"Pura vida!" It is with these two words full of benevolence that Costa Ricans greet each other, from the Pacific coast to the Caribbean coast. An expression of happiness, it literally translates to "pure life", a perfect description of the wonder that awaits visitors to the volcanoes, parks and beaches of Costa Rica. As a bridge between North and South America, the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, Costa Rica is the perfect nature and adventure destination for the whole family. Especially between August and October, during the whale-watching season on the south Pacific coast
Costa Rica, a nature lover's paradise
If Costa Rica is home to 5% of the planet's biodiversity, it is above all because nearly 30% of its surface is protected thanks to numerous national parks and natural reserves. Spots that allow you to take out your hiking shoes, to go for a walk above the canopy, to observe birds or to ride a horse. And this has been going on for a long time! Because here, sustainable development is a real way of life, adopted as much by the locals as by the tourists
And to ensure that the accommodations blend harmoniously with the splendid nature, the CST (Certificado de Sostenibilidad de Turismo) program, recognized by the United Nations World Tourism Organization, was designed to distinguish establishments that respect a sustainable management model. They are awarded "leaves" - up to 5 - which are a bit like our stars, but with a sustainable tourism version. In these lodges, in the middle of the luxuriant nature, the amateurs of ecotourism will be delighted to discover solar panels, equipments in recycled materials or menus concocted with products of the garden. The population has understood the importance of conserving its biodiversity
Road trip on the Pacific coast
To enjoy nature and whale watching between August and October, head to the Pacific coast (the Caribbean coast has the rainy season at this time). In Guanacaste, in the north of the region, adventurers can try surfing and sailing after having tried white water sports in Sarapiqui or Arenal. The calm waves of Playa Hermosa - aptly named - are perfect for families. The beach is located in the Gulf of Papagayo, known for its international brand hotels and luxury homes, and for its quick access from Liberia, Costa Rica's second international airport. On the Gold Coast, Conchal Beach, with its millions of crushed shells, is one of the most exotic beaches in the region and is perfect for snorkeling and other activities. This beach also enjoys an idyllic climate all year round. The surfers will take the direction of the famous spot of Tamarindo, a few kilometers away. For a wilder atmosphere, you should venture on the tracks of the Nicoya Peninsula. Without going as far as Mal Pais or Montezuma, you can find beautiful isolated beaches around Samara, in Barrigona, Buena Vista or Playa Carrillo.
The central and southern Pacific, where the mountains meet the sea, now has an excellent route to the Osa Peninsula, the jewel of the country, whose beaches in Corcovado National Park are frequented by macaws and all kinds of mammals. Around the Carara Park, south of Puntarenas, you will find the most beautiful hotels in Costa Rica, isolated in the hinterland, on the mountainside, with the sea as far as the eye can see. The surfers will choose the spot of Jaco known universally, that of Dominical with its so characteristic atmosphere or Pavones and its long left, after the Golfo Dulce.
Within the Manuel Antonio National Park, the beautiful beaches of Espadilla, Blanca and Puerto Escondido offer walkers direct contact with the exotic fauna. Before heading to the Osa Peninsula, families will stop at the tombolo of the Marino Ballena National Park in the hope of seeing cetaceans during a boat ride, before taking a lunch break in Ojochal, an international community whose restaurants are ranked among the best
Meet the whales!
Bahia Coronado (Bahía Drake, Isla del Caño, Marino Ballena) has the peculiarity of having warm, lukewarm and cold waters with little oxygen, arranged in a "mille-feuilles" pattern, which gives it the best conditions to shelter an important marine life, especially marine mammals. It is a privileged place where orcas, rorquals, several species of dolphins, sea turtles and, especially, six species of whales live, including the great blue whale and the humpback whale. The jorobada whales (humpback whales) of the South Pacific stay in this bay between August and October after completing the largest animal migration on the planet!
Each year they come to the warm waters of the Pacific to spawn, calve and raise their young. Their name was given to them because of the curvature of their back. They measure 12 to 15 m and weigh 30 to 40 tons on average, but can reach 18 m and 60 tons. Adult humpback whales are black or dark grey. They can be identified by the white spots on their fins and tails. These spots - the equivalent of our fingerprints - are specific to each animal. It is the photographs taken during the observations which make it possible to count them. However, it is impossible to distinguish males from females. Females give birth to a calf every two years after a gestation period of 11 to 12 months.
At birth, the calf, helped by its mother, quickly rises to the surface of the water to breathe. It is then 3 m long and already weighs one ton. Nursing lasts about a year and is accompanied by a gradual weaning, but at the age of 2 months, the calf is ready to follow its mother on her long journey to cold regions to find waters richer in food.
Humpback whales do not see well, but they have excellent hearing. Normally they are very active, but during the mating season they become even more active. Males looking for a female are particularly active. They perform a kind of seduction ballet, figures, jumps and jousts before mating. The males communicate by songs that the whales can hear more than 30 km away. Captain Cousteau nicknamed them the "Caruso of the deep". The females do not sing, but they produce the classic sounds with which whales communicate with each other.
During the heyday of whaling, the population rapidly declined from 200,000 individuals to less than 10,000, or 5% of the natural population. In 1944, the International Whaling Commission (IWC) banned whaling worldwide, allowing the population to recover. However, this is not enough and the humpback whale is now considered by scientists as an endangered species. For this reason, it is now a protected species.
Useful information
When is the best time to visit? The dry season, from December to April, is the high tourist season. The low season is the green or rainy season (on the Caribbean coast and the North), but it is usually mild on the Pacific coast. Between August and October is the whale watching season in the South Pacific and the Golfo Dulce
How to get there. Average price of a flight from Paris to San José and back: from €900 to €1,600.
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