Climate Iceland
"In Iceland, if you don't like the weather, wait five minutes and it will pass. "To say that the weather is changeable in Iceland is an understatement. You're in a country that isn't as cold as people think, but can throw up a lot of surprises. Sandstorms, snowfall in summer, violent winds..., all phenomena that can surprise by their intensity during a stay in this unique country. But is it always cold in Iceland? Of course not! Compared to other Nordic countries, winter temperatures are often mild (even if they can reach -30° in the North). However, the weather can be unpredictable, which is why you need to adapt your equipment to be prepared for all eventualities. So hang on, and let's discover together the climatic particularities of the country.
A changing climate with global warming
The climate of the island is not as cold as its name and geographical position would suggest. In recent years it has tended to change. With global warming, it is even expected that the water level will rise, that volcanic activity will increase, that new crops (e.g. wheat) will be able to be cultivated and that birds that were previously accustomed to other latitudes will arrive. In the exhibition "Wonders of Iceland" at Perlan, you can find an overview of the climatic changes that the island has experienced, and will surely experience in the years to come. But let's not get ahead of ourselves..
The southwest, west and northwest coasts of the island are bathed by one of the arms of the Gulf Stream, while the north and east coasts are influenced by the Greenland polar current, which mixes with the warm current on the east and southeast coasts. The combination of these marine currents produces a cold oceanic climate, characterized by a very small temperature range
The north-eastern regions of the country, relatively spared from wind and precipitation, are the warmest. This trend is reversed in winter when these same regions, especially inland, are the coldest. In general, the south is wetter than the north. When it rains in the North, it is sunny in the South, and vice versa. This situation, far from being immutable, has many exceptions. The climate is capricious and can be quite unpleasant. Not only can you expect a rather cool climate, but also many changes in weather conditions. The rare blue sky, sometimes adorned with clouds, is often covered with thick fog and endless rain, or even snow in the middle of summer, followed by the surprise appearance of large rainbows. The only permanent feature is the wind, which brings these sudden changes in the sky, sculpts the earth and is quite strong.
In the vast desert sand plains of the south-east, sudden sandstorms can arise, and on the high inland plateaus, snowstorms can fall, even in July. Here the weather governs everything, from the brief bloom to the walk of the drenched Icelander in sudden rain. Don't underestimate the car rental companies' warnings about sandstorms on the south coast in summer, as the damage can run into thousands of euros even with insurance. If a warning occurs, there is only one solution: don't drive and change your route.
The Ball of Seasons in Iceland
In Iceland, the seasons are very disproportionately distributed throughout the year.
Winter in Iceland is not as harsh as in similar latitudes, since the average temperature in January is close to 0°C.
The Icelandic sky is particularly changeable and the clouds which cross it sometimes take forms unknown to us. The permanent humidity but also the wind contribute to create a feeling of cold, even if the thermometer does not predict it. Icelanders often say that there are several climates in one day. Because of the mountainous terrain, the weather can be very variable from one place to another. In March and April, the snow also becomes more compact and allows many skiers to indulge their passion. The opening of winter sports resorts depends greatly on the condition of the slopes and the snow cover.
On sunny days , temperatures are generally cool, but pleasant. However, in recent years, records have been broken for the warmest temperatures (26.2°C in Reykjavík on June 30, 2008, and 23.2°C in July 2018), which is evidence of a clear warming trend. Spring begins in May, which corresponds to the melting of ice in most mountains, the first growth of plant species, but also the arrival of many migratory birds that announce the next season. Summer is from the beginning of June to the end of August and represents the period when Iceland is in full swing. In June, coastal life reaches its peak, with the arrival of a multitude of seabirds. The ice continues to melt, revealing more of the natural treasures that were previously covered in snow.
September and October are autumn, an ideal time to visit Iceland without the crowds of the high season. It is also a wet season, with days that are sometimes rainy or even snowy. Day after day, the weather gets colder and winter is already announced by the northern lights that illuminate the sky. Be careful, in Iceland, it can snow in the middle of July! It is essential to always have something to face the cold and the wind when you come to Iceland, whatever the season.
From midnight sun to near polar night
In June and early July, there is no night, or rather the orange light of the "midnight sun" that sets and rises just above the horizon. On the north coast, especially in Húsavík, or on the island of Grímsey, you can see the sun pretending to set, then actually bouncing off the horizon and up into the sky. Because of the near absence of night, birds are constantly chirping. This, combined with the lack of shutters, sometimes makes for sleepless nights.
For the traveller, the midnight sun can be destabilising. The day is no longer punctuated by the sunset, you travel as long as you feel like it, you go to bed when you feel like it. It's another way of living the daily life, which may or may not please you.
In July , the hours of darkness increase, the golden moon appears in the still short night. After mid-August, the night reappears and the morning frosts return.
Finally, the "dark" period begins in mid-November and ends at the end of January. The sun only appears for a few hours during the day and then only very weakly. We are not in a situation of "polar night" as in Finland or Lapland, because the sun rises, but very little. Think of taking a pedestrian reflector with you to be more visible to motorists.