Discover Italy : The GTE, hiking freedom

The Elbe at your own pace

Thanks to the GTE, it is possible to reach the west coast, i.e. the village of Patresi, from the north-eastern end of Capo Vita, and vice versa! The reliefs that form the backbone of the island offer magnificent views. Delicate scents of flowers vary according to the hours of the day. This mythical route stretches over some sixty kilometres, along well-developed paths, and generally requires about 25 hours of walking (even if some sportsmen and women break records!). It is divided into four sections and you can of course follow only some of them. Between forgotten valleys, peaks and steep crests, the GTE crosses breathtaking landscapes. Here are the stages:

Stage 1 - "The summits of the East": from Cavo to Porto Azzurro

This first stage covers a distance of 17.75 kilometres for an average duration of 8 hours. Starting from Cavo, on the north-eastern tip, this first stage allows you to get acquainted with the island's fragrant scrubland and includes a succession of climbs and descents. Along trail no. 260, towards Monte Grosso, stands the mausoleum of the Tonietti family. An eminent family that was the first concessionaire of the iron mines, located on the Elbo east coast, after the national unity. This original building, the only Art Nouveau style building on the island, gives a glimpse of the many discoveries to come, amidst the wild vegetation of the Elbe. Then a vast panorama is offered to the walker's view: to the east, over the iron mines of Rio nell'Elba and Rio Marina, to the west, over Portoferraio.
By taking the asphalt road towards Rio nell'Elba and then path no. 203, a small detour from the main itinerary leads to the Orto dei Semplici. Created in 1990, this charming botanical garden, located next to the hermitage of Santa Caterina, is home to spontaneous, rare and endemic plants of the island of Elba.
The peak of the day: the Cima del Monte, which, despite its 516 meters of altitude, requires a lot of energy before you can enjoy the view of Porto Azzurro, your arrival point.

Stage 2 - "Napoleon's Woods": from Porto Azzurro to Procchio

Less rugged, this second stage of the GTE is probably the least demanding of all. It is 20.56 kilometres long and lasts an average of 7 hours. It crosses the hinterland of the central region, partly following an old military road immersed in the Mediterranean scrub. The course is still set to the west.
Trail no. 221 leads to San Martino, the country and summer residence of the French emperor in exile. Napoleon was seduced by this pretty valley planted with vines and its breathtaking view of the sea and Portoferraio, which he discovered on horseback.
The discovery continues through a thick pine forest to Monte San Martino, the heart of the island of Elba, then to Colle di Procchio, located near the village of the same name, with the sea as a backdrop.

Stage 3 - "The granite peak": from Procchio to Poggio

Monte Capanne! You will discover a real playground for mountain lovers... but in the middle of the sea. The distance is then 11.84 km for an average duration of 5 hours. The route starts from the Strada Provinciale n° 25 to Monte Castello, where the panorama opens out onto the gulf of Campo. At Monte Perone, a small deviation is recommended: path no. 107, which leads to the granite workers' village of San Piero. The path crosses ancient quarries that speak of a past of stonemasons and quarrymen, under the watchful eye of the sheep.
The landscape crossed during this third stage is made of smooth granite rocks and composed of low and fragrant vegetation, letting the gaze be carried relatively far away. At the top of Mount Capanne, the highest point of the island of Elba (1,019 metres), a marvellous panoramic terrace overlooking Corsica, Capraia, Pianosa, Montecristo and Giglio awaits you. Unforgettable! Then it's time to start the (sometimes steep) descent towards Poggio, under the oak and chestnut woods.

Stage 4 - "La via del Troppolo": from Poggio to Patresi

Last day's walk along the old communication road on the west coast of the island, aiming for 16.28 km for an average of 8 hours. Departure from Poggio, along path no. 105, towards the ridge of Monte Giove, densely covered with chestnut trees. The beautiful granite paved road leads, among other things, to the hermitage of the Madonna del Monte, situated at 627 metres above sea level. This famous 14th-century sanctuary was an important place of pilgrimage on the Elba, and Napoleon liked to go there because the panorama allowed him to control sea travel around the island. From here, continue through the thick undergrowth of heather and strawberry trees to path no. 125, where the descent to Patresi begins, and the end of a 4-day journey that will have covered a distance of almost 60 kilometres and about 25 hours of excursion time.
Note: we have chosen this itinerary, from Poggio to Patresi, for this last stage because it is the traditional route of the Great Traversata Elbana. But be aware that there is an alternative, shorter route from Poggio to Pomonte, which is 9.26 kilometres long and takes an average of 5 hours to walk.

Practical advice

Cross the maquis, climb Mount Capanne, follow ancient mule trails, reach the coast... elba lends itself perfectly to hiking and trekking. But if you want to make the most of your discovery, it's important to follow a few recommendations and rules of etiquette. In particular, it's important to say hello to any hikers you meet along the way, and to give way to walkers climbing narrow paths. It's also important to opt for comfortable, hard-wearing clothing suited to the season, as well as appropriate walking shoes and a practical backpack for carrying water, especially in hot weather. Binoculars are an invaluable tool for observing the landscape and its wildlife. Remember to close fences after you've left. Finally, don't pick wild flowers, which are often protected on Elba.
The best time to hike the famous Grande Traversata Elbana is between June and October, when the trails are passable in good conditions. Although the trails are well-marked with red and white signs, it's essential to have a good map with you.
Before setting off, the website of the National Park of the Tuscan Archipelago is a must: www.islepark.it. It's a mine of useful information to help you embark on this great crossing with peace of mind, with every stage explained in minute detail. For on-the-spot information, visit the visitor centers in Marciana and Rio nell'Elba, open from April to October. And as the best gourmet stops along the GTE can be found on the Elba Taste Facebook page!