From the airport to the city centre Bolivia
La Paz Airport. It is located in the heart of the city of El Alto at 4,060 m above sea level, it is the highest international airport in the world. It is modern since it has benefited from renovation work in 2016. You can eat, withdraw (or change) money and connect to the Internet for free, especially in the waiting rooms for domestic and international flights. A small hotel is located inside, convenient for arrivals in the middle of the night. There is also a lost and found office within the airport.
Radio cabs are available at the exit. A ride to the city center costs between 70 and 100 Bs for up to 4 people. It is possible to pay in US dollars. Only take the official radio-taxis (they all look the same, with a sign on the roof of the vehicle flanked by a phone number). Not only are they more secure because they are more closely monitored, but if there is a problem with your cab (lost and found, accident, etc.), it will be much easier to find the driver and his cab (especially with the security cameras that film the airport entrance). It takes between 25 and 45 minutes depending on the traffic to reach La Paz, which is much lower, at an altitude of about 3,700 meters.
A Cotranstur minibus with an Aeropuerto sign, at the exit of the hall, leaves for the center during the day, every 15 minutes for about 4 Bs per person. It stops on request at Plaza San Francisco (near Calle Sagarnaga), very convenient and not expensive at all.
Cable car: you will have to take a cab first (35 Bs) and then once you arrive in El Alto, take the cable car back down to the city center (also works the other way around). This solution is often the fastest and is also the best way to avoid the blockoqueos in the center of the city (no buses or cabs in the center of La Paz during certain strikes).
Santa Cruz de la Sierra Airport, Viru Viru. This is the main entry point to Bolivia. Located at an altitude of less than 400 meters, it allows you to discover the country by gradually climbing in altitude. Direct international flights from and to Madrid, Miami, Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Salta, Montevideo, São Paulo, Santiago de Chile, Lima... And of course many national flights.
Arrival by train Bolivia
The Ferroviaria Andina company has just one train, the Expreso del Sur, which runs once a week in each direction, on Mondays from Oruro to Villazon, via Uyuni and Tupiza, and on Thursdays in the Villazon > Oruro direction.
Public transport Bolivia
Intercity Buses. The main bus lines in Bolivia are among the best functioning in the country, although late departures cannot be ruled out. The buses are comfortable, fast and the drivers are relatively careful. Most trips are made at night. It is recommended to have a blanket or a sleeping bag at hand. Earplugs are essential for sleeping, as the driver often plays music, not specifically Mozart. Most of the trips in the Altiplano and the Amazon are made on roads whose condition is variable, or even impassable during the rainy season, except between some major destinations (La Paz-Oruro, La Paz-Uyuni, Sucre-Potosí, Potosí-Tupiza). But the bus is a practical and cheap means of transportation and offers without a doubt the opportunity to have a more complete idea of the realities of the country and the daily difficulties of the Bolivians. Buses leave from the "bus terminal" of each city. These bus stations are generally quite well organized. The most reliable companies are Flota Trans Copacabana, Flota Bolivia, Flota Bolívar. The disadvantage of the national companies is that they do not serve the villages. To do so, you will have to turn to the regional companies that have less modern buses. The journey is measured in hours, in this very large country where distances are not measured in kilometers.
Urban transport. The public transport system is private. Always carry 10 or 20 Bs bills and coins to get around the city. It is possible to get change at candy stalls in the streets. If you feel lost, just say the magic phrase: "Qué micro va a... ?", plus the name of your destination. You can also flag down any bus and ask the maestro for information on their routes. To be on the safe side, ask twice instead of once.
Jeepney style buses (these are the old North American buses once dedicated to school transportation) or minibuses, all numerous and cheap. Just raise your hand and the driver will stop and ask you for directions.
Minibuses. Very popular, overabundant. Their routes are fixed but not their frequency. In general, the service does not stop on weekends or holidays. You will probably be surprised by the presence of children or teenagers whose job is to announce the route of the minibuses at full speed and to collect the few bolivianos needed for the trip. They all have a number corresponding to the road they serve, as well as a sign indicating the terminus.
Micro. They are also very numerous and perhaps a little more comfortable than the minibuses. They are easier to identify because each line has a distinct color, a letter of the alphabet and the indication of the terminus.
In La Paz ,the cable car was inaugurated by President Evo Morales on May 30, 2014. This new mode of transportation is a small revolution for residents used to chaotic public transportation and monster traffic jams. Mi Teleférico had until 2016 three different lines (and as many colors for the cabins): the red (línea roja), the yellow (línea amarilla) and the green (línea verde). The blue line (línea azul), and orange line (línea naranja), opened in 2017, the white line (línea blanca) in March 2018, the sky blue line (línea celeste) in July 2018, the purple line (línea morada) in September 2018, the coffee line (línea cafe) in December 2018 and finally the silver line (línea plateada) in March 2019. From now on you can go all the way around by cable car! The goal is to bring the remote populations closer to the center of La Paz. It is necessary to know that until then it took sometimes 1h30, from the south of the city, to join the center of La Paz. The small cabins of the red line start from the bottom of the city to connect the Feria of El Alto in hardly 10 minutes; they offer a grandiose panorama on the city with the snow-covered summits of Illimani in background.
