A fragile biodiversity
Jordan's biodiversity is suffering from a worrying impoverishment of multifactorial origin. For the past hundred years, fauna and flora have been becoming scarcer in a region already weakened by an arid climate and topography. Intensive hunting has caused the disappearance of many species, as have deforestation, the expansion of agriculture in the Jordan Valley and climate change. Jordan is divided into three distinct ecosystems: the Transjordanian Plateau, which extends from the Syrian border to the Dana Valley; the Jordan Valley, which extends into the country from the Israeli-Syrian crossroads to the Dead Sea; and the desert. A fourth ecosystem can be added with the underwater world of the Red Sea. In total, 2,545 species have been recorded in Jordan, 436 species of birds, 82 species of mammals and 99 species of reptiles. The protection of the fauna and flora is ensured by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature (RSCN). This association was born from the observation of an important decline of the fauna by hunters in 1966. Since then, the association has been structured, has grown and now watches over the future of protected natural areas. In particular, it has received a mandate from the Ministry of Agriculture to ensure the application of the law on the preservation of wildlife. Conscious of the need to inform and convince, the RSCN builds links with local communities and acts for an eco-responsible tourism in the surroundings of the natural reserves it manages. It sets up economic development projects such as local handicraft workshops, eco-oriented camps or restaurants, sustainable activities (hiking, canyoning, cycling...) within the nature reserves.
The Jordanian fauna
The Arabian oryx is the national animal of Jordan. This antelope of the bovid family is easily recognizable by its long, twisted horns that form a V shape above its head. The species became extinct in the 1930s due to intensive hunting. It was reintroduced to Jordan in 1978 from an American zoo. A major conservation program increased the number of heads from 11 to over 200 and the species was downlisted from endangered to vulnerable in the CITES listing. Other species have benefited from the same program such as the Somali ostrich or the Persian evening primrose, a species of wild donkey. The carnivorous fauna still present in the wild includes the striped hyena, the caracal, a feline recognizable by the hairy brushes that cover its pointed ears, the Arabian wolf, the Arabian red fox, the Egyptian mongoose also known as the pharaoh's rat, the ratel, the Caucasian badger or the European otter. Wild boar, European hare, Indian porcupine, rock damsel resembling a marmot or various species of hedgehogs have also been recorded. Nevertheless, it is difficult, if not rare, to see wild animals in Jordan, even when visiting the nature reserves. Wildlife enthusiasts looking for a chance encounter with the Arabian Oryx or other animals will have to be patient. The animals you will see along the roads or in the mountains are all domesticated and are mostly camels, goats and sheep.
Much easier to see, birds can be a theme of your stay, for the amateurs. Jordan is a migration destination for many birds coming from Europe or Asia Minor or Russia. The best time to observe them is during winter. Until recently, the Azraq marshes were among the most popular destinations. But the Jordanian government decided to partially drain them, removing a natural refuge for many migratory species. Today, only a few ducks and pelicans continue to splash around in the remaining pools. The Dana Biosphere remains the destination of choice for learning about Jordan's birdlife. You can also see some interesting species while walking in Petra, Wadi Rum or Mujib Reserve. Local or resident species include the Dead Sea sparrow, the Palestinian sunbird, the white ass, the Smyrna kingfisher, the magpie kingfisher, the swift, the forest wren... Birds of prey are easy to spot especially in the Mujib reserve or Wadi Rum. Among the resident species in Jordan, we can mention Bonelli's eagle, the kestrel, the short-toed eagle and the ferocious buzzard. Among the migratory species, Jordan hosts rare specimens of Siberian crane, petrel, white-headed duck, Finsch's traquet, music thrush, different subspecies of grebes and greylag goose.
The desert is home to some unappealing species such as the horned viper or the sand viper. Their bite is not lethal and fortunately the chances of falling on them are rare, just like for the scorpion. Some migratory species are also typical of the Aqaba region such as the pink flamingo, the white pelican or the grey pelican.
