Discover Austria : Vienna, the prom queen

Gone are the days when only the nobility danced to the waltzes of Johannes Strauss on the fine parquet floors of Viennese palaces! Today, the formula has been largely democratized, and the Vienna ball season totals 450 balls a year, 2,000 hours of dancing and 500,000 visitors, including 55,000 from abroad. The event generates no less than 150 million euros in economic spin-offs. So Alles Walzer ! Everyone gets into the dance. All right, but with a certain etiquette. There's nothing 100% touristy or folkloric about it. It's a tradition and a serious business for the Viennese, young and old, of all professions and persuasions, who make a habit of getting together at least once a year during the ball season. Even the most timid keep a suit or ball gown in their wardrobe, coming out of the closet only for this occasion.

How the waltz became honorable

Yet until the 18th century, balls were confined to the aristocracy. The Habsburg court danced and counter-danced à la française. It was Emperor Joseph II who initiated their democratization by opening them up to the rest of society. The contredanse gave way to the quadrille. But it was some time before the Viennese waltz became the queen of the ball. This intoxicating and not very distant couple's dance was poorly received by an indignant upper class. The ball was no longer a matter of propriety and savoir-vivre if romance was invited... And what a whirlwind it was!

It was in 1814, at the Congress of Vienna, that the waltz was recognized as an honorable ballroom dance. Convening the nations of Europe, this congress had as its mission the reorganization of Europe after the fall of Napoleon. At the same time, numerous waltz balls were organized. From then on, the waltz became part of everyday life. The Viennese composer Johann Strauss senior (1804-1849) put the dance on the map, composing over 150 waltzes and introducing it to Europe by traveling with his orchestra. From then on, lovers waltzed and the waltz became one of Vienna's symbols. Today, the waltz remains the star attraction all winter long. Vienna's ball season kicks off on November 11, with the Chimney Sweepers' Ball.

The different strata of society meet at Viennese balls. Some dance to a three-beat waltz, while others move to disco in the next room. Many balls are held in prestigious palace halls, a setting that contributes greatly to their charm. The most famous of these, the New Year's Eve Ball, a major social event, takes place at the end of December in the golden salon of the Wiener Konzerthaus. In January and February, the season is in full swing. The most elegant ball is theOpera Ball. The sweetest is the Bonbon Ball at the Wiener Konzerthaus, known for its informal, fun atmosphere. At the Kursalon, you can dance to Strauss waltzes at the Johann Strauss Ball. At the Flower Ball, theTown Hall is transformed into an ocean of flowers. There's also the lawyers' ball, the doctors' ball, the cafe owners' ball, the vegan ball, the far-right ball, the science ball and the weightlifters' ball, not forgetting the eccentric and festive LGBTQ community ball. But no matter how original, the ball will incorporate a few waltzes and ceremonial rites, and will strive to make a profit. Balls are an economic issue. Many sectors benefit from their spin-offs: hotels, restaurants, tailors, hairdressers and florists. Participants spend an average of 300 euros per ball, including admission, drinks and meals. However, this barely covers admission to the most prestigious balls, such as the Opéra. Some balls are more democratic, such as the Arc-en-ciel ball, where admission costs no more than 60 euros.

Evening dress required

With the purchase of a ticket and the observance of etiquette, anyone can dance at a ball in the Hofburg or in less prestigious venues. The common denominator is a certain level of dress... and restraint. Strict dress code and respect for the ball from opening to closing. The appropriate attire is the evening gown for women, the tailcoat (white tie) or black suit (black tie) for men. Several rental companies come to the rescue of those who don't have such finery in their wardrobe, including the most famous of them all: Flossmann. The more affluent can even order, well in advance, a made-to-measure frac from Lambert Hofer junior, the nec plus ultra of the genre. Of course, you'll also need to master ballroom dancing, primarily waltz, but also polka piquée and quadrille. There are dance schools specializing in the art of ballroom dancing and etiquette. An hour's lesson at theRueff dance school, or at Elmaye, for example, will help you put on a good show. The latter, familiar to tourists, teaches in a variety of ceremonial rooms to get you in the mood, and offers a ball-Blitzkurs, a crash course in ball preparation, once a week.

Among the rituals, inherited from the 18th-century Court, is the delightful tradition of the Damenspende, a refined little present given to each woman as she enters the ballroom. According to tradition, the ball is introduced with a fanfare, then opened by the waltz of debutantes and debutantes to the music of a large orchestra. Then, at the command of Alles Walzer, everyone joins them on the dance floor. And at the stroke of midnight, there's no pumpkin, but the participants take their places for the traditional quadrille, often from Johann Strauss's The Bat. The dancing master tries to coordinate the troops, but the quadrille inevitably descends into a joyous mess. In the early morning, the end of the ball also has its ritual: the lights are dimmed and the orchestra plays a slow waltz for the last dance. Then the party traditionally ends around the sausage stand or a goulash in the restaurant.

