Organize your stay Ethiopia
Money Ethiopia
Currency. Ethiopia's currency, the birr (pronounced "beur"), is subdivided into 100, 50, 10.5 and 1 birr bills and 50, 25, 10, 5 and 1 centime coins. In practice, as a faranji you'll only have banknotes, and even then not 1 birr, or at the very most coins of 50 or 25 birrs, but no less. On many occasions, people will try to give you a "mistigri", a banknote in an advanced state of decomposition, which everyone is trying to get rid of. It's not forbidden to refuse them, although you shouldn't expect to receive bills in perfect condition. On this point, it should be noted that the tribes of southern Ethiopia are very demanding when it comes to the quality of banknotes (which do not keep well in such an environment). So it's a good idea to set aside any new 5-10 birr bills, to be used in payment of the "right to photograph" regularly demanded in the region.
Exchange rates. In November 2023, the exchange rate was : 60 birrs = €1; 100 birrs = €1.65.
Smart tip: cash withdrawal. Virtually every hotel in Bole or the city center has its own ATM outside the door. If you don't have any birr when you arrive, don't panic, there's an ATM at the airport, or simply ask the driver to stop in town on the way - there are plenty of banks. The maximum withdrawal is 4,000 birr. Please note that there is normally only one exchange office at the airport's Terminal 1, where you can exchange birr for euros at a much lower rate than the other way round. However, this is the only place where you can exchange birr in the terminal. So don't withdraw too much money at the end of your stay, or you'll be left with birr to spare.
Where to withdraw? Most cash dispensers are located in Addis Ababa.
Cash withdrawals can be made easily in the country's major cities: Addis Ababa, Lalibela, Aksum, Gondar, Bahar Dar, Nazret, Debre Zeit, Dire Dawa, Harar, Awassa, Arba Minch, Jimma and Gambela. In recent years, regional banks have equipped themselves with ATMs. But as a precaution, before you leave the capital, be sure to withdraw the sums you need for your travels, especially those in the far south.
Payment by credit card. In Addis Ababa, the use of credit cards is limited to paying for the best hotels and airlines, including Ethiopian Airlines. Outside the capital, credit cards are only accepted by a few major hotels in Lalibela, Aksum, Gondar and Bahar Dar. For the rest, you'll need to withdraw cash from an ATM.
Budget & Tips Ethiopia
It's best to budget a minimum of €50 per day, i.e. €20 for accommodation and €30 for all other expenses, from food to local guides, buses, cabs, etc. If you're staying in charming lodges with high-end restaurants in tourist areas, you're better off budgeting €100 to €150 per day.
Domestic flights are very reasonably priced (€50 on average) if you have bought your tickets at the resident fare (if you have taken an international Ethiopian Airlines flight, this is possible). Otherwise, fares soar (up to triple the price). Luxury" buses have multiplied to link the country's main cities, and the new Addis Ababa-Djibouti train, which passes through Dire Dawa, has just entered service. Journeys cost just a few dozen euros.
Passport and visas Ethiopia
Passport. To enter Ethiopia, you need a passport valid for at least six months from the date of your return ticket, with two pages still blank.
Visa and e-visa. It is no longer possible to obtain a visa directly at the border, as was the case before the war in Tigray. The e-visa is now compulsory, and if you don't obtain it in advance, the airline won't let you on the plane. You can pre-register on the Ethiopian embassy website - make sure you go to the official site, www.evisa.gov.et. The single-entry tourist visa, valid for thirty days, costs US$82. Although in theory it can be obtained after three to four working days, we advise you to apply well in advance or, better still, directly at the Ethiopian embassy in Paris. A 30-day extension to your tourist visa costs US$ 102.
Ethiopian Embassy in Paris (35 avenue Charles Floquet, 75007 Paris ; +331 82 73 25 86 ; www.ambassade-ethiopie.fr ; [email protected]). Open Monday to Friday, 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. If you live in Paris or nearby, we advise you to apply for your visa directly at the embassy. You can also apply by post using a Fedex or UPS prepaid letter.
