From the airport to the city centre Montenegro
Two international airports welcome flights. There is Podgorica with an airport 7 km from the city center. Count 8 € for a flight. Secondly, Tivat is ideally located in the middle of the tourist coast.
A third solution is offered to you: the airport of Dubrovnik is located only 60 km from Budva.
The plane is the ideal way to come to Montenegro.
Most major European capitals are connected to Montenegro. It is risky to name some airlines. There are direct flights from Paris and Lyon to Dubrovnik for less than €70.
Air Serbia has two daily flights from Paris to Belgrade. From there, there are connections to Podgorica and Tivat. The company is exploding at the moment, service and punctuality are a must. On the other hand, expensive tickets.
Air Montenegro offers direct flights to Podgorica. Departure from Roissy-Charles de Gaulle four times a week between May and October, Nantes and Lyon once a week. Border residents will appreciate the three flights per week from Zurich and Frankfurt.
From major French airports (Lyon, Nice, Toulouse...), you can fly to Montenegro with Lufthansa, Swiss Air or Alitalia.
Arrival by train Montenegro
If you are nostalgic for the Orient-Express, this trip is for you! From Paris, you will have made two transfers before arriving in Belgrade, Serbia. From there, you will take the mythical Belgrade-Bar line, which for a long time was the line of the students who were seasick (night in a sleeper train or 12 hours of tortillard). Although slow, this mode of travel is a tourist attraction in itself. The line winds through the mountains, offering often breathtaking views of some of the country's landscapes. But with the help of Russia and China, this line is gradually being modernized. Other cities served on Montenegrin territory are Bar, Sutomore, Podgorica, Kolašin, Mojkovac and Bijelo Polje, as well as Danilovgrad and Nikšić. The Montenegrin Railways website is in English. Fares and timetables at www.zcg-prevoz.me.
Arrival by boat Montenegro
From the south of Italy, you will arrive in Bar. The country has recently introduced ferries that frequently operate between Bar-Ancona-Bar and Bar-Bari-Bar. The following website gives timetables and prices: www.montenegrolines.net
Alternatively, you can rent boats by the day from marinas or travel agencies to reach the many isolated beaches that are not accessible by car or two-wheeler. Finally, you will fall under the spell of these alert touts, skilled enough to take you from the shore to wherever you want. Don't be afraid to take these small boats, just agree on the price from the beginning: for example, a round trip from Perast to the island of Gospa od Škrpelja costs 5 € per person.
Public transport Montenegro
Buses and minibuses are definitely the most economical way to get around the country on a budget. All the cities of the country are served daily and the prices of the tickets are ridiculous. Please note, however, that public transport is quite uncomfortable and often crowded: it is often impossible to find a seat. It is therefore sometimes preferable to travel on foot for very short distances in the city. Outside of the major cities, it is not always easy to find the stops and schedules. Another advantage of this mode of travel is that bus stations are usually located in the city center, unlike train stations, which are usually located on the outskirts. Except in Podgorica, where tickets can be purchased at the ticket office, you can buy your ticket directly from the driver at the beginning or end of the trip. For example, a one-way ticket from Podgorica to Cetinje costs between €3.50 and €4.50 and a one-way ticket from Podgorica to Kolašin costs between €5 and €7 (low season/high season). Websites translated into English where you can check timetables and fares and even buy your tickets online with your credit card: www.getbybus.com, www.busticket4.me.
With a driver Montenegro
Cabs are fast and helpful, but expensive, considering the relatively modest distances. A trip in Podgorica quickly reaches 10 €; count from the capital 35 € for Cetinje and 50 for Budva. Choose companies that are well established and always ask for the price in advance (how much = koliko). Some VTC companies are entering the market and Uber is also present, but as their rates are similar to those of cabs, the interest is less than in France.
