What to eat Jordan? culinary specialties and gastronomy

Traditional restaurants generally open continuously from midday to 10:30-11pm. Canteens and falafel or shawarma vendors have longer opening hours, opening in the morning between 7 and 9 a.m. and closing late, often after midnight. This means you'll have no trouble stocking up in tourist towns. In the villages, opening hours are more restricted when there is a restaurant.

Food is not expensive in Jordan. You can eat a hearty oriental sandwich (falafel, shawarma, sheesh tawouk...) for less than 2 DJ. Expect to pay between 2 and 5 DJ for a meal in a canteen, and between 8 and 15 DJ in a restaurant. The bill will never exceed 25 DJ, unless you eat like 4.

The bill is presented to you all taxes and service included. On the other hand, the tipping culture is strong in the country, and it's customary to leave something for your waiter (between 0.50 and 5 DJ depending on the restaurant's standing).

Traditionally, Jordanians eat with their right hand. But in restaurants, they use cutlery. On the other hand, if you are invited to share a mansaf, the national dish, you will be well received if you use your hand.

If you try your hand at the local fashion, make sure you never use your left hand to dip into the communal dish. It is reserved for uses considered impure, such as washing.

Jordan cherishes and pampers children. They are welcome everywhere, especially in restaurants. They have every right, including the right to run around and push waiters. You'll never see anyone tell them off.

Jordanians are heavy smokers. Women generally smoke behind the closed door of their homes. Men, on the other hand, smoke absolutely everywhere, at the wheel, in restaurants, on the street and, best of all, hookah in the café, an institutional practice. Many restaurants offer these water pipes, which are smoked while sharing mezzés, even in enclosed spaces. Non-smoking restaurants are generally family-run establishments with a "no smoking" sign.

Jordan is a very safe country, and there are no particular scams. In touristy towns like Madaba or Wadi Musa, you may be stopped in the street by a tout trying to lure you into his or her restaurant. It's up to you to decide whether or not you're tempted.

Small bouibouis selling shawarmas or falafels to take away generally have wide opening hours, depending somewhat on the size of the town. Falafels and small canteens open early in the morning, between 6 and 7 a.m., to serve breakfast. Shawarma vendors are open late at night, until midnight or 1am, to serve night owls. Establishments serving alcohol (bars or cafés) are open until 11pm on weekdays and midnight on weekends (Thursday and Friday evenings in Jordan).

You can eat on the run for next to nothing. A falafel sandwich should never cost more than 2 DJ, or it's a tourist trap. Alcohol is tolerated, usually sold in Christian-run establishments (but not always), and is more expensive than in France. Count 5 DJ for a local draught beer, 15 DJ for a bottle of local wine or arak.

The sale of alcohol is forbidden to minors. The legal age of majority is 18. Although the sale of alcohol is authorized in the country, it is not widespread. Few establishments serve alcohol, apart from luxury hotels, restaurants and bars for tourists.

Alcohol consumption is more or less taboo in Jordan. Alcohol is sold in specialized wine shops, generally located in neighborhoods where the population is Christian. It's frowned upon to appear drunk in public. One glass is fine...

With the exception of chic restaurants catering to a certain bourgeoisie with Western mores, establishments serving alcohol in Jordan are hardly suitable for children.

Some bars and cafés prohibit smoking inside their premises, but not hookahs... go figure! Most bars and cafés have a terrace, if not an outdoor area, in which case smoking is permitted. If in doubt, ask the waiter.

Jordan is a very safe country for tourists. There's no reason to get ripped off when entering or leaving a café.