The flora
In spite of its arid aspect at first sight, the island is green from April onwards, bursting with colors with a predominance of pink due to cyclamens, oleanders, hairy rockroses and Italian orchis present throughout the territory. But what will interest the botanists in the making or confirmed is that here you can find plants from Europe, Asia and Africa. In all, nearly 1,900 plant species that constitute an unparalleled ecosystem. Not bad for a small country. On the other hand, the endemic species (native to the island) are relatively few, since they are only 140, which represents a rate of endemism of 7%, that is to say less than in Corsica (11%)
Forests. They cover approximately 41% of the surface of the island, mainly on the massifs of Troodos and Pendatactylos, with two thirds in the hands of private owners. Also two thirds of the forests are forestry, that is to say, composed of large trees, the rest being mostly scrub. To face the risk of fire, you will notice that the vegetation is often streaked with large trenches serving as firewalls. Sometimes this is not enough, and 1,500 ha of the Troodos forest went up in smoke during one of the most serious fires in recent years in June 2016.
Large trees. Conifers dominate with Calabrian pine (Pinus brutia), black pine (Pinus nigra), cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) and the magnificent Cyprus cedar (Cedrus brevifolia). The latter is considered endemic, but it is a subspecies of the Cedar of Lebanon (Cedrus libani). It is present throughout the Troodos massif, in particular, in the forest of Paphos with the famous Valley of the Cedars where about a thousand cedars of Cyprus are concentrated, as well as Calabrian and black pines. On the hardwood side, there are mainly four species: the oriental plane (Platanus orientalis), the oriental alder (Alnus orientalis), the Aleppo oak (Quercus infectoria) and the golden oak of Cyprus (Quercus Alnifolia), an endemic species of the Mediterranean oak family. Perfectly adapted to its environment, this oak can grow slowly on arid land and owes its name to its golden leaves on the inside. It is found mainly in the Troodos, between 400 and 1,800 m altitude.
Trees and shrubs of the maquis. Here are the six species that you will most frequently encounter in Cyprus. They make up the bulk of the maquis, a characteristic formation of the vegetation of the eastern Mediterranean. First of all, there is the carob tree (Ceratonia siliqua). Originating from the Tertiary era and the last representative of the Ceratonia genus, this tree is nicknamed "the black gold of Cyprus", because its pod, the carob, provided until the 1960s important income to farmers. It is still used in the fields of confectionery and pharmacology. The olive tree (Olea europaea) is the Mediterranean "tree of life" par excellence. But it occupies a relatively small place in the Cypriot economy with less than one million trees and an oil production of about 6,000 tons/year, comparable to that of France. The mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus), also called mastic tree or pistachio tree, is not commercially exploited. This shrub does not have the singular properties of the Chios mastic tree (Greece), but its fruits are used here to make sausages and its leaves are used to smoke certain meats. Next comes the juniper. It is represented here by four subspecies: the juniper of Phoenicia (Juniperus phoenicea) is found both near the coast and in altitude and forms small forests in the peninsula of Akamas; the Greek juniper (Juniperus excelsa), the juniper known as ancient or stinking (Juniperus foetidissima) and the cade (Juniperus oxycedrus) which grow in the Troodos, beyond 1 200 m of altitude. Other key species of the maquis: the cistus. It is found mainly in the west of the island up to 650 m altitude. We distinguish the cistus with gum or ledon (Cistus ladanifer) and the cistus of Cyprus (Cistus cyprius), which give beautiful white flowers. There are also the cistus of Crete(Cistus creticus) and the hairy cistus (Cistus villosus) with pink flowers. The gum rockrose and the Crete rockrose are exploited for their resin with a pleasant smell, the labdanum, used in perfumery. Finally, the arbutus is a typical tree of the high maquis, identifiable by its beautiful orange trunk up to 1,300 m altitude. There are two types in Cyprus: the common strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) appreciated for its globular berries which earned it the nickname "strawberry tree", which has almost disappeared from the island and remains only in Akamas; the Cyprus strawberry tree (Arbutus andrachne), which is not endemic contrary to what its name suggests, is found in almost all the island with also edible berries, but less pleasant taste.
Flowers. Among the hundreds of flowers of the island, let us quote two endemic species. First of all, the rare and endangered Cyprus tulip (Tulipa cypria), which grows only in scrubland near the Phoenician juniper, and which is present only in three areas: the Akamas peninsula, near the Maronite village of Kurmajit/Kormakitis, and in some places in the Pentadactylos mountains. Its 6 petals are of a deep blood red, spotted with black and bordered with yellow. Then, the orchid of Aphrodite (Serapias aphroditae), identifiable with its reddish stem: it is one of the 50 wild orchids of Cyprus, of which a dozen are endemic. Its discovery is quite recent, since it was identified by the Belgian naturalist Pierre Delforge in 1990. Classified as vulnerable, it seems to exist only in the hills of Akamas. Others nest in the Pentadactylos mountains, like the amazing bee orchid (Ophrys kotschyi) which has taken the shape of a bee to be better pollinated. Finally, note that it is around the village of Kritou Terra (30 km north of Paphos) that are the highest concentrations of wild orchids on the island.