By car Montenegro
Montenegro has become a paradise for tourists in search of a pleasant vacation and who want to travel freely by car. Competition between local rental agencies and international brands, present in town centers and many hotels, means that prices are often affordable. Two tactics are available: either book three months in advance on online sites (e.g. Carigami) with no cancellation fees, or wait until the last moment to make your choice in the low season: at Podgorica airport, more than a dozen agencies have their own counters, and you'll easily be able to rent a small C2 or a 4 x 4 even at the last minute (remember to put them in competition with each other, they're side by side and they're used to it!).
International agencies are located all over the country, but more so in Podgorica, Budva, Bar and Herceg Novi. Serious on the whole, local agencies generally offer the same guarantees as international companies. It should be noted, however, that not all accept Visa payment cards. As far as prices are concerned, they are fairly similar to those in France, and always on a sliding scale for rentals of more than two days. For summer rentals, it's essential to book by e-mail or telephone at least two weeks in advance, as there are now many tourists in the country, unlike car rental companies.
In the southern half of the country, all roads on the coast and those linking the coast to road junctions on the heights (Podgorica, Nikšić, Vilusi) are recently rebuilt national roads, often with double-lane sections. Since 2017, the Montenegrin authorities have undertaken a gigantic project to link the country to Serbia and thus to the whole of Central Europe. This concerns the freeway that runs from Bar on the coast to Boljare in the north (border with Serbia). 40 km have already been built, between the capital Podgorica and the town of Mateševo. The date for completion of the remaining hundred kilometers is... definitely unknown.
The national roads are the equivalent of good secondary roads and, contrary to what you might think, they're not in such bad shape. In short, a "normal" car is more than sufficient for most destinations. The two main dangers on the Montenegrin road network are stray animals (cows, sheep, goats), which are numerous on the smaller roads, and falling rocks. The latter are particularly frequent when the snow melts or after rain, and affect a large part of the road network in the interior and north of the country.
The secondary network. If you want to explore the remote corners of the country, a four-wheel drive vehicle may be necessary, as the secondary network is often very degraded, sometimes not even tarred at all. But a real effort is being made and many small roads have recently been resurfaced. You should also be aware that in winter, these secondary roads are often covered in snow, which can make driving difficult for those not used to such conditions. From November 15 to March 15, snow tires are compulsory. Another "danger" of the secondary network is the lack of signage. On exposed roads, you need to be particularly vigilant for falling rocks, which are frequent. It's very easy to get lost in remote areas. A good sense of direction is essential, as there are no road maps showing the country's secondary roads. A compass is therefore essential. The north of the country is spared from light pollution. You can easily find your way by the stars.
Driving. Most roads are on high ground, either on the central plain or on the mountain ranges. But a real effort has been made to renovate the road network, which is generally in good condition. On the other hand, radar controls are frequent, and as distances are short, you'll come across numerous checks by the gendarmerie. So adopt the Montenegrin way of driving, which, true to its character, is rather slow and cautious. Especially as the speed limit on the network between two towns is 80 km/h, with occasional stretches at 60 km/h maximum. Add trucks to the mix, and you'll understand that it's sometimes better to be patient. In towns and villages, especially in the interior, it's a different kettle of fish, and it's not uncommon to hear tires squealing before the green light or in a central square, just to show off! Today, the reasons for some drivers' sporty driving are certainly a little more prosaic, but the situation has not changed. In these circumstances, and given the rugged terrain, which doesn't forgive mistakes, you should always keep your distance from other vehicles and adopt a "strolling" pace. This is all the more advisable as potholes and other obstacles dotting the asphalt are never signposted, and unpleasant surprises are not uncommon around bends!
Legislation. In Montenegro, as in the rest of continental Europe, traffic drives on the right. Speed limits are 80 km/h on main roads and 40 km/h in built-up areas. The permitted blood-alcohol level is 0.5 g/l, and the use of low-beam headlights is compulsory, day and night. Police checks on the roads are very frequent, and fines for exceeding the speed limit or failing to switch on the dipped headlights during the day are frequent.
The borders. As you can see, Montenegro is a small country. And a small country means neighbors and borders. On your trip to Montenegro, you'll probably even land in a third country before reaching your final destination. Some countries are in the European Union, others in NATO, and others in nothing... One thing's for sure, customs officers in the Balkans love to stamp passports!
