From the airport to the city centre Thailand
From Suvarnabhumi airport ("Sou'vanapoum" for cab drivers):
By bus. Several buses run between the airport and various parts of Bangkok, the cheapest but longest way. To get there, first go to the "Transportation Center" a few kilometers from the terminal (free shuttle), then choose the bus according to your direction. Buses run from 5 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day. Allow around an hour and a half for the journey (unless there's a traffic jam!).
By shuttle bus. A private company, Airport Express, takes passengers directly to the2nd floor of the air terminal. This was the best value for money before the train connected the city center. Nowadays, these services appear to be much less economical. Buses connect some of Bangkok's "strategic" locations to Suvarnabhumi airport. Fare: 150 B per person. There is about one departure per hour, every half-hour in high season.
Buses run directly to Pattaya from the airport. Offices next to Airport Express offices.
By train. This means of transport is an intermediate solution between cab and bus. Comfortable and fast (in 15 minutes) if you take the express train (in the other direction, 1 train every 30 minutes from Makkasan station) or the city train (in the other direction, 1 train every 15 minutes from Phaya Thai station in the Siam district). At present, the express line costs B100 and the city line B50. This should rise in the near future, when it will be possible to check in your luggage at the station, which can be very practical. Ideal for people traveling alone. For more information, visit www.bangkokairporttrain.com.
By cab. Cabs are the quickest, most comfortable and most economical way to travel with several people, but also the most expensive if you're traveling alone. Expect to pay between B400 and B500 on the expressway (with a toll of B65). A fee of B50 is also added in the direction from the airport to the city center. Allow a minimum of 40 minutes, or more depending on traffic jams. Cabs are available from the arrivals hall. Remember to ask for the taxi-meter , and whenever possible refuse a lump sum, which is always higher than the normal fare.
Arrival by train Thailand
The rail network works fairly well. Trains do not serve all towns (Phuket or Krabi, for example), not to mention the crowds and the need for advance reservations: beware of the holiday periods, which are numerous in Thailand.
If you're not in too much of a hurry, the train remains a good alternative, and the fares of the State Railway of Thailand (www.railway.co.th/main/index_en.html) are the same for all users.
A long-distance transit in couchette carriages is an interesting solution, and allows you to arrive at your destination in the morning while saving a night's hotel accommodation. The2nd class sleeper may be sufficient for overnight travel, but 1st class is recommended for those who want a minimum of privacy. Please note that these compartments are not available on all trains. Up-to-date timetables (with the names of the main cities written in English) are available at all major stations.
The fastest (and therefore most expensive) trains have a dining car, but you can ask to be served in your car, at your seat. The rail network is subdivided as follows:
Northern Line. Bangkok-Chiang Mai via Don Mueang, Ayutthaya, Phitsanulok and Lampang.
Northeastern Line (Nong Khai). Bangkok-Nong Khai via Ayutthaya, Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, terminating in Vientiane (Laos).
Northeastern Line (Ubon Ratchathani). Bangkok-Ubon Ratchathani via Ayutthaya, Khorat, Pak Chong and Surin and Si Saket.
Eastern Line (Ban Pu Ta Luang). Bangkok-Aranya Prathet to the Cambodian border at Poipet, then on to Phnom Penh with Royal Railway (Cambodia). Bangkok-Sattahip via Pattaya.
Southern Line. Bangkok-Su-ngai Kolok crossing the Malaysian border via Phetchaburi, Cha'Am, Hua Hin, Prachuap Khiri Khan, Chumphon, Surat Thani, Phatthalung, Hat Yai and Yala. The same line crosses the Malaysian peninsula to Singapore via Butterworth (Penang) and Kuala Lumpur.
Southern Line (Namtok Branch). This actually serves the west of the country, from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi (bridge over the River Kwai), terminating in Namtok.
Reservations
Stations in all major cities are now computerized. They are open from 8.30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 8.30 a.m. to 12 p.m. at weekends. At Bangkok's new Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station (Bang Sue Grand Station), you can contact the Advance Booking Office, open daily from 7am to 4pm. If you don't want to travel to the station in question, the (slightly more expensive) alternative is to use a travel agency that can take care of your reservations. Please note: the train ticket must be given to you personally, and not simply a reservation ticket.
Various extras. To be sure of having a berth, we recommend booking the day before, and even several days before departure if possible. For holiday periods, make your reservation a good month before departure! Trains are the most economical means of transport, and therefore highly sought-after...
