From the airport to the city centre Bolivia
La Paz airport. Located in the heart of the city of El Alto at an altitude of 4,060 meters, it is the world's highest international airport. You can eat here, withdraw (or change) money and connect to the wifi free of charge, particularly in the waiting areas for domestic and international flights. A small hotel has been set up inside, ideal for arrivals in the middle of the night.
Radio cabs offer their services at the exit. A ride to the city center costs between 70 and 100 Bs for up to 4 people. It is possible to pay in US dollars. Only take official radio-taxis (they all look the same, with a sign on the roof of the vehicle flanked by a telephone number). Not only are they safer because they're more closely monitored, but if something goes wrong with your cab (lost and found, accident, etc.), it will be much easier to trace the driver and cab (especially with the security cameras filming the airport entrance). Depending on traffic, it takes between 25 and 45 minutes to reach La Paz, which is much lower down, at an altitude of around 3,600 meters.
A Cotranstur minibus with an Aeropuerto sign, leaves for the center every 15 minutes during the day for around 4 Bs per person. It stops on request at Plaza San Francisco (near Calle Sagarnaga), very convenient and not expensive at all.
Cable car : first take a cab (35 Bs), then once you've reached El Alto, take the cable car back down to the city center (also works the other way around). This is often the quickest solution, and also proves to be the best way to avoid blockoqueos in the city center (no buses or cabs in downtown La Paz during certain strikes).
Santa Cruz de la Sierra airport, Viru Viru. This is the main point of entry into Bolivia. Located at an altitude of less than 400 meters, it allows you to discover the country by gradually climbing in altitude. Direct international flights to and from Madrid, Miami, Buenos Aires, Cordoba, Salta, Montevideo, São Paulo, Santiago de Chile, Lima... And, of course, numerous domestic flights.
Arrival by train Bolivia
Ferroviaria Andina has just one train, the Expreso del Sur, which runs once a week in each direction, on Mondays from Oruro to Villazón, via Uyuni and Tupiza, and on Thursdays in the Villazón > Oruro direction (www.fca.com.bo). Departure from Oruro on Monday at 9:30pm, arrival on Tuesday in Uyuni at 6am, in Tupiza at 1pm and in Villazón at 4:30pm. Full journey: US$ 18.5, Uyuni-Tupiza: US$ 7. Traffic Villazón > Oruro every Thursday.
Public transport Bolivia
Intercity buses. The main bus routes in Bolivia are among the most efficient in the country, although late departures cannot be ruled out. Buses are comfortable and fast, and drivers are relatively cautious. Most journeys are made at night. It's a good idea to have a blanket or sleeping bag handy, as the air-conditioning is cranked up to the max. Earplugs are essential for sleeping, as the driver often plays music, and not precisely Mozart. Most trips to the Altiplano and Amazon take place on roads of variable condition, even impassable during the rainy season, except between a few major destinations (La Paz-Oruro, La Paz-Uyuni, Sucre-Potosí, Potosí-Tupiza). But the bus is a practical and inexpensive means of transport, and undoubtedly offers an opportunity to get a more complete idea of the realities of the country and the day-to-day difficulties faced by Bolivians. Buses leave from the "bus terminals" in each city. These bus stations are generally quite well organized. The most reliable companies are Flota Trans Copacabana, Flota Bolivia and Flota Bolívar. The disadvantage of the national companies is that they do not serve the villages. For this, you'll have to turn to the regional companies, which have less modern buses. In this vast country, where distances are not measured in kilometers, the journey can be measured in hours.
Urban transport. Public transport networks are private. Always carry Bs10 or Bs20 bills and coins to get around town. It's possible to make change at street sweets stalls. If you're feeling lost, just say the magic phrase: "Qué micro va a...? ?", plus the name of your destination. You can also wave at any bus and ask the maestro to tell you about their routes. To be on the safe side, ask twice rather than once.
Jeepney-style buses (these are the old North American school buses) or minibuses, all plentiful and inexpensive. Just raise your hand and the driver will stop and ask for directions.
Minibuses. Very popular, overabundant. Their routes are fixed, but not their frequency. In general, the service doesn't stop at weekends or on public holidays. You'll be amazed at the presence of children and teenagers whose job it is to announce the minibus route at top speed and collect the few bolivianos needed for the journey. Each minibus has a number corresponding to the route it is taking, as well as a sign indicating the terminus.
Micro. Also very numerous and perhaps a little more comfortable than minibuses, they are easier to identify as each line has a distinct color, a letter of the alphabet and the indication of the terminus.