In general, border crossings are best in the morning, around 8am. After that, you'll need to be patient. You may have to wait up to two hours. The countries in question (usually Croatia and Montenegro) have a maximum of one or two customs officers. Whether it's a question of zeal or provocation towards the neighboring country... No one knows why nothing changes, and nothing is about to change.
Finally, as far as Montenegro is concerned, once again, beware. Montenegrins regard tourists as a source of income. You'll feel it all along the Adriatic coast. As you can imagine, you still have to pay. In the past, in openly communist countries, registration was required for locals and foreigners if they slept in an apartment. By way of comparison, in the USSR, a local couldn't sleep in a hotel in his current city. In Yugoslavia, things were more flexible. For foreigners, the owner had to be registered as a sponsor. There were two reasons for this. Is the foreigner caught spying? The local sponsor will be incriminated as much as the foreigner. Or even more, because the local cannot be a bargaining chip. Then, like any country with a heavy administration, the heavier you make it, the more people you have working for you in return for a small monthly income. The aim is always to have a base acquired by salary during elections. Today, the system is the same, but in Montenegro you have to pay for registration. Customs officers will ask you for the paper stamped by the police. The owner of the apartment is responsible for registration. Hotels should also do this, but apart from a few in the north of the country, nobody does.
Here's what you need to have with you. A piece of paper containing :
REGISTRATION OF STAY/PRIJAVA BORAVAK
SÉJOUR TAX PAYEMENT SLIP NUMBER
Crossing a border and being asked for a piece of paper you don't have? No one knows what might happen... It's also impossible to know whether you have to pay the fine on the spot or go back to the police in the town where you live. That's the little power of the customs officer. What's more, when you're in a hotel, you'll have to pay the city tax, which is yet another tax on the traveller.
Now, let's take a look at a few border crossings:
- Croatia (Granični prijelaz Karasovići) and Montenegro (Debeli Brijeg).
Lots of waiting. You're entering/exiting the Schengen area. Customs officers go to great lengths to prove that they are the best. The Croatian authorities are experts at this, as are Serbia, but less so Bosnia-Herzegovina.
- Bosnia (Granični prijelaz Zupci) and Montenegro (Sitnica).
Always bustling with life. Mornings are best. Klobuk is preferable as customs is larger.
- Bosnia (Granični prijelaz Klobuk) and Montenegro (Granični prelaz Ilino Brdo).
Always bustling with life. Mornings are best.
- Bosnia (Granični prijelaz Hum) and Montenegro (Granični prijelaz Šćepan polje).
Very bumpy road during the 20 km start/finish in Bosnia. To be avoided in busy periods.
Let yourself be tempted by a viewpoint. The border post marks the area of the three rivers Drina, Piva and Tara.
- Serbia (Gostun) and Montenegro (Granični Prijelaz Dobrakovo).
Always bustling with life. Choose mornings or nights.
Albania. You must enter the country with your vehicle's green card. Customs officers will let you in without checking whether you have this green card. If you don't have it, you'll have a problem when you leave the country, as they'll check. You'll have to pay a fine in cash and local currency..
- Albania (Hani i Hotit Bozhaj) and Montenegro (Granični prijelaz Božaj). To be preferred. Clean and professional.
- Albania (Muriqan) and Montenegro (Sukobin). Dirty and chaotic, to be avoided.
Tourist traps Montenegro
There are many cabs on the streets of the country's main cities. However, it should be noted that, with few exceptions, there are more and more companies with taximeters and radio cabs. The other private companies are generally not equipped with meters and the drivers often take advantage of this to charge tourists a high price. In short, it is essential to negotiate the price of the trip before getting on board. In general, the advertised price should be divided by three. Private cabs with taximeters and radiotaxis connect their meters when you get into the car and not before. Paradoxically, cabs in the capital are cheaper than in other cities (0.90 € per kilometer).