Arrival by boat Thailand
River transport. Whenever possible (especially in Bangkok), don't hesitate to use the more or less fast water buses that run smoothly on canals and rivers. This mode of transport is widely used by the local population and is therefore very inexpensive in the city (7 to 30 B). It's also a great way to discover Thailand in a different way.
Island shuttles. Some longtail boats designed for seafaring (heavier hulls) are used to transfer passengers to islands, weather permitting (Krabi, Koh Phi Phi). Generally speaking, however, ferries (transporting vehicles and passengers) or express boats (transporting passengers with elongated hulls like those of an airplane) shuttle passengers between the islands and the mainland. Connections are interrupted by high winds and heavy seas, and shuttles are suspended during the monsoon season (late June to early October for the Andaman coast).
Some examples of shuttles:
Ferry to Koh Chang.
- Caboteur to Koh Samet or Koh Lanta.
- Ferry or express boat between Surat Thani and Koh Samui, Koh Phangan or Chumphon and Koh Tao.
- Express boat to Koh Tarutao or Koh Lipe from Pak Bara.
- Express boat also to Koh Phi Phi from Phuket or Koh Lanta from Krabi.
Public transport Thailand
Bus
Buses in Bangkok, which are no longer very young, are generally packed... On the other hand, although traffic in the city may seem complicated and you need to be patient, public transport (bus or metro for that matter) is nonetheless satisfactory and very inexpensive. It's essential to have seen the route on a city map in advance and to have taken a few reference points (temples, shopping centers, banks), as other passengers rarely understand English!
Intercity buses. There's something for every taste and budget: ordinary, AC (blue), NAC (orange), VIP, mini, private... For longer distances, connections are usually well organized:
Ordinary public buses. Prices vary from company to company. Every city has a public bus terminal, or bus station, called Bokhoso (short for Borisat Khon Song). Fares and timetables are posted. These public buses are said to be more reliable than private ones, even if they are sometimes older, slower and less comfortable.
Minibuses or minivans. These collective transports (9 to 11 passengers) can be a very interesting alternative on medium-distance routes (Bangkok to Pattaya, for example). They're faster than ordinary buses, since they don't make intermediate stops, but they often don't leave until they're full! They are also more expensive than public buses. There's often little room to load luggage inside, but they're usually equipped with a roof rack (so be careful about securing your bag!). Avoid the back seats, which are smaller and less comfortable.
Bus 1st class AC (Air Conditioning). 36 or 44 seats. Reclining seats (a little) and on-board toilets. The most reliable solution in Bangkok is still to get yourself to the Mo Chit bus station to take off (by metro or cab), sharing the journey with locals, instead of trusting any agency in Khao San!
VIP bus. 24 AC seats. These are the most expensive buses (Very Important Person!) and, in fact, the ones that are systematically offered to tourists in transit. These buses provide comfortable travel between Bangkok and the country's main cities. Seats recline (a little more). Toilets and air-conditioning work as usual! And a hostess is even on hand to serve passengers... drinks and snacks. Best of all, these coaches go straight to their destination with a minimum of stops.
Buy your ticket. Buying a bus ticket at a bus station isn't complicated and only takes a few minutes: there are departures almost every hour (choose the morning for short stages or the evening for very long overnight distances). Only cash is accepted. Fares are marked in black and white. It is possible to enquire at one (or two) of the agencies for timetables if you feel this is essential. Doing your best to obtain this information in advance (the day before, at the latest) is always preferable. Thailand's national tourist office - the Tourism Authority of Thailand or TAT - is on hand in every major regional city to provide information (usually in English), including free maps, addresses, timetables and brochures (accommodation, transport, points of interest). It's well worth dropping in for at least one visit for each different region (note that the offices close around 4.30pm). This generally reliable local information, added to that provided in the modest guidebook you're holding, should normally make things easier for you. Of course, TAT can first provide you with information on the city you're in (location of bus station or opening hours of a service), and may also be able to make a phone call for you (in Thai). The fare information provided by this organization is fairly reliable.
Flights. Several airlines share the domestic flight market, including Thai Airways (www.thaiairways.com), Air Asia (www.airasia.com/en/gb), Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com), Nok Air (www.nokair.com) and Kan Air (ww.kanairlines.com).
Bangkok-Chiang Mai: 567 km, 1 hour 10 minutes.
Bangkok-Chiang Rai: 667 km, 1 hour 25 minutes.
Bangkok-Udon Thani: 453 km, 1 hour.
Bangkok-Ubon Ratchaburi: 482 km, 1 hour 05 minutes.
Bangkok-Phuket: 720 km, 1 hour 20 minutes.