The Jordanian flora
With the exception of the verdant Jordan Valley, most of Jordan is desert or semi-desert. The vegetation has difficulty in overcoming the aridity of the desolate regs. You have to come in the spring to see the mountains covered with flowering groves. The national flower is the black iris, which is actually a dark purple. It symbolizes growth, change and renewal and grows throughout the country, but especially between Madaba and Kerak. Only 1% of Jordan's territory is covered by forests. These are located in the northwestern part of the Transjordanian plateau, between Amman and the Syrian border. They are mainly composed of Aleppo pines, Mediterranean cypresses, deciduous and evergreen oaks and Phoenician juniper. There are also wild olive trees that are several hundred years old, although most of them are cultivated. The olives are harvested at the end of October, by hand. They are pressed in the villages, then the oil is collected to be packaged and sold. Trees being rare in the country, they arouse the covetousness of the most well-to-do people. They do not hesitate to spend fortunes to tear out multi-century-old trees from their natural environment and replant them on their property. As you go down south, the flora becomes poorer. A few stunted bushes and lichens try to make inroads into the rocky soils, which are soon grazed by goats and sheep. The wadis are generally greener, with water flowing naturally into their depths. It is here that tamarisk, acacia or mugwort grow, which the locals use as an infusion and which you will not fail to taste in Petra or in Wadi Rum under the name of " sage tea ". The Jordan Valley has become a vast agricultural strip that provides most of the country's fruits and vegetables. The orchards are home to banana trees, date palms, pistachio trees, orange and lemon trees and pomegranate trees in abundance. The market gardening areas allow tomatoes, cucumbers and eggplants to be grown all year round. Surplus crops are exported to neighboring Saudi Arabia.
The treasures of the Red Sea
The Gulf of Aqaba, at the northeastern tip of the Red Sea, is renowned for its extremely beautiful seabed, the diversity of its pelagic resources and the great purity of its waters. It attracts many divers attracted by its garnet blue waters. A census conducted in 2018 listed 1,207 different species in the Red Sea, 797 of which are present in the Gulf of Aqaba. The most sought-after fish are the sailfish, the fastest in the world, and the whale shark, the largest in the world, but perfectly harmless. The Gulf is home to other species of sharks, which generally remain in the depths. These include the tiger shark, thresher shark, oceanic shark, mako shark and reef shark. Most of these sharks are harmless and attacks are rare. They are most often the result of misinterpretation of behavior by inexperienced divers. The gulf is also full of smaller and more colorful fish such as the yellow mouth moray eel, the imposing napoleon wrasse, of which only the males are blue, the barracuda, the clown fish and the frog fish. The gulf also has venomous species such as lionfish, stonefish and several varieties of scorpionfish, which are particularly agile at camouflaging themselves in their environment. A large variety of brightly colored nudibranchs is a delight for macro enthusiasts. We can mention the Kunié dory, the reddish Spanish dancer, or the pyjama nudibranch. Two species of turtles frequent the reefs, the hawksbill turtle and the green turtle. Dolphins are regularly seen in the open sea, including the bottlenose dolphin or the Risso's dolphin. Finally, beautiful rays lurk in the sand, preferably in shallow waters. Be careful where you step so as not to be stung by a blue or black spotted stingray, an eagle ray or a panther torpedo.
Unlike many other places on the planet, the coral reef in the Gulf of Aqaba seems to be resisting to the warming waters and a strong diffusion of carbon dioxide. Scientists are investigating the issue to determine the reasons for this resilience. The Azrac Project, led by a team of Swiss and Israeli researchers, is collecting specific species to study their resistance over time. The hypothesis put forward to explain this small ecological miracle is that the coral was formed in the south of the Red Sea, before moving northwards and spreading over 13 kilometers around Aqaba. Corals of all shapes and colors line the drop offs providing hiding places and food for fish. The Gulf of Aqaba has become one of the most popular diving spots in the world and the cities of Aqaba in Jordan and Sharm-el-Sheikh in Egypt derive most of their income from this tourist attraction. The intense frequentation of the reef, the not always delicate divers and the pollution generated by this business (boats, plastics...) are likely to threaten the fragile ecosystem. A campaign to register the Gulf of Aqaba as a UNESCO World Heritage Site is underway to ensure the long-term survival of the reef.