Driver's license Ethiopia
There's no need to think about driving in Ethiopia: the roads are rough and difficult, there are lots of buses and trucks overtaking at random, and in any case nobody will give you the keys to a 4 x 4. Here, you rent a vehicle with driver as a minimum, with driver and guide (it's possible to find French-speaking ones) for the most expensive agencies. You can also hire local guides on site for each visit, especially as they are often compulsory, so your personal guide comes in addition to the local guides.
Health Ethiopia
Travellers are advised to take anti-malarial medication before and during their stay in Ethiopia, especially for those visiting the south, as the highlands are malaria-free.
In the event of illness: contact the French consulate. They will be happy to help and accompany you, and will provide you with a list of French-speaking doctors. In the event of a serious problem, the consulate will also inform the family and decide on repatriation. For a list of emergency services and facilities meeting international standards, visit www.diplomatie.gouv.fr and www.pasteur.fr.
Locally. You'll find local clinics, hospitals and pharmacies to deal with all your minor health problems. Hospitals are either public or private. Each region and district also has a high-quality public health service. Churches and the main public services (army, police, fire department, etc.) also have hospitals that are often better equipped than public hospitals, resulting in a two-tier health system. Pharmacies can sell you all the antibiotics you want on request (for food poisoning with or without fever, bronchitis, urinary tract infection, etc.).
Mandatory vaccination Ethiopia
All vaccinations are recommended, but none are compulsory. Except for travellers coming from countries where yellow fever is endemic, in which case you'll need to present a vaccination booklet with the "yellow fever" stamp, which is valid for life. From Europe, it is not compulsory, but strongly recommended. Vaccinations, in particular BCG, hepatitis A and B, measles, meningitis (Ethiopia lies on what is known as the African meningitis group A belt) and typhoid (valid for three years), are also highly recommended. Rabies vaccination is recommended for those at risk.
For more information, visit the French Ministry of Health website (www.sante. gouv.fr) to find vaccination centers near you.
Security Ethiopia
Ethiopia was an unstable country at the end of 2023, but violence against foreigners is rare, even if a few rules of caution are necessary to varying degrees depending on the region. The recent war in Tigray and unrest in the Amhara region have drastically reduced the safe tourist zone. The north of the country is currently uninhabitable. The west of the country, near the border with South Sudan, towards Gambela, has been unstable for many years and is not tourist-friendly. For the latest information on local safety, consult the "Conseils aux voyageurs" section of the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website.
In Addis Ababa, where acts of violence are rare, the greatest danger comes from pickpockets who operate in the overcrowded neighborhoods, mainly in Mercato and Piazza, or on public transport and in bus stations. This warning applies to most major cities. The most basic precaution is to keep your money with you, in a closed pocket or, ideally, in a money belt. As daily expenses rarely exceed 300 or 400 birr, it's also a good idea to set this sum aside in denominations of varying value, so as not to have to show off a wad of cash every time you make a payment. The other rule of thumb is to take cabs, especially at night, and if possible by mobile app, so that the car and driver can be traced.
In the South and East. These are still safe tourist areas, as they are populated by nomads who are often in conflict with each other over grazing or cattle theft, and armed with Kalashnikovs, but who do not attack tourists. Nevertheless, it pays to find out about the stability of these outlying regions before setting off, as it's obviously never a good idea to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. In Awassa, avoid going to Mount Tabor, as several tourists have been attacked and had their belongings stolen during their hike.
It is best to avoid the Jijiga region and the whole border area with Somalia, until the unrest in Somalia has subsided. While Harar is safe, the same cannot be said of the Ogaden region, which is isolated and frequented by smugglers.
In Danakil, security conditions have been relaxed since the signing of the peace agreement with Eritrea, whereas previously a military escort was required to travel in this region. One scout is now required per car for the day, as in a national park.