The mammals
There are only 33 species of terrestrial and wild mammals in Cyprus, 34 if man is counted. The impact of human development in a space as confined as Cyprus has caused the disappearance of many species such as the gray wolf and the weasel in the twentieth century or the Persian deer in the sixteenth century. At the arrival ofHomo sapiens, about 10,000 years ago, the island still had some amazing species such as the dwarf elephant of Cyprus (Elephas cypriotes) and the dwarf hippopotamus (Hippopotamus minor) which had adapted to the environment by considerably reducing their size. But the cohabitation with humans was fatal for them. Subsequently, the presence of their skeletons, here and in Crete, would have given rise to legends, like that of the Cyclops of Greek mythology. But the intervention of man has also caused the creation of new species in the Neolithic, since it is estimated that Cyprus is one of the homes of the domestication of the wolf and the wild cat, which have become our friendly doggies and pussycats
Cyprus sheep (Ovis orientalis ophion). Symbolic animal of the island, it calls for admiration for its climbing skills. But it also provokes debate. Already, specialists are arguing about whether it is an endemic species or a subspecies of the "Mediterranean sheep", as it is so close to the Corsican sheep (Ovis orientalis musimon) with the same weight (35 kg) and the same horns for the males. Impressive, these last ones roll up in a spiral towards the back, reaching 60 cm length. Another object of tension, more recent: the mouflon causes the anger of farmers by attacking vines and fruit trees. The compensation that used to be allocated by the Cypriot state is no longer authorized by the EU. It is therefore feared that the inhabitants will start hunting it again, as in the early 20th century, when it had almost disappeared with only 15 individuals in 1930. Protected since 1939, it has flourished with about 3,000 individuals currently. But whereas it was present in all the island before, it lives now only in the forest of Paphos.
Wild donkey of Cyprus. Recently, it almost dethroned the mouflon of Cyprus as the emblem of the island. However, despite its name, it is not an endemic species and is not even considered a wild animal, but a domestic one. In fact, there are two imported breeds that cohabit and have adapted very quickly to their environment: on the one hand, the common donkey (Equus asinus) recognizable by its light-colored belly; on the other hand, the African wild donkey (Equus africanus asinus), smaller and gray, which is a subspecies of the common donkey. Used as pack animals, the donkeys were suddenly abandoned by farmers during the Turkish invasion of 1974. Faced with very harsh living conditions, they almost became extinct. Since 2008, they have been protected by the authorities of the southern and northern parts of Cyprus, with the creation of a nature reserve in the Karpas peninsula. The wild donkey of Cyprus has thus experienced a spectacular renaissance with now more than 2,700 individuals, 20% of which are still identified as wild donkeys from Africa.
Bats. There are 19 species, making the bat the most represented land mammal in Cyprus. With the exception of the Egyptian bat (Rousettus aegyptiacus) which is a fruit-eater, all feed on insects.
Red fox (Vulpes vulpes). Imported from France by the Lusignans in the Middle Ages, it is the only true predatory animal in Cyprus, and as such is essential for the balance of the ecosystem. Massacred for centuries by man, it would only count a few hundred individuals, mainly in the no man's land of the "green line" where it feeds on mice
Cyprus mouse (Mus cypriacus). Among the 6 species of mice and small rodents of Cyprus, it is the only one that is endemic. Living in the fields rather than in the city, it is a cousin of the Macedonian mouse (Mus macedonicus), and would have been isolated on the island 6 million years ago, developing larger ears and eyes. It is one of the very few endemic species of Cyprus to have survived the presence of man.
Other mammals. The island is home to two species of hares, the Cape hare (Lepus capensis), which came from Africa, and the European hare (Lepus europaeus). There is also the hedgehog (Hemiechinus auritus) from Asia, and the Eurasian wild boar (Sus scrofa), identical to that found in France.
Marine animals
The waters of the eastern Mediterranean are warmer and saltier, with a richer flora that has allowed the development (and preservation) of rare or unknown species in the south of France. Various agencies and associations offer diving among colorful fish and observations of sea turtles, dolphins and whales. But the development of tourism and global warming are gradually changing the environment, with the near disappearance of the monk seal and the recent appearance of the dangerous flying scorpion fish.
