquisite tenderness of fish flesh (which melts divently under the tongue) and dashi… Mushrooms in sublime broth. I feel like a siren swimming in the frozen fjord. Another dish is served. The pieces of lamb are so soft… like salted caramel… I don't believe it! It's terribly good! Red wines are the best partners. Aurora borealis appear in the sky. Guests get up and rush to the terrace. I'll check out. Oh yes, there's one! A green, lovely one. We feel there is a great chance that it will become more important in the evening. But I look forward to returning to my table to discover the new wonder that awaits me on my plate. The dish looks like "haute couture". Thin beet and mustard waffles give volume and color to the plate. The circles of intense purple red and the wavelength of yellow wavelengths strewn with seeds are inserted vertically between pieces of a meat to perfect cooking. A thick red sauce draws a greedy curve on the plate. Green light in the sky but even more colors in my dish. Flavors of flavors explode in my mouth. All textures: Raw, cooked, liquid, crumbling… It's a shame, I can't finish because I want to keep enough room for dessert. The waiter guesses my intention and tells me: " Do you want to be hungry for dessert? " " This server is so nice and friendly from the beginning. " I like to joke with him and share my enthusiasm about the dishes because he and I am animated by the same energy. The dessert consists of a pear cut in ultra thin slices, almost transparent. They can be seen by intermittently a quenelle of white chocolate ice cream or black chocolate biscuits/waffles with light and crisp texture. Very good! The server comes and says to me: " If you want to see the auroras better, our driver can drive you to the graveyard in English. " I think he just gave me the Greenlandic name of a place "Graveuiaq" and I try to find out where it might be. I repeat with a bizarre accent: " Graveuiaq "? He replied «no "and repeats the word «graveyard". I realize that he was telling me an English word and we would be together with this misunderstanding! I tell him: " You know, there's a picture that would be much more valuable to me than that of a boreal aurora, but I don't know if it's possible. " It would be a picture of you, the Chief and me. He asks me "Do you have any time?" " Of course. " He disappears immediately in the kitchen. Ooooh, these are my two Greenlandic heroes of the evening: my server and the Chief ready for the photo. Adorable! The Chief puts his arm around my shoulder and all three look at the camera, a smile on the lips.
This trip was like this dinner, a wonderful arctic symphony with flavors of paradise.
But do you remember my desire to meet a fisherman in Ilulissat and talk to him? Life is generous. In my return flight to Copenhagen, a man was sitting next to me. Guess what? Yes, a fisherman! Originating in the Faroe Islands. Come to work in Disko Bay! This man had been watching me for a while, smiling. I was watching all the episodes of the «Noti of Greenland» short program. He waved the conversation at the very moment that the episode in Oqaatut with Ole began… My other dream realized. Greenland is definitely a player and friendly. Thank you, Greenland. I love you.
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