Bike, scooters & co Bolivia
Motorcycle. Travelling on a motorbike is not a particular problem if you restrict yourself to the main roads. However, you will need a lot of experience (and patience!) to cross more difficult areas such as the Altiplano or the Amazon. The roads are often dangerous and you will be completely isolated in case of a problem. It is better to call upon a competent organization (like the Moto-Andina agency which proposes accompanied tours and followed by a technical logistic team).
Scooters. Scooters and mopeds are rarely used in Bolivia, but can be useful if you stay several days in a city (Samaipata, Sucre...). Helmet, insurance, and international license are mandatory.
Bicycle. Some tours and visits by mountain bike are proposed by the agencies, the most famous is the descent of the Death Road, starting from 4 800 m of altitude of the cumbre of La Paz to go down to 1 200 m near Coroico in the Yungas.
With a driver Bolivia
There are no meters in Bolivia. There are two types of cab: collective and private. Collective cabs (trufis) have a fixed route and destination and can usually accommodate up to 5 people, who get off and on wherever they like on the same route. They usually cost between 3 and 5 Bs per person. For private cabs, the rules depend on the Bolivian city: sometimes you pay for a ride, sometimes you pay per person. The fare is usually between 10 Bs and 15 Bs, depending on the distance and the city; per person it starts at 5 Bs.
Radio cab. Efficient and inexpensive. Very profitable for several people. Possibility of negotiating daily rates if you want to go to the surrounding area or if you're in a hurry. Time between call and arrival varies from 5 to 10 minutes. Radio cabs are also much safer, especially in big cities and for international airports. In the evening, if you're going out, call a radio cab to take you back to your hotel. This is a private and safe service, with a limited number of passengers (4 maximum), and a fixed fare that's independent of the number of passengers (from 10 Bs to 15 Bs for a standard ride in the city center, and up to 25 Bs at night). Drivers are generally pleasant and talkative, so don't hesitate to strike up a conversation. They'll also be happy to provide you with information and any services you may need, as they obviously know their city well. In the evening, as a precaution, ask your hotel or restaurant to call one for you. Always confirm the rate before you start. This will avoid any unpleasant surprises. Don't call them on the street, as there is a small but real risk of kidnapping or robbery.
Trufis. These are shared cabs. They make the same journey all day long. Very practical in town or for short distances (Santa Cruz - Samaipata, for example).
By car Bolivia
Renting a car with several people can be interesting for certain excursions in the surroundings of the big cities. In general, companies offer 4x4s (80 US$ per day/100 km, for a weekly package). Very pleasant to go where you want, it is necessary to be at least 25 years old, to have an international driver's license, to have a credit card (Visa or MasterCard) which will allow you to leave a signed form as a guarantee (do not leave the deposit blank as they ask you...). Be careful! At night, park in a parking lot (about 1 US$ per night in La Paz) because, in case of theft, you will have to pay 30% of the value of the vehicle. Gasoline is subsidized and therefore not expensive at all. However, for travelers arriving by land with a non-Bolivian license plate, you will have to go through gas stations that accept foreigners. These are very rare and most of the time you will have to pay the clerk double the price before he will agree to sell you fuel. For trips to the Salar de Uyuni or the Yungas, the services of a driver are recommended (you will have to lodge and feed him). You pay according to a "time-distance" scale. Of course, the gasoline is at your expense. On the one hand, road signs and paved roads are rare in Bolivia, and on the other hand, the tracks are bad and really require experience in driving and in... mechanics. However, if your itinerary only passes through the main roads (La Paz - Cochabamba - Santa Cruz), the services of a driver may not be necessary. If you are not used to driving in the mountains, beware of the winding roads of the Andes, which can be a challenge even for the most seasoned drivers..
Accessibility Bolivia
Apart from the airports, Bolivia does not have any transport infrastructure that is accessible to people in wheelchairs and baby carriages. Buses are often crowded.
Tourist traps Bolivia
"El tío" (the uncle): a fake policeman (or a real corrupt one) approaches you and asks for your papers. He won't give them back... You should therefore refuse to give your papers (passport) unless there's a good reason. The best thing to do is to joke with the policeman, or refuse firmly and walk away. Quite common near bus stations, especially in La Paz.
Only take official cabs, as clandestine cabs (unmarked cars with cab stickers) have been the cause of many express kidnappings, especially in La Paz, Cochabamba and Santa Cruz.