Bangkok-Samui: 472 km, 1 hour 05.
Bangkok-Surat Thani: 555 km, 1 hour 05.
Chiang Mai-Phuket: 1,187 km, 2 hours 05 minutes.
Chiang Mai-Mae Hong Son: 119 km, 30 min.
Bike, scooters & co Thailand
Some establishments provide bicycles free of charge for their guests, particularly on certain islands or in rural areas.
Motorbikes/Scooters. You won't learn to ride a motorcycle or scooter in Thailand. Rates range from B200 to B500 per day. Beware: the rule when renting a two-wheeler in Thailand is "no license, no insurance". No rental company in Phuket will ask you for a large-cube license for a "V Max" or a Harley, nor any insurance (theft, for example). However, they will ask for your passport as a guarantee, which they will keep until the bike is returned. It's a good idea to take photos of the bike from all angles with the service provider, to avoid any misunderstandings when you return it (for example, sometimes you'll be asked to pay for a scratch on the front paintwork, and you'll have to pay to get your passport back!) And don't forget, in the event of an accident, you'll have to pay for the consequences!
Wearing a helmet is of course recommended, for your own safety and to avoid police harassment. It's also a good idea to have an international license (good-quality photocopy to keep with you), which will be required in the event of problems with the police. Let's hear it! And don't forget to say a few prayers before setting off on your daily adventure: accidents don't just happen to other people (around 400 deaths a year on Koh Samui, for example, according to the latest statistics). Speaking of thefts, which are becoming more and more common in the city: your vehicle should sleep wisely in front of your hotel's (sleeping) security guard and be immobilized with a strong chain and a large padlock, or, better still, in an inner courtyard. A pre-departure mechanical check-up is a must. Be meticulous and trust only yourself. The maintenance of vehicles in some establishments is more than random! Avoid driving alone over long distances, in sensitive areas (such as the Burmese border) or on mountain roads. You should never find yourself isolated in the event of an accident.
Bicycles. Available in some guesthouses and hotels. Rentals average between B50 and B70 per day. If you're planning a long trip through Thailand, you'll be able to transport your mount by plane or train. Be aware, however, of the risk of collision with motorcycles and trucks, which you'll have to negotiate at all costs...
With a driver Thailand
Cabs. Cabs offer a reliable and reasonably-priced alternative for us foreigners: don't forget to ask for the meter, which is often preferable to the excessive fare offered before the journey. Cars are generally recent and air-conditioned. The minimum fare is B35, and rarely exceeds B200 in the city, unless there's a traffic jam. Some drivers may want to impose a fixed price (especially at night): simply refuse and use another cab. Unmetered cars are usually marked "Taxi", while metered cabs are marked "Taxi Meter".
Fares are as follows: B35 for pick-up (from 0 to 2 km), then B5 per kilometer covered. Pick-ups from or to Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi airport cost B50.
Tip: you can also download the Grab or InDriver application onto your phone. It's the local equivalent of Uber.
Motorcycle cabs. The radical solution for avoiding traffic jams is not the tuk-tuk, which is a little too wide, noisy and smelly, but motorcycle cabs, which can always squeeze between the cars (watch out for protruding knees!). They can be spotted by the orange bibs worn by drivers waiting for customers on certain street corners. Bring small bills and change to pay for your trip, as drivers rarely have any. Always negotiate the price before departure, never on arrival, to avoid unfortunate disputes! Expect to pay between B20 and B100 on average.
Song téo "two rows". This is a shared cab with two side benches installed in a covered pick-up, with access via the rear step. Some are more modern, converted Japanese minibuses. All provincial towns have a public transport service using these shared cabs (gradually being replaced by buses), following well-defined routes. As long as you have a map of the city (TAT) and a few landmarks (temples, shopping malls, major hotels) to help you make sense of them, they're certainly the most economical way to get around, as the fare is the same for everyone, whatever the length of the journey (10 to 30 B).
Tuk-tuk. You've been dreaming about it, and here it is, the famous three-wheeled motorized vehicle whose name comes from the characteristic noise of its exhaust pipe. Very noisy, and polluting too! Give it a try, and experience the joys of sharp turns and jerky acceleration... when cars are willing to let you pass! As prices are equivalent to those of Bangkok cabs (much more so in practice), you might as well trust the latter, whose drivers are less nervous and more honest. Tuk-tuk drivers have a bad habit of taking unsuspecting tourists to the address of a store or hotel, who will pay them a commission for this job. Try it in Chiang Mai rather than Bangkok: it's cheaper and nicer too. Rates normally start at between B50 and B100 for insiders. The fare must be clearly agreed before departure, otherwise you risk paying double!
