Early Christian mosaics
Not much remains of North Macedonia's oldest churches, founded from the 3rd century onwards. They were either rebuilt over the centuries or abandoned. As a result, archaeologists have discovered the foundations of dozens of early Christian basilicas across the country. The most remarkable of these is the large archaeological site of Stobi, in Gradsko, Povardaria. It preserves the remains of a 4th-century Byzantine baptistery adorned with sumptuous mosaics. The mosaics feature peacocks, which have become one of the country's symbols. Also worth mentioning is the small and recent monastery of the Quinze-Martyrs-de-Tiberiopolis (1974), in Strumica, Eastern Macedonia. Within its walls are the ruins of a 4th-century basilica. Here, archaeologists have unearthed not only mosaics and tombs, but also the oldest fragment of fresco in the country.
Exceptional frescoes
Despite wars, Islamic domination by the Ottomans and earthquakes, five medieval churches have preserved exceptional frescoes from the 12th and 13th centuries. The oldest are to be found in theChurch of Saint Panteleimon in Nerezi, near Skopje. They were painted in 1164 and rediscovered in 1923 (see below). St. Sophia's Cathedral in Ohrid (1037) is the country's largest medieval building and the seat of the Macedonian Orthodox Church. Despite its turbulent history (it was converted into a mosque), it houses some of the best-preserved 11th-century frescoes in the world. The frescoes are of unparalleled historical significance, bearing witness to the schism between Catholics and Orthodox in 1054. The municipality of Prilep, in Pelagonia, is home to the frescoes of theChurch of St. Nicholas of Manastir, painted in 1271, and those of theChurch of St. Nicholas of Varoš, painted between the 12th and 13th centuries. Finally, the most beautiful early frescoes are undoubtedly those in theChurch of St. George in Kurbinovo, on the eastern shore of Lake Prespa. Painted in 1191, they represent an extreme culmination of the great artistic movement of the Byzantine Comnenes dynasty, whose influence can be seen as far afield as the West.
Two great artists
The Greek painters Michalis Astrapas and Eftychios are responsible for some of the finest medieval frescoes in the Balkans. Between the late 13th and early 14th centuries, these two brothers worked throughout the vast Serbian kingdom. Their works can be admired in several Unesco World Heritage-listed churches in Serbia, Kosovo, Greece and Northern Macedonia. Their oldest masterpiece is the decoration of theChurch of the Mother of God-Perivleptos in Ohrid. Here, for the first time in 1295, the two painters broke away from the rigid maniera graeca (classical Byzantine style) and did much more than describe biblical episodes. Through almost unprecedented scenes of tenderness, they conveyed emotions. With graphic innovations such as the use of perspective, realistic expressions and floating figures, they foreshadowed the revival of European painting. Ten years later, most of their innovations were to be found in the frescoes of the Scrovegni chapel in Padua, Italy, the first masterpiece by Giotto, the precursor of the Italian Renaissance. Works by Michalis Astrapas and Eftychios can also be seen in the beautiful Church of St. George in Staro Nagoričane, in the Kumanovo region, painted between 1313 and 1318, and in the Monastery of St. Nicetas in Banjane, in the small Skopska Crna Gora massif near Skopje, where the two artists worked in 1324.
Masterpieces rediscovered
Restoration work carried out in the 20th century has led to the rediscovery of ancient frescoes in churches throughout the country. A case in point is St. Sophia's Cathedral in Ohrid, where the 11th-century frescoes were revealed in 1949 beneath the plaster applied when the building was converted into a mosque. The Marko monastery in Markova Sušica, in the Skopje region, retains its 14th-century painted decor, including portraits of the region's last Christian rulers, rediscovered in 1963: those of Serbian prince Marko Kraljević and his father Vukašin Mrnjavčević. The emotion is even more intense at theSaint-Panteleimon church in Nerezi, on the slopes of Mount Vodno, near Skopje. Here, most of the 12th-century frescoes were uncovered during work in 1923. They constitute an extremely rare testimony to Byzantine art under the Comnenes dynasty.
Miracles and devotion
From miraculous springs to unexplained healings, the churches of North Macedonia still possess a touch of mystery. At the prestigious St. Naum Monastery (c. 900), on the eastern shore of Lake Ohrid, pilgrims from all over the world perform - literally - a strange ritual: place your ear on the tomb of St. Naum of Ohrid to... hear the heartbeat of the monastery's founder. The remains of his alter ego, St. Clement of Ohrid, are also the object of deep devotion in the new church of Saints-Clement-and-Panteleimon (2002) in Ohrid. The miracles attributed to the two evangelizers of the Slavs have thus been perpetuated for over a thousand years. Conversely, in the center of Skopje, the 18th-centuryChurch of Saint Demetrios attracts believers because of a very recent "miracle": on April 8, 2012, the halos of the saints painted on the walls began to glow in an unusual way. This phenomenon was no doubt due to the humidity in the church during the Orthodox Easter celebrations.
