Flore
Coastal flora. On the coast, flora adapts to the movement of the coast's advance and retreat. There are three main landscape categories. The mangrove is the form of vegetation closest to the shore. The characteristic species here is the red or white mangrove. Extremely dense, mangroves often impede access to certain shorelines. Numerous species of animal, especially mosquitoes, find ideal living and breeding conditions here. The area is therefore both difficult to access and particularly unhealthy. As a result, tourist interest is limited, although some sites are ideal for observing rare animal species, such as the red ibis in the Sinnamary region. Sub-littoral marshes are found mainly to the east of Cayenne, at the foot of the Kaw mountain, notably in the Kaw-Roura Marshes Nature Reserve. Vegetation here is scattered, consisting of shrubs and semi-aquatic plants. In places, trees emerge from the marshes to form pinotieres, veritable swamp forests. These marshes are also difficult to access. What's more, they constitute a natural environment that is highly sensitive to any trace of pollution. In fact, the Kaw region is the subject of numerous verbal confrontations between environmentalists and advocates of more pronounced tourist development. The site is home to some spectacular and endangered species, such as the black caiman.
Behind the mangroves lies an ancient coastal plain, either dry or with a less marked and more localized marshy character. This zone is located mainly along the RN 1, between Cayenne and Iracoubo. It is the domain of the savannah. Recently, picnic and rest areas have been set up along the roads. But they are still few and far between. Much of it is either occupied by the space center's infrastructure or used for agricultural production.
Guiana's forests. The primary forest is by far the dominant form of vegetation in the department. Its omnipresence strikes visitors as soon as they arrive by plane. To date, the ONF's inventory has identified some 5,500 plant species. It is extremely difficult to distinguish these species from one another, such is the density and uniformity of the environment. In addition to precious woods, the primary forest is home to numerous flowering epiphytic plants. The best known are orchids and aroids (anthuriums and philodendrons). The forest canopy is relatively low, given the poor mineral content of the soil. The primary forest's tourist appeal is manifold. Discovery, adventure and, in some cases, limited fishing require considerable logistics and precise knowledge. The forest is unforgiving of carelessness. However, a few sites on the edge of the trails are accessible without assistance. Tourism in Guyana's forests poses a number of ecological and practical problems. The establishment of a few light accommodation infrastructures, such as carbets and lodges, designed to offer visitors original, comfortable accommodation close to nature, raises the problem of protecting the environment and neighbouring populations. The interest of the forest lies in the opportunity to observe some particularly rare endemic animal species and to experience some extraordinary sensations.
Fauna
French Guiana is home to mammals that seem to have come straight from prehistory without having undergone any major mutations. This is particularly true of armadillos and marsupials. While armadillos are hunted down for their meat, marsupials are particularly sought-after by smugglers, who meet the demand of certain European zoological reserves. Big cats such as the puma, ocelot and jaguar are the most endangered species because of the beauty of their fur. The slow, graceful movement of the lazy sheep(aï) is one of the most moving sights to be seen in French Guiana. Not very wild, these animals are apparently easily tamed, but very few survive in captivity. Likewise, observing the anteater, also known as the great anteater because of its fondness for ants, is quite unique, but visitors must be extremely patient and take infinite precautions to be lucky enough to approach it in its natural habitat. It is probably this wild instinct that has prevented the species from disappearing completely to this day.
French Guiana is also home to a variety of game species. These include the tapir, South America's largest land mammal. It can measure 2 m in length and stand 1.20 m high at the withers. Its weight can reach 250 kg. Females give birth to a single calf every 18 months. The cabiaï is the world's largest rodent: this water pig (in Creole) can reach 1.20 m in length and weigh 60 kg. When swimming, it can be distinguished from the otter by its square snout. Game is also very popular in Guiana's cuisine, especially the collared peccary (pakira) and the white-lipped peccary (cochon bois).
Birds. French Guiana boasts an ornithological reserve of over 700 species, 10% of which are migratory. Once again, uncontrolled hunting is responsible for the rarefaction of some of these species. The most significant example is the red ibis, whose population has been divided by ten in less than fifteen years. Guiana's birdlife can be observed in the mangrove swamps, marshes and forests. The latter are the preferred breeding grounds for many species: bald-headed hawk, marsh kite, osprey, yellow-headed caracara, green jacamar, three species of kingfisher, geocuckoo, ani, black jacana, little green heron, anhinga (snakebird), red or green ibis, musk duck... On forest walks, you'll often hear the païpayo, or sentinel bird, with its distinctive song. In the late morning, birds of prey take advantage of the rising winds to fly over their territory: the pape vulture, the harpy eagle, the swallow-tailed kite and the macaws, which take their name from their hoarse, squeaky call, will show you their bright colors. If you come across a bird with a disheveled hoopoe on its head, slightly resembling a turkey, it's the crested hoatzin, called sassa in Creole. But the must-see is the toucan or grosbeak, with its discordant cries; it's the emblematic bird of French Guiana. Many bird species are now protected by law.
