Three geographical sets
French Guiana is divided into three geographical zones.
The Terres hautes (highlands) are home to the equatorial forest, which covers 94% of the territory. The lateritic soil is poor and unsuitable for agriculture. To partially solve this problem, farmers enrich the soil by burning certain plants, and use the residues to cultivate small plots using a system known as "abattis".
The Terres basses, concentrated on the coastal fringe, account for around 6% of the territory. Depending on altitude, they include swamps, savannahs and forest massifs. The use of the term mountain is often exaggerated, as only a few hills stand out in the landscape.
Mangrove sw amps are the third most important geographical feature in French Guiana. The territory is subject to the effects of a powerful marine current, with rivers depositing colossal quantities of alluvium at their mouths. As a result, the ocean is cloudy for several kilometers from the coast, a natural feature which has the effect of slowing down the development of seaside activities, even though it is perfectly possible to enjoy a swim in French Guiana. Indeed, even if the water is nothing like the "turquoise blue paradise" found in other French overseas departments, there are few traces of pollution. Where the coastline is silted up, mangrove trees grow rapidly, giving rise to mangrove swamps that can be several kilometers wide, and are growing in size all the time.
The magic of rivers
French Guiana's river system is both rich and unique. From recreational areas here, to unique communication routes and adventurous sites there, rivers are an integral part of everyday life in French Guiana. This is especially true for the inland populations who live along the Maroni and Oyapock rivers. There are many river-related tourist activities. Certain rivers, known as "creeks", are the preferred spots for weekend tourism: one of the most popular activities is to canoe up or down a river to spend the night in a secluded spot. Along the riverbanks, you'll often see small wooden accommodation structures known as "carbets".
The rivers - punctuated by numerous rapids known as "jumps", particularly swift during the dry season - are often the only means of access to certain communities, making canoes (a type of dugout canoe) the most suitable craft for navigating the rivers. There are dozens of rivers and creeks criss-crossing this Amazonian territory. From northwest to southeast, you'll find the following rivers:
The Maroni. This is Guyana's king river, marking the Guyanese-Surinamese border. Both the longest and the most populated, its 520 km course offers superb scenery and an opportunity to meet the inhabitants of this part of the territory (mostly Bushinengé and Amerindian).
The Iracoubo. Less important than the others, it has not yet acquired its letters of nobility. Yet it's a quiet little river winding through the forest, where you can catch fish such as the black piranha, go on expeditions to the springs and paddle down.
The Sinnamary. Its course offers some splendid places to stay: from degrad Petit-Saut (Petit-Saut dam), you can discover Saut Takari-Tanté (3.5 hours by canoe), Saut Lucifer (2.5 hours) and the new Tigre station (1.5 hours by canoe). The Sinnamary estuary, like the Iracoubo estuary, is an ideal place to observe the flight of red ibises at dawn or dusk.
The Approuague. Sometimes wild, sometimes tamed, this river has its fans. Strongly marked by the gold rush of the last century, the Approuague's main village is Régina. Downstream are the remains of the ancient site of Guisanbourg, lost in the heart of equatorial vegetation, with its abandoned sugar mill, polders and old steam engines. Further upstream, the river boasts some of the most beautiful sites in French Guiana, including Saut Athanase, Saut Mathias, Saut Grand-Machicou and Grand-Canori, all of which are ideal places to stay.
The Mana. This is the wildest of Guyana's rivers, with 99 jumps along its 430 km course. Unfortunately, today as in the past, it is once again considered one of the main gold-mining areas: colonized by clandestine gold miners, the river is heavily polluted. At the cost of a real expedition, it is possible to travel along it to Saül, the heart of French Guiana, but for the time being the area is uncertain, and it is strongly advised to check with the professionals before going there. It is also possible to get there by quad bike.
Kourou. Its estuary is the port of the space city. Due to the high level of activity linked directly or indirectly to the space industry, Kourou is home to numerous company and private carbets.
The Cayenne River. Just a few kilometers from the ocean, several major rivers come together to form a gigantic estuary. Over 2 km wide, the Rivière de Cayenne is home to the fishing port of Le Larivot and forms the western boundary of the island of Cayenne. Since 1977, an impressive structure has replaced the ferry that once crossed the estuary.
Le Mahury. This forms the eastern boundary of the island of Cayenne and houses the commercial port of Dégrad-des-Cannes. To enable merchant ships from mainland France to dock, a narrow channel is continually dredged. The river mouth is a birdwatching site for red ibises.
The Oyapock. Forming the border with Brazil and a zone of cultural and economic exchange par excellence, this river is populated by garimpeiros, Brazilian gold miners living on barges, and by Amerindian populations, mainly Wayapi and Emerillon. Upstream, the village of Camopi marks the boundary of a territory with regulated access that forms a kind of Amerindian sanctuary.