In La Paz , the cable car was inaugurated by President Evo Morales on May 30, 2014. This new mode of transport is a minor revolution for residents accustomed to chaotic public transport and monstrous traffic jams. Until 2016, Mi Teleférico had three different lines (and as many colors for the cabins): the red one (línea roja), the yellow one (línea amarilla) and the green one (línea verde). The blue (línea azul) and orange (línea naranja) lines opened in 2017, the white line (línea blanca) in March 2018, the sky-blue line (línea celeste) in July 2018, the purple line (línea morada) in September 2018, the coffee line (línea café) in December 2018 and finally the silver line (línea plateada) in March 2019. Now you can take the cable car all the way round! The aim is to bring the far-flung population ever closer to the center of La Paz. Until now, it could take up to 1.5 hours from the south of the city to reach the center of La Paz. The small cabins of the red line run from the lower part of the city to the Feria d'El Alto in just 10 minutes, offering a breathtaking panorama of the city with the snow-capped peaks of the Illimani as a backdrop.
Bike, scooters & co Bolivia
Motorcycles. Travelling by motorcycle poses no particular problem if you restrict yourself to the main roads. However, you'll need a lot of experience (and patience!) to cross the more difficult areas such as the Altiplano or the Amazon. The roads are often dangerous, and you'll be completely isolated if anything goes wrong. It's best to use the services of a competent organization (such as Moto-Andina, which offers tours accompanied and monitored by a technical logistics team).
Scooters. Scooters and mopeds are not widely used in Bolivia, but can come in handy if you're staying in a town for several days (Samaipata, Sucre...). Helmet, insurance and international license required.
Bicycles. The most famous is the descent of the Death Road, from 4,800 m above sea level in the cumbre of La Paz to 1,200 m near Coroico in the Yungas.
With a driver Bolivia
There are no meters in Bolivia. There are two types of cab: collective and private. Collective cabs (trufis) have a fixed route and destination and can usually accommodate up to 5 people, who get off and on wherever they like on the same route. They usually cost between 3 and 5 Bs per person. For private cabs, the rules depend on the Bolivian city: sometimes you pay for a ride, sometimes you pay per person. The fare is usually between 10 Bs and 15 Bs, depending on the distance and the city; per person it starts at 5 Bs.
Radio cab. Efficient and inexpensive. Very profitable for several people. Possibility of negotiating daily rates if you want to go to the surrounding area or if you're in a hurry. Time between call and arrival varies from 5 to 10 minutes. Radio cabs are also much safer, especially in big cities and for international airports. In the evening, if you're going out, call a radio cab to take you back to your hotel. This is a private and safe service, with a limited number of passengers (4 maximum), and a fixed fare that's independent of the number of passengers (from 10 Bs to 15 Bs for a standard ride in the city center, and up to 25 Bs at night). Drivers are generally pleasant and talkative, so don't hesitate to strike up a conversation. They'll also be happy to provide you with information and any services you may need, as they obviously know their city well. In the evening, as a precaution, ask your hotel or restaurant to call one for you. Always confirm the rate before you start. This will avoid any unpleasant surprises. Don't call them on the street, as there is a small but real risk of kidnapping or robbery.
Trufis. These are shared cabs. They make the same journey all day long. Very practical in town or for short distances (Santa Cruz - Samaipata, for example).
By car Bolivia
Renting a car for several people can be an interesting option for certain excursions around the big cities. In general, companies offer 4x4s (US$80 per day/100 km, for a weekly package). Very pleasant to go wherever you want, you need to be at least 25 years old, have an international driving license and a credit card (Visa or MasterCard), which will allow you to leave a signed form as a guarantee (don't leave the deposit blank, as they ask you to do...).
Please note! At night, park in a parking lot (about US$1 per night in La Paz), as you will have to pay 30% of the vehicle's value in the event of theft.
Petrol is subsidized, so it's not expensive at all. However, for travellers arriving by land with a non-Bolivian license plate, you'll need to pass through gas stations that accept foreigners. These are extremely rare, and most of the time you'll have to pay the clerk double the price before he'll agree to sell you fuel.
For journeys to the Salar d'Uyuni or the Yungas, the services of a driver are recommended (you'll need to house and feed him). You pay according to a "time-distance covered" scale. Of course, fuel is at your own expense. On the one hand, road signs and asphalt roads are rare in Bolivia, and on the other, the tracks are bad and really require experience in driving and... mechanics. However, if your itinerary is limited to major routes (La Paz - Cochabamba - Santa Cruz), the services of a driver may not be necessary. If you're not used to driving in the mountains, beware of the winding roads of the Andes, which can be a trial even for the most seasoned drivers..
Accessibility Bolivia
Apart from the airports, Bolivia does not have any transport infrastructure that is accessible to people in wheelchairs and baby carriages. Buses are often crowded.
Tourist traps Bolivia
"El tío" (the uncle): a fake policeman (or a real corrupt one) approaches you and asks for your papers. He won't give them back... You should therefore refuse to give your papers (passport) unless there's a good reason. The best thing to do is to joke with the policeman, or refuse firmly and walk away. Quite common near bus stations, especially in La Paz.
Only take official cabs, as clandestine cabs (unmarked cars with cab stickers) have been the cause of several express kidnappings, especially in La Paz, Cochabamba and Santa Cruz.