Where wild animals are concerned, a few rules of caution also apply. Among the most frequently observed, the hippopotamus remains potentially the most dangerous (it is the animal that causes the most deaths on the continent every year) and, strangely enough, can prove more formidable out of the water than submerged. It is therefore inadvisable to approach this behemoth from the shore. For the rest, trust the boatmen, who know the animal's reactions.
Although swimming opportunities are rare in Ethiopia (only a few rivers and Lake Langano), you shouldn't risk it just anywhere, as crocodiles frequent most aquatic areas. When in doubt, it's wise to stay away from the banks, especially when they are covered in tall grass.
This advice should be taken particularly seriously by fishermen and rafters.
In the lowlands, especially in the Danakil Desert, campers should be careful to shake off their shoes before putting them on, as scorpions may have taken refuge there.
Begging. It's a good idea to prepare oneself psychologically for the sight of misery, which can be hard to bear. Begging is therefore omnipresent, especially around places of worship and at major crossroads, but it is never aggressive. There's nothing to stop you carrying pennies and handing out coins, especially when beggars are seated, as when leaving churches. Pennies allow you to give to more people, more regularly than 1 or 5 birr bills, which are a more substantial obolus and are more like a tip for a small service rendered.
It is sometimes useful to have a supply of mineral water to offer to workers on mountain roads, or even empty bottles, which are much appreciated in the far south as they serve as containers. Children in the countryside are always keen to have a pen or a notebook, as school supplies, although minimal, weigh heavily on the family budget.
Time difference Ethiopia
Ethiopia's time zone is GMT + 3h all year round, as there is no summer time here. The time difference with France is therefore + 2h in winter and + 1h in summer.
Spoken languages Ethiopia
Of the 290 or so languages and dialects listed, Oromo and Amharic are the most widely spoken, along with Tigrayan. English is spoken to a greater or lesser extent in hotels and tourist resorts.
Communication Ethiopia
Many hotels have Wi-Fi, and in Addis Ababa some even have self-service computers. However, we recommend that you take an Ethiopian SIM card, as this is the most practical and secure option, as the WiFi network is often not stable. With 3G, the Internet works fine.
Electricity and measurements Ethiopia
No change of scenery when it comes to electricity (220 V), although a multi-socket adapter is sometimes useful.
Luggage Ethiopia
The type of trip, the means of transport chosen and the level of comfort required by each person generally determine the weight of the luggage. However, a few tips may be useful.
Even in the dry season, it's important to remember that in Ethiopia, travellers regularly find themselves at altitudes above 2,500 m, and sometimes much higher. While summer clothes are appropriate during the day, warm clothing is never too much in the evening. Rain can be intermittent on certain days, as Ethiopia is a very green country, so take a raincoat for showers too.
Remember to take good trekking gear if you plan to hike in the Simien, Bale or Lasta, and vaporous, covering clothes if you're going into the scorching Danakil desert or the sweltering Omo valley. Remember to take mosquito repellent and malaria prophylaxis if you're going to low-lying areas at altitude, where mosquitoes swarm and the disease is rife. Avoid wearing blue or black in the Omo Valley because of the tsetse flies.
Ethiopians, both Orthodox and Muslim, are very respectful of places of worship. So avoid shorts and tank tops when visiting (and for women under all circumstances in Muslim areas, especially Harar). In any case, you'll need to cover up to enter the churches, so plan on wearing pants and a shawl covering your shoulders and arms, and arrive decently dressed for the country. Don't hesitate to buy the traditional white scarves to blend in with the crowd of Orthodox Christians dressed in white.
On the other hand, if you're a woman, take a few dresses or evening wear too, if you want to go out in Addis Ababa, where the golden youth is very well dressed and it would be a shame to arrive in trekking gear! The clubs make sure that their clientele arrive at least minimally dressed for going out. For men, pants or jeans are de rigueur in the evening too.
