At equal distance from Barcelona and Valencia, from steep hills in green hills, the Ebro unties its curves to rush peacefully into the Mediterranean. The most powerful river in the Iberian Peninsula, the bearer of life and formerly of civilization, gives its name to a lush and diverse natural territory ignored by the general public: the Ebro Lands
If vast banks of fine sand rub shoulders with more intimate coves along 150 km of a coastline dotted with picturesque fishing villages, the presence of the Delta remodels the clichés of the postcard: in a landscape bordering on the unreal, the infinite rice fields undulate under the sun, like a vegetable candling spotted with the pink of migrating flamingos... Going up the river, it is the medieval Tortosa, the capital of the region with its architectural heritage as old as it is unsuspected, then the sumptuous Parc d'Els Ports and its century-old trees, or the myriad of wine villages of La Terra Alta. It is because gastronomy and wine culture, generously celebrated, have for centuries punctuated the daily life of the welcoming inhabitants. Here, outdoor enthusiasts will be delighted: from canoe trips to ascents, the Ebro reveals some of its secrets... Overview.
The delta, a singular space framed by golden beaches
These lands have sumptuous coasts, sometimes rocky, sometimes punctuated by confidential coves and wide golden beaches much less frequented than those of the Costa Brava. On the north coast, we will dive among hordes of giant tunas and try sea kayaking before discovering the marine fauna of El Perelló. A terrace will then do the trick to attend the fish auction, seated in front of a succulent seafood restaurant
To reach the south, take the GR-92, an old pirate pathway that winds between the peaks while revealing treasures of coves lined with pines and agave trees, to L'Ampolla, a small fishing village and gateway to the Delta. A true natural jewel and the main wetland of Catalonia, the Ebro Delta - and its more than 30,000 hectares of aquatic plains - is both a mosaic of changing colours, dominated by the rice cycle, and the precious habitat of a unique flora and fauna born from the meeting of river and marine waters. The absolute horizontality of the terrain will allow you to appreciate the ballet of reed beds adorning marshes and desert shores, as well as the bouquets of eucalyptus and white poplars flourishing on the banks of the river. It is this scenery, imbroglio of dunes, bays, salt flats and lagoons in the air of Mississippi that 60% of Europe's birds have chosen to fall in love, making the Delta a major birdwatching home with pink flamingos and herons stars. With a sensation as soothing as it is ethereal, we will explore this wild space that man has tamed. Along the coast, you will find Sant Carles de la Ràpita, a dynamic tourist centre, where you can taste exquisite shrimps and oysters from the Delta, drizzled with a fresh white wine. Notice to adrenaline lovers: further south lies an infinite line of sand, famous for sailing and kitesurfing!
A surprising historical heritage, between river and mountain
But the region has some other assets in its pocket. Going up the winding banks of the Ebro, you go back in time, each turn delivering a surprise, starting with the attractive Tortosa. A crossroads of civilizations, its monumental ensemble is breathtakingly diverse: from the Andalusian castle of La Suda - built on the ancient Roman acropolis - to the Gothic Episcopal Palace, from the admirable Cathedral - a combination of Roman and Renaissance styles - to the patio of the Royal Colleges, not to mention the labyrinthine Jewish quarter and the city's former slaughterhouse with its striking modernist arabesques, history buffs will be served. Let us mention here the Cathedrals of Wine, those agricultural cooperatives that flourished at the end of the 19th century, such as those of Pinell de Brai and Gandesa created by César Martinell, a disciple of Gaudí. We will then marvel at the rock paintings of Ulldecona or Freginals, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, or the fantastical Meravelles de Benifallet caves. The Miravet fortified complex built by the Knights Templar will stimulate the imagination, immersing visitors in the conflicts of the Aragonese crown, while the Horta Sant Joan convent will provide an insight into the religious influence that the region once enjoyed
In the same village, we will discover a museum dedicated to Picasso, who spent part of his youth here, drawing exalted inspiration from the sparkling meadows. Finally, a stopover will be required in Corbera d'Ebre, the last republican stronghold of the Spanish Civil War, with a visit to the trenches and anti-aircraft refuges, a living memory of one of the most tragic episodes in Catalan history
Ideal playground for active tourism
In the extreme southwest, Mount Caro is located in the heart of the enchanting Els Ports Natural Park. Its 35,000 hectares of limestone escarpments with their dense variegated vegetation are home to abundant flora and fauna: in particular, the southernmost beech grove in Europe, with monumental trees at the foot of which wild cats, otters and emblematic Hispanic wild goats roam. A space very popular with walkers, it will be visited in winter on a bright day, in summer in the shade of tall pines, or in between, walking in the heart of a palette of changing colours, crowned by golden eagles. Here, as in the Serra del Montsià, Cardó or Boix, the terrain is ideal for climbing, but also for canyoning and potholing, with many white waterways and rocky gorges. In the north, the meanders of Flix reveal their beautiful reeds where white storks and kingfishers coo, to be explored by canoe or aboard the Lo Roget lute, a river boat with a leaning mast typical of the Ebro. Let's not forget the Via Verda, a 50 km walk crossing vineyards, water points and tunnels, which we will do on foot, by bike or on horseback
Wines and other sweets
The Terres de l'Ebre are criss-crossed but above all they are smelled and tasted, starting with the white wines of Terra Alta. Internationally recognized, the production of the region's twenty or so cellars - offering all oenological circuits and tastings - is distinguished by the use of white grenache, a Mediterranean grape that gives the wine an intense flavour and amber highlights, while the red wine has powerful aromas. Real liquid gold cultivated since the passage of the Phoenicians, the olive oil of the Terra Alta and the Baix Ebre, also enjoys a great reputation. Market gardening, especially fruit growing, is even richer, from tasty peaches and clementines, to mountain honey, not to mention rice, the undisputed star of the Delta, which is cooked in the back with seafood, or according to Cajun recipes, with some frog and eel dishes for the most fearless! One thing is certain, the Terres de l'Ebre will leave a sparkling memory for those who walk along its beaches and paths
Smart info
When? When? The Ebro Lands enjoy a Mediterranean climate with hot summers and mild winters. Despite some rainfall, spring and autumn are the best times to visit the Delta and parks. Summer is of course the blessed time to enjoy the sun on the beach
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