The Jouan mill, the last syrup-battery mill
For four generations now, in the heights of northern Martinique, in Le Lorrain, Morne Bois, in particular, you'll find the last artisanal battery syrup mill, known in Creole as gwo-siwo, dating back to 1797. The mill is 225 years old. It belongs to the Jouan family, who make battery syrup here every 15 days, preferably on Saturdays. It is sold at fairs and markets, and in specialist stores in Fort-de-France, Lamentin, Diamant, Vauclin, Sainte-Anne, Trois-Îlets, Le François and Rivière-Pilote. The current manager, Daniel Jouan, continues to perpetuate an ancestral know-how: the artisanal production of battery syrup. Like his ancestors, he cuts the cane to be crushed by the large cylinders of the 18th-century mill. The thatched roof has since been replaced by sheet metal, which now houses the three rotors surrounded by a removable table that is closed when the cast-iron wheels are running. The machine is supplied with pre-washed cane, which is placed between the grinders. Aided for a long time by oxen, and then by his faithful mule Chabine, who has since left to join the other side of life, a tractor has taken over and now turns the rotating cylinders. 4 tonnes of cane yields 100 to 120 liters of syrup.
The manufacture of battery syrup
In the old days, the cane had to be beaten and twisted to extract the juice, also known as vesou, or vizou in Creole, which, given the gwo-siwo, is very liquid. Before being ground in the mill, the cane is washed the day before to rid it of all impurities, and it is also important that the cut cane spend 2 or 3 days in the air, to reduce its water content.
The choice of wood for cooking is very important (India wood, campêche or soap wood...) wood that burns for a long time, because everything has to be done in one day, as the cane juice ferments quickly. We work as long as we have juice. The juice extracted from the cane is cooked for a long time over a wood fire in a vat above an artisanal hearth that is carefully controlled to avoid boiling too quickly and to allow impurities to rise to the surface. These are removed with a skimmer.
The heat is increased to boil the juice, which clears and evaporates for three or four hours, until it becomes a thick syrup.
The color, smell and elasticity of the syrup are what indicate its readiness. The syrup is removed from the vat and allowed to cool to room temperature before bottling.
The stages are as follows:
Grinding: the cylinders grind the cane.
Draining: the juice returns to the purgerie, where the syrup is left to drain.
Cleaning: the bagasse (waste) is removed and used as fertilizer for the Creole garden or as fuel.
Condensation: in the purgerie, three boilers (the large one, the clean one and the battery) condense the liquid into syrup. The latter gave its name to the syrup.
Evaporation: the cane juice is concentrated and cooked in 3 cast-iron vats.
Boiling: to be watched, and only the expert will tell if the fire needs to be re-fed with wood.
Ingredients: as in the past, atoumo flowers, courage herbs and houndstooth are added to the boiling liquid.
Draining: an underground gutter allows the syrupy liquid to drain into a small basin that feeds the vats in the building below.
Cooking: approximately 12 hours.
Sieving: the cooked syrup is hand-sieved through a special sieve to remove the last of the cane waste.
Cooling: for 24 hours, the syrup rests and thickens.
Bottled the next day, then delivered to shops and/or market stalls.
The battery syrup and its virtues
With a touch of British flair , battery syrup can be used to accompany sweet and savoury dishes, from morning breakfast to roast meat, not forgetting punch for those who don't take it dry, as well as madou, a classic complement and energy drink.
The nutritional richness of battery syrup gives it many virtues. It contains calcium and sucrose. It is very rich in minerals and trace elements. It contains iron, copper and magnesium. As a result, it is said to have skin-care qualities, and to help combat anemia and hair loss.
Other prerogatives of gwo-siwo
Some people like to replace sugar with battery syrup, which they prefer in their punch, tea and even certain juices. It is even claimed that battery syrup is used in the production of aged rum, but the secret of its manufacture is so closely guarded that no one can confirm it. It is certain, however, that it is used to make cakes, sweet pâtés, caramels and coconut bars, and nougat with pistachios or cashew nuts.
Cautionary note
Syrup batterie is one of the pleasures Martiniquais still indulge in, but it's also part of an endangered resource that must be preserved if we are to enjoy authentic, high-quality syrup batterie. The current players in the field of artisanal syrup are getting on in years, there are fewer and fewer of them, and the youngsters are hardly motivated, which means that the future looks very uncertain if someone doesn't come to the rescue of this heritage.