Small selective calendar

It's hard to choose a ball. If you're a chimney sweep from Vienna, a café owner, a confectioner or a lawyer, the choice is easy: everyone has their own ball. For the rest, you can choose your palate, your budget (with prices ranging from simple to triple), your corporate theme, your genre, your sophistication, your availability... And don't forget to reserve your place in advance for the most famous balls: de l'Opéra, des Cafetiers, des Confiseurs, du Philharmonique. And if you want to cram several of them into a few days, the last weekend before Mardi Gras is particularly busy, with the Bonbon Ball, held since 1949 on the last Friday before Mardi Gras, followed by the Lawyers' Ball on the next day, and finally the famous Opera Ball, held since 1877 on the last Sunday before Mardi Gras. And on Monday, it's the Rudolfina Redoute student ball!

The New Year's Eve Ball (www.hofburgsilvesterball.com) celebrates the New Year at the Imperial Palace Hofburg on December 31.

The Zuckerbäckerball (www.zuckerbaeckerball.com ). This has been held in mid-January, also in the Hofburg, for over 120 years. It's one of the most popular balls, and not just for gourmets. Confectioners decorate their balls with a multitude of pastries, chocolates and a large tombola.

Philharmonikerball (www.wienerphilharmoniker.at ). One of the most elegant of the season, it takes place at the end of January. The Vienna Philharmonic invites high society to dance in the gilded hall of its Musikverein. The ball opens under the baton of a guest conductor, who leads a selected piece from his repertoire. Then 3,000 dancers enter the dance.

The Doctors' Ball(www.aerzteball.at) has been held at the Hofburg at the end of January for over 70 years.

The Hunters' Ball(www.verein-grueneskreuz.at), which is close to the extreme right, has also been held at the Hofburg the day after the Doctors' Ball, in traditional dress, for a century now. Man in skin breeches, woman in dirndl.

The Kaffeesieder-Ball (www.kaffeesiederball.at ). Early to mid-February in the Hofburg. The Cafetiers' Ball, renowned for its ambience, has an aura that extends far beyond the cafe guild. A few figures? 6,000 dancers, a dozen orchestras, 24 equipped halls, numerous vestibules and corridors, €135 admission.

The Johann Strauss Ball(www.johannstraussball.com) traditionally takes place in mid-February at Vienna's Kursalon, where the Strauss brothers had their greatest successes.

The Bonbon Ball(www.bonbonball.at), held on the third Friday in February, is undoubtedly the sweetest ball, renowned for its relaxed and funny atmosphere, bringing together the most gourmet dancers at the Wiener Konzerthaus.

The Jurists' Ball(www.juristenball.at) takes place the day after the Bonbon Ball. For over 30 years at the Hofburg, this conservative and traditional event has also been a charity event. Each year, artists perform free of charge and raise thousands of euros for a different NGO, against violence, for women's education, child protection...

The Opernball, the Opera Ball (www.wiener-staatsoper.at). The social and VIP ball of the Republic of Austria and the artists of the National Opera is held at the end of February. This charity event attracts over 5,000 guests from all over the world. Dressed in evening wear under the gilding and the majestic dome, they attend the opening polonaise with a glass of champagne while admiring the parade of 140 debutantes on the arm of their escorts. Broadcast on television.

The Rudolfina Redoute Ball (www.rudolfina-redoute.at) is held at the Hofburg on Shrove Monday. It's a traditional masked ball organized by a student brotherhood, which has existed since the Austro-Hungarian Empire and is held on Shrove Monday. The masked ladies invite the men to dance.

LGBTQ community balls

Active on the artistic and cultural scene, Vienna's LGBTQ community organizes balls open to all. The reciprocal is just beginning.

The Rainbow Ball (www.regenbogenball.at) is a classic, in evening dress but with crazy, colorful entertainment, which has been held at the end of January at the Parkhotel Schönbrunn for 25 years.

Still confidential until recently, the Bal créatif (www.clubkreativ.at), another gathering of the LGBTQ community and its friends, is now sold out weeks in advance. It is held at the Hans Mandl Vocational School.

Drag queen Miss Candy entertains at the Palais Auersperg for the Bal des Roses (www.rosenball.eu), while the black-and-white Bal de l'Opéra is held in the palace opposite. Here, guests abandon their tuxedos, evening dresses and three-beat waltzes to dance to house music in colorful outfits.

There's also an off-season ball: the Diversity Ball (www.diversityball.at), which takes place at the Kursalon in the Stadtpark, under the banner of diversity and mutual respect.

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