Sea turtles. Two of the five species of Mediterranean sea turtles have made Cyprus their main base for laying their eggs. These are the loggerhead (Caretta caretta), the most common with 2,000 individuals in the Mediterranean and classified as "vulnerable", 30% of whose nests are located on the island's beaches, and the green turtle (Chelonia mydas), rarer with 500 individuals and classified as "endangered", 20% of whose nests are in Cyprus. These large turtles, whose carapace can exceed 1 m in length, nest at the same period (May-August) for a similar incubation period (hatching between July and October) and share more or less the same beaches, all located on the northern coast, between the Akamas peninsula and the Karpas peninsula with the famous Turtle Beach (Alagadi), near Kyrenia/Girne, as the main nesting place. As both species are now well protected, their beaches are restricted to human access during the summer season
Dolphins and whales. In the northern and southern parts of the island, several boats offer excursions to observe or swim with the six species of dolphins living off the island, including the blue and white dolphin (Stenella coeruleoalba) and the bottlenose dolphin (Steno bredanensis). Three kinds of whales can also be seen: the small Cuvier's whale (Ziphius cavirostris), which looks like a large dolphin, and two species reaching 20 m in length, the fin whale (Balaenoptera physalus) and the sperm whale (Physeter macrocephalus).
Seal. Due to the development of tourism, the Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus) has almost disappeared from Cyprus in recent years. Less than ten specimens were counted in 2006, and only one was seen in 2019 off Protaras, near a rock formation aptly named Monachus monachus arch.
Fish. There are about 250 species of fish in Cypriot waters such as eel (Anguilla anguilla), conger eel (Conger conger) or dolphinfish (Copyphaena hippurus). In restaurants, we find mainly bluefin tuna (Thunnus thunnus), sea bass (Dicentrarchus labrax) and gilthead bream (Sparus aurata). These three also represent 80% of the production of aquaculture farms, a sector that has been expanding rapidly since the 2000s. Rarer on the menu and more expensive, but also more typical of the island: the mullet (Mugil cephalus) and the Cretan scare (Scarus cretensis), with particularly tasty flesh.
Dangerous species. Sharks are rare and the last fatal attack was in 1901. On the other hand, local fishermen know to beware of the swordfish (Xiphias gladius) with its 60 to 70 cm long rostrum and the moray eel (Muraena helena) with its razor-sharp teeth. But the most dangerous fish in Cypriot waters are those with venomous spines, such as the spider crab (Trachinus araneus) or the Mediterranean red scorpion fish (Scorpaena scrofa). And, above all, the one that worries local authorities the most is the flying scorpion fish (Pterois volitans), native to the Pacific Ocean and appeared off the island in 2012. Its highly venomous spines can cause paralysis or death in humans. Divers should expect to encounter it between 5 and 55 meters deep. Also called lionfish orred devilfish, it has already caused considerable damage to the local marine life. It is being intensively controlled and the EU considers Cyprus as the "first line of defense" to prevent the flying scorpionfish from invading the rest of European waters.
Reptiles, insects and arachnids
Snakes, spiders and scorpions are all over the island and some are potentially lethal to humans. But the real little beast to watch out for is the mosquito, the main vector of the East Nile virus. Fortunately, there are some magnificent butterflies that can be seen without fear.
Arachnids. This family includes both spiders and scorpions, some of which are dangerous here. Many of the spiders are poisonous, but none are deadly. There are several endemic species such as the Cyprus tarantula (Chaetopelma karlamani), which was only identified in 1997 and is also called the "wolf spider". Hairy and brownish in colour, it is only found in the northern part, in the rocky terrain east of Kyrenia and on the Karpas Peninsula. The effect of its venom is comparable to that of a bee, and if it is considered "aggressive", it generally prefers to flee from humans. Above all, beware of the toxic steatode (Steatoda paykulliana), locally known as the "black widow" or "widow of Cyprus", but which exists from the Middle East to Corsica. Recognizable by its bulbous, black, shiny and red-stained abdomen, it lives in arid areas as well as near water sources. The female is extremely poisonous, since her venom can kill a rat. In case of a bite, you must take a treatment very quickly, to avoid complications (vomiting, cramps and swelling that can last 5 days). Finally, let's mention the Cyprus jumping spider (Aelurillus cypriotus). Hairy, beige and almost cute with its large eyes, it jumps, frequents olive groves and old houses and its bite causes an impressive swelling. On the scorpion side, amateurs - it exists! - will note that two of the four species present are endemic and were discovered very recently. The vernacular name "Cyprus scorpion" is thus given to both Buthus kunti, identified in 2011, and Mesobuthus cyprius, reported in 2000. They rub shoulders with the Mediterranean scorpion (Mesobuthus gibbosus) and the Languedoc scorpion (Buthus occitanus). All are venomous, but none is dangerous to a healthy man (but be wary of children and weak people). And all four species are similar in appearance (yellow or sandy colour, 7 cm long) and present everywhere, with higher concentrations in the Paphos region, around Mount Olympus and in the Pentadactylos Mountains.