By car Thailand
Road conditions. Thailand's road network is quite good, and some roads are even excellent. The main roads converge on the capital. During the monsoon season, Bangkok's roads become veritable torrents, but this never lasts very long. On the other hand, even in the city, excavation work is often poorly signalled (or not signalled at all), which is obviously very dangerous if you don't have time to brake!
Freeways. To date, only the city of Bangkok, the country's central region and a few stretches near Phuket have genuine freeways, often with tolls: between 20 and 70 B. The main national highways are in fact our expressways, doubled on some sections or with a common third overtaking lane in the best of cases. Otherwise, a simple widened road, for increasingly dense traffic.
Main roads :
- H1. Bangkok, Nakhon Sawan, Tak, Chiang Rai, which should become part of the Beijing-Singapore Trans-Asian Highway.
- H2. Bangkok, Khorat, Nong Khai, also known as the Friendship Highway; in fact, a gift from the Americans in days gone by - not exactly friends of the nearby Vietnamese.
- H3. Bangkok, Pattaya, Rayong, Trat, or Sukhumvit freeway, as it extends this avenue.
- H4. Bangkok, Hua Hin, Ranong, Hat Yai, the southern part of the Trans-Asian Highway.
Warning: traffic speed is limited to 90 km/h. In the event of speeding after a radar check, ask (politely) to see the photos before paying the fine.
Risks and warnings. As far as driving is concerned: the French drive on the right, the English on the left and the Thais theoretically like the English... but in fact wherever they can! And you have to get used to it (you learn fast!). Traffic in the city is generally quite dense, both day and night in the capital - impressive but not so dangerous. Road signs are mostly in Thai, sometimes in English.
Objectively, it's not really advisable for a foreigner to drive a vehicle on the road, given the driving behaviour of the locals. Thai drivers do not hesitate to take certain liberties with the highway code: blind overtaking on slopes or on right and left-hand bends and, of course, disregarding road markings! In addition, priorities are random and the use of indicators is superfluous. What's more, speeding trucks or (tourist) buses can be life-threatening, and motorcycle accidents are commonplace!
Local drivers are not necessarily insured, and hit-and-runs are not uncommon. Finally, if there is any doubt as to who is responsible for an accident, the blame will readily be attributed to the wealthy foreigner (which is why it's a good idea to call the Tourist Police immediately, who will do their best to iron out any difficulties).
A tip that could save your life: when you see a vehicle approaching from the opposite direction, starting an overtaking manoeuvre while flashing its headlights or blowing its horn, brake immediately and clear the way (all the more quickly if it's a truck): be sure that the driver is firm in his intention to continue his manoeuvre. Similarly, if an irresponsible driver overtakes you when the way is not clear (basically, a truck is coming in front), he will prefer a side impact to a head-on collision, i.e. he will simply eject you from the road to protect himself.
Car rental. If you plan to drive a vehicle in Thailand, an international driving license is required, and international assistance insurance is recommended. Check that there are no geographical restrictions: be sure to read the policy's terms and conditions before you leave. If not, Visa cards also include a medical assistance clause. As far as formalities are concerned, international companies require a minimum of two years' driving experience, a minimum age of 23 and an international driving license, which you can obtain from the local prefecture. International rental companies (Avis, Hertz, SMT...) are generally more expensive, but, with a deductible of B5,000 to B20,000, they offer a real guarantee. On the other hand, local companies are not always reliable when it comes to insurance, and the consequences can be painful.
Accessibility Thailand
The BTS and MRT in Bangkok have elevators and are accessible to baby carriages and wheelchairs. As for buses, the problem is quite different.
Tourist traps Thailand
Don't confuse the TAT (Tourism Authority of Thailand) with a private travel agency whose license has been "approved by the TAT" (an agency that has usurped the name, as is the case around Hua Lamphong central station in Bangkok). The difference is simple: TAT never sells any services or tickets, and the information provided is always free of charge. TAT's offices are located in official administrative buildings marked as such (national flag) and never in "street corner" agencies. Above all, TAT never solicits. It should be noted that a sign indicating "Tourist Information" generally indicates a private commercial agency whose real aim is to sell some kind of service (sometimes interesting) in addition to the tourist information in question: not to be confused with the national tourist office described above!
When renting a scooter, take photos of it in front of your service provider to avoid any conflict. Some unscrupulous agencies will tell you when you return the scooter that you've damaged it - a pretext for extorting money and not returning your passport!