Iconostases of the Mijaks
In an Orthodox church, the iconostasis is the "wall of icons" that marks the separation between the sanctuary reserved for the communing clergy and the faithful. Originally built in stone or marble, this wall was gradually replaced by a wooden structure. From the 18th century onwards, Mijak craftsmen from the Debar region became highly sought-after for their iconostasis carving skills. The most remarkable works were created in the 19th century by Petar Filipovski and his assistants Makarie Frčkovski and Marko Filipovski, Petar's brother. Their masterpieces can be seen at the St. John Bigorski Monastery in Rotuša, in the Mavrovo National Park. They worked here from 1829 to 1835, sculpting no fewer than 700 animal and plant motifs, monsters and men on the immense wooden wall. Particularly noteworthy is the representation of the dancer Salome (who had the head of St. John the Baptist cut off), dressed here in traditional Mijak costume, or the faces of Petar Filipovski and his assistants. The three men also worked from 1811 to 1814 at Lesnovo monastery, near Kratovo, and around 1824 atSt. Saviour's church in Skopje.
In the heart of nature
The hermits, monks and anchorites of the Middle Ages appreciated solitude... but also beautiful landscapes. This is why most of the country's monasteries are located in enchanting settings, far from the cities. Near Prilep, the 13th-century monastery of Treskavec is completely isolated, at 1,280 m altitude. Founded by the Serbian king Milutin, it boasts fine frescoes and makes a panoramic stopover on a hike over the Pelagonian plain. In the same region, near Makedonski Brod, the 14th-century monastery of Zrze is surrounded by cliffs and an oak forest at an altitude of almost 1,000 m. It boasts remarkable frescoes. It boasts remarkable frescoes painted by the great Albanian master Onufri in 1535. Closer to "civilization", the Matka Canyon on the outskirts of Skopje has become a tourist mecca. But in the Middle Ages, it was very difficult to access. As a result, several religious buildings have sprung up on the canyon's rim, most notably the small monastery of Šiševo monastery (14th century), which can be reached on foot after crossing Lake Matka by boat. While the whole journey here takes 30 minutes, it takes 1h30 by boat to admire the frescoes at the polog monastery (14th century), completely cut off from the world by the artificial Tikveš lake near Kavadarci.
Shopping
A visit to the monasteries is also an opportunity to do some shopping. The monks produce some of the best rakija in the country. In addition to brandy, some monasteries also sell honey, wine and cheese. The nuns of the Matka monastery, at the entrance to the Matka canyon, are renowned for their textile workshop: liturgical vestments for the clergy of the Macedonian Orthodox Church, embroidered icons, as well as handbags with folk or modern motifs. While icons can be found just about everywhere, the most beautiful are those of the nuns of the small monastery of Vodoča, near Strumica. Gold-leafed and hand-painted, they retail from €650 each.
Caves and philosophers
To complete this overview of churches in North Macedonia, we must of course mention the rock churches of Lake Ohrid. There are many of them. But the ones with the finest frescoes are in the same village, near Struga: thechurch of St. Athanasius in Kališta, painted around 1360, and that of the Kališta monastery, whose decoration dates back to the end of the 14th century. In a very different genre, we should also mention the astonishing frescoes at Kučevište monastery, in Skopska Crna Gora, near Skopje. Here, 16th- and 17th-century painters depicted, among others, Nebuchadnezzar and Alexander the Great, Turks wearing fez, the Pythia of Delphi and the Greek philosophers Socrates, Plato and Aristotle.
What about mosques?
Far be it from us to disparage Islamic art, which is very present in the country. But it has to be said that the most beautiful religious buildings inherited from the Ottomans are not to be found in Northern Macedonia, or in the Balkans in general. To see for yourself, you need to go to Istanbul, Turkey. This is where the largest, most elegant and richly decorated mosques in the entire former Empire were built. Only small mosques were built in the European territories of the Ottomans. However, we recommend a visit to the stunning Colorful Mosque in Tetovo, the old Sinan-Tatar-Bey Mosque in Kumanovo and the Mustafa-Pacha and Sultan-Murat Mosques in Skopje. The capital also boasts some fine baths and caravanserais built during the Ottoman period. Tetovo boasts one of the most important Sufi shrines in the Balkans, the tekké Arabati-Baba.