Insects. Beetles with multicoloured reflections, splendid butterflies, noisy cicadas, bees better preserved than in Western Europe... But among the 3,000 kinds of insects in Cyprus, it is the mosquitoes that are the talk of the town. Indeed, of all the animals, the common mosquito (Culex pipiens) is by far the most dangerous species, since it is the main vector of the West Nile virus, which is attributed with the death of at least two people in the country in 2019. The spread of the virus is unprecedented and now (in summer) affects the entire country. As there is no treatment, precautions should be taken: long, light-coloured clothes in the evening, insecticide, mosquito nets on windows. In another, lighter register, Cyprus is a delight for lepidopterists: butterfly specialists have listed 52 species of butterflies here, nine of which are endemic. Among the latter, the female Cyprus bilberry (Maniola cypricola) is distinguished by an orange patch surrounding a black eye-spot on each wing. And in the scrublands of the west and south of the island, the Blue Paphos Butterfly (Glaucopsyche paphos) has a uniform shade of a pretty blue in males, while females are more grey with multiple black eye-spots surrounded by white.
Reptiles. There are 10 species of snakes in Cyprus, mainly snakes, non venomous, except for the Montpellier snake (Malpolon monspessulanus). But this one is peaceful and its hooks are set back, so you really have to put your finger in its mouth to be bitten. In fact, only the Levant viper (Macrovipera lebetina), the only viper on the island, presents a real danger. Thick, short (from 1.3 to 1.7 m long) and with rectangular patterns, it only attacks when it is surprised. And while it is potentially fatal, none of the 20 attacks recorded each year on average has resulted in deaths in Cyprus since the year 2000. The Ravergier snake (Hemorrhois nummifer), with its brown ringed body, is also a very aggressive snake with sharp teeth. There are two endemic snake species on the island, the Cyprus grass snake(Natrix Natrix Cypriaca) and the Cyprus whip snake(Dolichophis cypriensis), which are threatened with extinction by intensive agriculture. As for turtles, apart from those living at sea (see above), Cyprus is home to the Caspian emyde(Mauremys caspica), an aquatic species from the Middle East. Finally, the lizard family is present with 11 species, including the common chameleon (Chamaeleo chamaeleon), the Kotschy gecko (Mediodactylus kotschyi ) and the endemic Troodos lizard (Phoenicolacerta troodica). The latter is small (12 cm long) with a long tail and lives in the rocks of the Troodos, avoiding the hottest hours to go out.
The birds
Like the famous flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus) on the salt lake of Larnaka, most of the 400 species of birds in Cyprus are migrants from Africa and the Middle East. In winter, the skies are almost empty, with only 53 species permanently resident on the island
Migratory birds. Between spring and autumn, millions of them nest or stop over here. In February the first passerines and swallows arrive, followed by the magnificent jay cuckoo (Clamator glandarius). March brings Aristophanes' "queen bird", the hoopoe (Upupa epops), but also the anteater torcol (Jynx torquilla), a flock of larks, warblers, pipits, buntings and wagtails, or the first bird of prey, the pale harrier (Circus macrourus). In April the marsh dwellers settle in with various species of egrets, waders and herons. It is also the month of colourful birds such as the European roller (Coracias garrulus). Nesting begins for about 40 species, including the Griffon Vulture (Gyps fulvus), Bonelli's Eagle (Aquila fasciata), the Ferocious Buzzard (Buteo rufinus) and the Eleonora's Falcon (Falco eleonorae). In the fall, other large birds stop over on their way back from Europe. The most impressive visitors are the pelicans, including the very rare curly pelican (Pelecanus crispus). But there are also storks - black (Ciconia nigra) and white (Ciconia ciconia) -, Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus), pomarine eagle (Clanga pomarina), bee-eater (Pernis apivorus), black kite (Milvus migrans), kestrel (Falco naumanni), and so on
Endemic species. Among the six endemic species and subspecies of the island, two spend their "winter holidays" in the Near East and Africa: the Cyprus warbler (Sylvia melanothorax) and the Cyprus traquet (Oenanthe cypriaca). The Dorothea creeper (Certhia brachydactyla dorotheae), the Cypriot jay (Garrulus glandarius glaszneri), the Cyprus screech owl (Otus cyprius) and the Cyprus black tit (Periparus ater cypriotes) are true sedentary birds.
