Leather in all its states
Worked since the 12th century with the same techniques and materials of yesteryear, Moroccan leather offers unprecedented quality at prices defying all competition in Europe. This craft, of which Fez supplies nearly half of the country's leather, is an integral part of the history of the kingdom whose name is given to leather goods. The emergence of the leather industry did not put an end to traditional tanning, the techniques of which continue to be handed down from generation to generation. In Fez, in the nearly 900-year-old Chouara tannery, more than 500 master craftsmen work every day to process the skins of oxen, sheep, goats and camels in the 1,200 basins of coloured water. Here, equipped with a sprig of mint to avoid the pestilential smell, you can watch the tanners at work, while you do your shopping afterwards. Bags and coats of all sizes, not forgetting Moroccan slippers, slippers used by both men and women, you will have a wide choice of quality items, in different types of leather. The whole tinted with vegetal colours, from poppy red to mint green, passing by saffron yellow or charcoal black. Marrakech, Tetouan and to a lesser extent Taroudant are also famous for their leather work. You will be able to make very good deals there, if you negotiate well! Be wary, however, of the arguments of the sellers who can certify that the article is made of camel leather, very thick and difficult to work, at more excessive prices, whereas it is goat or sheepskin, whose smells are often stronger.
Goldsmithing, a Moroccan specialty
In the north as well as in the south, women will easily find necklaces, bracelets and earrings in artisanal jewelry stores. However, between regions, different types of jewellery can be found, starting with the material used. Gold is a specialty of northern Morocco, especially in Fez and Essaouira, where some craftsmen emigrated in the nineteenth century. One finds there splendid jewels of Arab origin, enhanced with precious stones. Silver, as for him, is worked rather in the south, on the side of Taroudant and especially Tiznit. Of Berber origin, they are adorned with motifs dyed with allegorical symbols of which each region has its own colours. The necklaces are often adorned with jade and amber, stones very present in this region of the Atlas, while the bracelets and fibulas, a kind of brooch, are inlaid with coloured enamel. Authentic pieces being extremely rare and expensive, go to a "bazaarist" who sells nice imitations at low prices, if you are not a specialist. Even then, be careful not to pay excessive prices for what is likely to be fake, as gold and silver are often plated and amber is often replaced by plastic. At the goldsmiths', you will also find everyday or decorative objects made of copper and bronze such as trays, kettles, censers, candleholders and various boxes, nicely chiselled. Precious metals, such as gold, silver and tin, are obligatorily stamped with a hallmark, but although this hallmark identifies the presence of a noble metal in the alloy, it does not determine the exact proportion. There would be different punches depending on the quality of the alloy, but it is often difficult to find out.
The carpet, a true object of art
Although cumbersome in a suitcase, the carpet is nevertheless one of the most representative objects of Morocco to take home. More than a decorative item, it has always been a utilitarian object for the Berber tribes who kept warm in their homes with woollen carpets. By hand or with the help of a loom, these weaving techniques are perpetuated from a long tradition of more than 1,000 years. The most beautiful carpets in the world are designed in the Atlas Mountains by Berber women who create unique pieces decorated with symbols steeped in history. These carpets are easily found in the High Atlas region, but also in major cities such as Fez and Rabat. The quality of a carpet is determined by the number of knots woven per square metre, the quality of the wool and the type of dyes used. To make sure that your carpet is made of real wool and not cotton, you can burn a yarn sticking out of the carpet, as real wool invariably gives a smell of hair and roasted meat, unlike cotton. In addition, quality carpets come with a government certification label indicating the place of origin, the quality of the wool, and a registration number. Tariff schedules have been set according to size, style, number of knots per square metre, and material used. If it turns out that you have been cheated, for example by paying a lot of money for a carpet that is supposedly two centuries old but is not even twenty years old, you can lodge a complaint with the tourist office, and the merchant in question will be obliged to reimburse you on the spot. Good to know: some merchants can send the purchased carpet directly to your home for an extra charge.
Pottery, an ancestral tradition
The origin of pottery in Morocco seems to date back to the 9th century, when Muslims emigrating from Andalusia introduced this craft to Fez, which is now famous for its quality and very resistant pottery. Terracotta articles are generally made by women for domestic use, while men are dedicated to earthenware, with the aim of marketing it. The latter differs from pottery by the glazes that decorate it, and which solidify during a second firing in the kiln. In Fez or Safi, you will find the most beautiful examples of pottery, including tagine dishes that will delight cooks. This hollow dish, with a flared rim, made of thick brown clay and inseparable from its lid in the shape of a pointed hat, is used to fire the dish of the same name. On contact with this earthenware utensil, the food, simmered for a long time, acquires a unique flavour. In the souks, you will also find vases, ashtrays, domes and plates, very colourful and finely decorated. It's up to you to bargain!
Local products, a sure value
Olive oil, honey, spices, rose water or argan, it is becoming easier and easier to find local Moroccan products, which used to be sold in bulk on the roadside. Today, small producers have grouped together in cooperatives and offer products with attractive packaging, while guaranteeing the best quality and origin thanks to PDO labels, which have flourished in recent years. In addition to small shops, you can find some of these products in supermarkets or at the duty free at the airport. But to get the best prices, the best is to buy them in the productive regions, with as a bonus the assured quality: rose water, in the province of Kelâat M'gouna, located between Ouarzazate and Tinghir, argan oil, in the regions of Agadir and Essaouira and olive oil, around Fez-Meknes. There, you will be able to directly find sales areas dedicated to the product you are looking for, at unbeatable prices. They are managed by the Economic Interest Groups, which bring together many cooperatives, such as the one in Dar Azaafaran, in Taliouine.
Basketry and wood carvings
Basketmakers make everyday objects from rush, esparto, reed or raffia in the traditional way. Some are bulky and difficult to bring back like an armchair or stool, but you can always fall in love with a basket that you can use as hand luggage on the plane! In Essaouira, the wicker city par excellence, you'll find beautiful baskets, which are then decorated by Marrakech artisans. There are also vegetable fibre coasters, jewellery boxes, baskets of various sizes and even decorative tagine dishes, which you can find just about everywhere in the big cities. Although the wood craft is widespread in Morocco for the manufacture, among other things, of cedar or lemon tree furniture, it is little dedicated to tourism. However, in the region of Essaouira, where the thuja is the king tree for small objects, you will get your hands on beautiful sculptures or pretty wooden boxes. But the latter have become very valuable and the merchants are real antique dealers. Bargaining is very difficult and you will often have to give up your arms in front of your confident interlocutor.
The embroidery, the Moroccan excellence
It is surely the most refined feminine art in Morocco where patience and dexterity are put to the test among women. Very early on, little girls learn to embroider tablecloths, clothes, cushions, handkerchiefs and sometimes babouches. Working at home, the embroiderers are not grouped together as a corporation, and there is no souk specifically dedicated to embroidery. However, some families have opened their own business in town, where it is possible to appreciate this meticulous work. Do not hesitate to push the doors of haberdashers' shops in the souks either, they are well supplied with embroidered fabrics from all sides. The most beautiful embroideries come from Fez, where they decorate above all the tablecloths and sheets. Their particularity? They are completely reversible, with similar patterns both front and back, which requires a precise know-how and an infallible mathematical logic. Monochrome like those of Fez, the embroideries of Rabat, also famous, are made with geometric patterns, which only appear on the front of the work.