Reptiles. Their power and beauty will provoke admiration and astonishment in some, fear or even repulsion in others. The one that occupies an important place in Guyanese beliefs is the anaconda. The largest snake in the world, it can measure up to 9 m and weigh 200 kg. Non-venomous, this constrictor snake is found in swamps and flooded savannahs. But don't be fooled into thinking that you'll come across snakes every day and every 10m. While diversity is considerable (95 species), density is low. An encounter with snakes would be a real misfortune, and there are very few cases of bites. Among the venomous species, the best-known are the large-sided grackle, the small-sided grackle, the savannah rattlesnake and the true coral. But don't panic! When walking in the forest, you simply have to be vigilant. French Guiana is also home to the world's most colorful frogs, the dendrobates. Their colors warn predators of the danger of eating them. The poisonous substance secreted by their skin is the source of certain medicines. Among the reptiles, let's mention the magnificent turtles: the matamata turtle, found mainly in the Kaw marshes, the caretta turtle, easily seen on the Isles of Salut, for example, and above all the leatherback turtle, which arouses the visitor's enthusiasm. The sight of these sea monsters (weighing between 400 and 700 kg and measuring 1.80 m in length), which come to lay their eggs on the beaches after a titanic effort, is both awe-inspiring and moving. The best place to watch them laying their eggs is on Hattes beach (Awala-Yalimapo commune), in north-western French Guiana, near Mana, and also along the beaches of Montjoly. More than half of the world's nesting female turtles come to lay their eggs on Guiana's beaches. As a result, many people come to observe sea turtles at dusk on Cayenne Island and on the world-renowned Awala beach. Only turn on your lights when the turtles are laying their eggs, and keep a reasonable distance behind them. To protect the turtles, and above all to study their behavior, the WWF has set up a sea turtle study and protection center here for several years. The presence of these scientists not only satisfies the curiosity of visitors, but also helps to protect turtle reproduction in a place that is virtually unique in the world. Similarly, the observation of crocodilians in their natural environment arouses curiosity. Of the four species of caiman found in French Guiana, the black caiman is the most interesting. This species has almost disappeared, and the Kaw marshes remain one of its last refuges. It is a protected species. Its flesh is highly prized in Guianese cuisine. Consequently, despite being protected, it is constantly hunted down by poachers. The most interesting sight of these crocodilians is at night, when you can see the red glow of their eyes just emerging from the water, a sign of their presence. Most of Cayenne's tour operators offer this excursion, which is one of the department's most classic.
Fish. French Guiana is a paradise for fish lovers. Whether in the sea, rivers or estuaries, the aquatic fauna is as rich as it is varied. As you travel through French Guiana, you'll no doubt notice the presence of numerous fishermen on the coastal bridges. Indeed, the estuaries, with their brackish waters, are home to a colossal quantity of particularly tasty salmon fish. Machoirans, acoupas or cocos, after undergoing special preparation, will delight gourmets. The ocean is also home to a large number of species, some of which can be enormous. In the area around the Isles du Salut, for example, you'll encounter very large groupers, tarpons(palika in Creole) and even sharks, making this region a sport fishing paradise. More frequently, you'll see fishermen catching magnificent rays right on the beach. Last but not least, Guiana's coastal marshes are home to a very surprising fish: the atipa. This strange-looking fish, covered with two rows of bony plates on each side of its body, can grow up to 19 cm and looks like a prehistoric survivor. Far from the coast, the river is the territory of the piraï. Called the scissor fish in French Guiana, it is better known by its Brazilian name, piranha. There are ten or so species, but all have the distinctive feature of being equipped with incisive and effective teeth. Reaching up to 30 cm in length, this fish is far less aggressive than is often claimed, and swimmers can rest assured that there have been no accidents, except when handled by fishermen. The predator of the creeks is the aïmara, which sometimes reaches 1 m in length and weighs 25 kg. A large carnivore, it is appreciated by both river dwellers and sport fishermen. Coumarous, pacous, acoupas de rivière and other large siluriformes are also highly sought-after. A beauty of nature, the electric eel, black with a reddish throat, which you can spot in the sandy waters of certain creeks, can measure 2 m and, as its name suggests, is capable of emitting currents of 500 to 750 volts at 2 amps. Stay away!
Insects and butterflies. Insects are extremely numerous and varied in French Guiana. The most popular butterfly is the blue morpho. Found from Mexico to Argentina, the morpho genus comprises some 30 species, nine of which are found in French Guiana: the blue barred, black and blue (three species), the metallic blue, entirely blue (four species), and the orange-brown gliders (two species). Other, rarer species are particularly appreciated by entomologists, who find in French Guiana the means to satisfy their passion. Long-horned beetles, in all their splendid finery, are another delight. Compared with 235 species in mainland France, French Guiana boasts almost 1,500. Hairy and with an unenviable reputation, the mygale is in fact little to be feared by humans, as its venom presents no real danger. Ants, on the other hand, whether red or legionary, frequently cause inconvenience to visitors with their bites. It is important to take proper shelter, especially when staying in a carbet for nights in the forest.
