The time of the Knights
With six centuries of tradition, Malta's carnival is one of the oldest in Europe. And it is first and foremost a matter for the Knights and the decisions of the Grand Masters. The first carnival was held in Vittoriosa (Birgu) in 1535, during the reign of Grand Master Pietro del Ponte. As a prelude to Lent, the Knights, freshly landed from Rhodes, were given exceptional permission - with the idea of maintaining their military qualities - to organize games, tournaments and battles with dummy weapons to the glory of the order. As early as 1560, the carnival's atmosphere changed when the more flexible Grand Master Jean de Valette authorized the public to wear masks and decorate boats for Mardi Gras. But in 1639, carnival suffered a conservative setback when Grand Master Jean-Paul de Lascaris-Castellar decided to ban devil costumes and masks for women. The latter risked nothing less than being whipped in the public square. It lasted three days and began with the hanging of a stone on the façade of the Castellania, the Palace of Justice, which meant that all legal proceedings were suspended for the duration of the carnival. Gradually, carnival took on many influences, including commemorations and traditions. Under the Knights, it began to commemorate Malta's victory over the Turks in 1565, by dancing the parata, a sword dance during which everyone is dressed as a Christian or a Turk. Today, it's mainly children who take part in the dance, but the parata has a special significance in the history of Maltese carnival. In 1721, grandmaster Marc'Antonio Zondarari added the traditional game of kukkanja (Land of plenty). On Carnival Monday, the crowd gathered in the palace square to tackle beams attached to rope ladders and covered with tree leaves, from which eggs, cold meats and sometimes live animals were suspended, the aim being to bring back as many provisions as possible.
Time for satire
Under British occupation, Carnival became an opportunity to mock the colonists. And little by little, political satire took root in the carnival scene, as it did in all carnivals held in countries under British domination. This was particularly true in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Mordantly ironic floats made a point of mocking local politicians and unpopular government decisions. So much so that a law passed in 1936 banned this political satire, and the ban lasted until 2013... 2014 also saw the return of another practice, the quarcilla, or wandering farce, which was held during Valletta's carnival until the early 20thcentury . This is a parody of a marriage ceremony: a man dressed as a notary reads a marriage contract written in verse and with very green language. The first was written for the 1760 carnival by poet P. Felic Demarco, and the 2014 version by Maltese writer Trevor Zahra. Performed by a variety of actors, this parody of a wedding ceremony took to the streets of Valletta.
Variations on the carnival theme
2014 saw another first: the twinning of the Maltese carnival with the Caribbean-flavored Notting Hill carnival in London, with Sureya John, queen of the British carnival, as the star of this edition. From now on, however, it will be organized by the Malta Council for Culture and the Arts, and over the course of a year, it will be meticulously prepared by all the local associations in Malta's towns and villages. The result is a 5-day festival in February, exactly 7 Sundays before Easter. The most important festivities take place in Valletta and the nearby district of Floriana, but many other towns and villages also have their own parades, as does the island of Gozo, which gives it its own special character. Satire always has its place, but the festivities also include a wide range of other cultural activities: dance competitions, float parades and children in fancy dress, etc. Prizes are awarded for the best performances in each category. Prizes are awarded for the best artistic dances, costumes, floats and masks. In Valletta, the festivities begin in George's Square with a dance competition. There are also DJ performances in Triton Square, which are of course broadcast on social networks, and the highlight is Saturday, the day of the big parade. The floats depart from the Place de Castille, passing through the Granaries in Floriana, and then on to a number of iconic sites such as Great Siege Road, Merchants Street, Archbishop Street, Republic Street and City Gate. The event culminates in a masked ball and fireworks display from Marsamxett Harbour. Carnival embraces the whole archipelago with its madness and festivities, but the island of Gozo has given it a special twist. Gozo first organized its own float parades in 1952. In Victoria, the capital, the festivities take place in the main squares: It Tokk and Nadur. On this occasion, there will be performances by traditional, spontaneous Gozitan folk groups known as "L-Ghana". And if you prefer a more informal atmosphere, head to Nadur, another of Gozo's major towns, where the carnival is more macabre, more satirical and also more spontaneous, even explosive. Nothing is prepared in advance, and many revelers simply gather in the town squares, often dressed in strange and grotesque costumes. It's more of a Halloween vibe, with parties in bars and DJs. Whatever mood you'd like to immerse yourself in - festive but family-friendly, or downright wacky - you'll find what you're looking for. But there's one tradition you absolutely must follow: tasting the Prinjolata, the pastry traditionally made at carnival time, a bell-shaped cake made of almonds and eggs and covered with meringue, chocolate and candied fruit. A must-try to keep up with the frenetic pace of these carnivals.
