Potosí was one of the most influential cities in the world at the time of the Conquistadores. Cerro Rico or the rich mountain at the foot of which the city was built was an extraordinary silver mine with almost pure silver veins 1 to 2 metres thick. After the 19th century, money became scarce. The city then began its economic decline, but the mine remained the main activity in the region and it was possible to go to the mines to really appreciate what a mine was and the difficult working conditions of the miners.

The miners then regrouped in cooperatives

Each cooperative is in charge of a hose from the mine and they must pay 25% of their profit to the owner. Their salaries depend on performance with very difficult working conditions and many accidents. While some veins have provided mechanized installations, most are more rustic with carts weighing several tons pushed by hand and shovels to fill them. It can also be very hot inside the mine, if dust and altitude are added, respiratory conditions are not optimal even if long pipes are used to supply oxygen. Life expectancy is sadly 40 to 45 years

Before entering the mine, you must go to the miners' market

Local agencies work in partnership with miners' cooperatives and allow tourists to meet them. The idea is not to go and make selfies, but to realize and contribute to their income. Indeed, part of the price of the visit is given to the minors and purchases are made for them on the market. They go there themselves every day to buy pure alcohol and coca leaves to keep up, but also helmets, lamps or masks to protect themselves

There are "adventure" or quieter courses.

Protected from dust and mud, it is time to attack Cerro Rico. At the entrance to the mine, miners take out carts weighing several tons, others sort the rocks. The difference in route is related to accessibility. The main galleries are quite wide, but you have to push yourself regularly to let the wagons through; as you sink a little deeper, you have to be careful and reach small cavities to slip in so as not to force a miner to stop. The "adventure" route goes to more difficult to access galleries with wooden ladders to change levels. It's quite narrow and you don't have to be claustrophobic. Between your feet in muddy water, your eye on the oxygen pipe, the dust, it can end up being stressful, but really instructive.

The meeting with the devil

The exchange with minors is limited, but is done a little thanks to the guide. There are the stories of miners who are there to brighten up the visit and of course the discovery of local beliefs. If Cerro Rico is associated with the Pasha Mama, the foster mother, this one contains at the bottom of its galleries the devil who is also venerated and is the object of offerings. It is at the bottom of a gallery that we discover it before coming out a little stunned and full of emotions, happy to also approach Bolivia from less touristic angles and off the beaten track.

A very nice experience to discover with Stéphan SZEREMETA in podcast on Bel RTL